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  1. #1
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Brisbane QLD
    Car:
    ED-209

    Can anyone explain this wheel alignment report?

    I got a wheel alignment after lowering the car today. The car has been dropped 50mm front and 25mm rear.

    Can anyone explain this wheel alignment report?

    Is it within good limits? I took it to a new place and I wanna make sure they did it right.

    REAR:

    Camber: (left) -1 42' (right) -1 55'
    Individual toe: (left) +2.0mm (right) +2.0mm
    Total toe: +4.0mm
    Geometric Driving Axis: +0 00'

    FRONT:

    Camber (left) -1 33' (right) -2 02'
    Individual toe: (left) +0.3mm (right) +0.4mm
    Total toe: +0.7mm
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  2. #2
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Lil' 4 cylinder
    What adjustments did they made? toe and camber? or just the toe?
    The toe looks fine to me.. I prefer it to be on 0 though.
    Camber is a bit whack.. might need some camber adjustable chuck in there if you got none.

  3. #3
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Brisbane QLD
    Car:
    ED-209
    yea, i kinda thought the camber is a bit crap.

    Unfortunately, I didn't get a before report.

    Report looks overly basic, doesn't it?
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  4. #4
    Camber you cant generally adjust - disregard. Differences
    In degrees per SIDE basis indicate worn bushes bent suspension parts or rims -

    But look at your toe - ask why wasnt it set to as close to 0mm front n rear?
    Its not a race car.

  5. #5
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Brisbane QLD
    Car:
    ED-209
    Quote Originally Posted by bennjamin View Post
    Camber you cant generally adjust - disregard. Differences
    In degrees per SIDE basis indicate worn bushes bent suspension parts or rims -

    But look at your toe - ask why wasnt it set to as close to 0mm front n rear?
    Its not a race car.
    Well, there definitely seems that there is a bit of discrepancy between left and right. Should i get a suspension specialist to inspect the bushes etc..?

    I cannot understand why they did the toe like that. I didn't ask for it. WTF?
    くまくま━━━━━━ヽ( ・(ェ)・ )ノ━━━━━━ !!

  6. #6
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Some cars have toe in as stock. My Euro for example has 0mm toe at the front but +1.0mm toe in on each corner at the rear, giving it +2.0mm total toe in. Your set up that you have now is more for stability but not for steering response. I prefer to have the rear toe at about +1.0mm in each and the front toe at either 0mm or -0.5mm toe out each.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  7. #7
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EP3
    It depends if you actually got a front and rear wheel alignment or just a front only. 2mm toe rear is abit much but shouldn't have much effect on overall performance.

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Mikecivic78 View Post
    REAR:

    Camber: (left) -1 42' (right) -1 55'
    Individual toe: (left) +2.0mm (right) +2.0mm
    Total toe: +4.0mm
    Geometric Driving Axis: +0 00'

    FRONT:

    Camber (left) -1 33' (right) -2 02'
    Individual toe: (left) +0.3mm (right) +0.4mm
    Total toe: +0.7mm
    interesting..
    compare it to mine from last month. It's odd how you have so much toe on the rear too...I'm just lowered 1.5 inches from stock height.

    - Before Alignment:

    Front
    Camber left -1*38' right -1*50'
    Toe left -0.1mm right -2.8mm

    setback -0*09'

    Rear
    Camber left -1*28' right -2*22'
    Toe left -1.5mm right +2.5mm

    - After alignment:

    Front
    Camber left -1*39 right -1*49'
    Toe left +0.7mm right +0.5mm

    setback +0*01'

    Rear

    Camber left -1*25' right -2*21'
    Toe left +2.3mm right +2.3mm

  9. #9
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    QLD
    Car:
    ED Sedan
    the toe adjustment could be maxxed out on the rear. hence why it can't be set to 0mm

  10. #10
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2007
    Location
    Brisbane QLD
    Car:
    ED-209
    Quote Originally Posted by Nepolian View Post
    It depends if you actually got a front and rear wheel alignment or just a front only.
    It was front & rear alignment.

    And thanks for the comparison Migoreng.
    Last edited by Mikecivic78; 26-04-2011 at 06:45 PM.
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  11. #11
    Camber settings look ok for an old car. Tow is even all round so tyre wear should be predictable but not sure why it is positive toe. I like my cars to have a neutral feel so I usually have 0 toe on rear and -0.5 on the front. Remember, the cars wheel alignment changes while driving around corners, bumbers, cambered angles etc. When the car is under load the weight shifts and toe usually straightens out at the front. Also, left and right setting should be different due to the fact that all roads have a slight camber to the left to accomodate for water dispersion when it rains, (this mostly applies to castor though).

  12. #12
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by vtecing View Post
    Camber settings look ok for an old car. Tow is even all round so tyre wear should be predictable but not sure why it is positive toe. I like my cars to have a neutral feel so I usually have 0 toe on rear and -0.5 on the front. Remember, the cars wheel alignment changes while driving around corners, bumbers, cambered angles etc. When the car is under load the weight shifts and toe usually straightens out at the front. Also, left and right setting should be different due to the fact that all roads have a slight camber to the left to accomodate for water dispersion when it rains, (this mostly applies to castor though).
    Alignment places like to put positive toe on the rear of the car.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

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