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  1. #1
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    K20A Turbo Pro’s and con’s question

    Well people

    Yall new it wouldn't be long before I started asking questions about boosting my EP3 hahah

    My question relates to the oil return line..

    Now on a K20A the sump hole and bolt are directly below manifold making it a great option for the return line instead of going to the huge trouble of removing the pan and welding on a new one...

    Pro’s and con’s of doing this?

    In fact the GRRedy kit uses this method but not many others do, why not?
    Last edited by Lukezen27; 16-11-2010 at 06:31 PM.
    161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
    EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO

    13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001

  2. #2
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    Huge trouble removing the pan? Is it harder than a B series? Cause B series is easy as.

    Quite simple rule. As long as the drain point on the turbo is higher than the level of oil in the sump pan it will drain fine, even if the point of entry to the sump is below oil level, in this case the sump plug.
    Deano.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by DLO01 View Post
    Huge trouble removing the pan? Is it harder than a B series? Cause B series is easy as.

    Quite simple rule. As long as the drain point on the turbo is higher than the level of oil in the sump pan it will drain fine, even if the point of entry to the sump is below oil level, in this case the sump plug.
    Hey Deano

    I could remove my B with my eye's closed

    With the EP3 you need to drop the whole sub-frame

    And yeah is seems quite simple and should work fine but all the build posts on EP3 they're removed and welded and new one
    Last edited by Lukezen27; 16-11-2010 at 07:39 PM.
    161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
    EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO

    13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001

  4. #4
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    remove it and weld on higher than the oil line, lower could cause a backup of pressure and oil and kill the turbo espically a ball bearing on very quickly
    WOULD YOU LIKE SOME FRONT BAR WITH YOUR FRONT MOUNT

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lukezen27 View Post
    Well people

    Yall new it wouldn't be long before I started asking questions about boosting my EP3 hahah
    All I can say is 'Ya must have a good paying job!'.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by lookingforboost View Post
    remove it and weld on higher than the oil line, lower could cause a backup of pressure and oil and kill the turbo espically a ball bearing on very quickly
    Seems to work fine for the GRRedy kit Ryan

    Quote Originally Posted by beeza View Post
    All I can say is 'Ya must have a good paying job!'.
    Nope just a folklift driver but i'm good at saving
    161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
    EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO

    13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001

  7. #7
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    i wouldnt use the greddy method....
    it will be worth while stripping the k-sump out and getting it welded, and in the mean time, get a baffle too...

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by IEVAQ8 View Post
    i wouldnt use the greddy method....
    it will be worth while stripping the k-sump out and getting it welded, and in the mean time, get a baffle too...
    But my question is why not use the method?
    161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
    EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO

    13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001

  9. #9
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    When the oil comes out of the turbo through the drain it is all "frothed" up, like the top of a milk shake kind of. This is why the drain tube must be much larger than the oil feed. When oil is in this state it is much less dense than the oil in the pan and if it is returned below the surface level it will have trouble leaving the drain pipe, it will just build up on top of the oil in the pipe. If it is above the oil level it will easily flow out.

    Not the best explanation but that's how i think it works. I can draw a picture in paint maybe if I haven't explained it clearly.

    Luke

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by fat_85_civic View Post
    When the oil comes out of the turbo through the drain it is all "frothed" up, like the top of a milk shake kind of. This is why the drain tube must be much larger than the oil feed. When oil is in this state it is much less dense than the oil in the pan and if it is returned below the surface level it will have trouble leaving the drain pipe, it will just build up on top of the oil in the pipe. If it is above the oil level it will easily flow out.

    Not the best explanation but that's how i think it works. I can draw a picture in paint maybe if I haven't explained it clearly.

    Luke
    I completely understand how gravity works

    The oil in the return line will stay at he same level as the oil pan level but should keep flowing without a problem using -10 with a huge hose

    I'm seriously thinks of using this method as no one has shown me any real reason not to

    Though the frothed example is the closest so far
    Last edited by Lukezen27; 17-11-2010 at 08:37 PM.
    161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA
    EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO

    13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lukezen27 View Post
    Nope just a folklift driver but i'm good at saving
    That's the trick!

    Mi-goreng Noodles FTW!!! LOL

    GO HARD LUKEY!!!!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Lukezen27 View Post
    But my question is why not use the method?
    the common sense things, says how can u return oil or any liquid into something (oil pan) that already has oil in it....
    especially when trying to return it into the bulk of it, regardless wat greddy or anyone else uses, the oil return needs to be as high as possible in the sump/pan and above the oil level in the pan ...

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