[CL9] New exhaust system.. your thoughts

[05accordeuro]

Hi Everyone,

Today I decided to take a cruise down to Rob Bliss Exhaust at Geebung. Robby Bliss has been around for a long time and thought he would be the pick to go to.

The guy at the counter was very helpful in regards to deciding what to do with the exhaust. He asked me if I was after a bit of noise, and knowing myself, I jumped at it. He said the best way to go about it, is to basically remove everything after the join (where it splits into two), followed by replacing it with larger tubing, 2 x straight through mufflers and new tips (similar to the tips on it, just shinier )

After talking about it for a little while, I suggested extractors. His reply was plain and simple really, "the extractors on i-VTEC engines are already tuned to perfection, and installing aftermarket extractors would not provide substantial kW gain for the price." (about $540 fitted). He also proceeded to tell me that the reason he advised just to rip off the exhaust from basically the rear axle, is because thats where Honda deaden all the sound, whilst the front half (1/3) of the exhaust is still in perfect condition, performance and construction wise.

Another topic I decided to rise with him was buying a new high-flow cat for it. He only had one objection about this. He explained to me that Honda's tend to have sensors either at the front or the back of the cat. Now he said there is one at the front of the cat, then there won't be any issues, but if there is one at the back of the cat (ie: placed after the cat) then engine lights will start appearing, and this is not something I want to happen.

All in all, for the new mufflers, tips, tubing and fitting, it will cost me $500 fitted. For the new high-flow cat, about $340 fitted.

My question is, has anyone had any MAJOR issues installing aftermarket extractors or a high-flow cat to their '05 accord euro or similar models?

GIVE YOUR THOUGHTS!!!!

[MR_LATE]

"already tuned to perfection" - HOTDAMN!

let us know if u go ahead with this, would like to hear ur car after its done,

my friends lancer vrx did this to his car with the cat and exctractors, and sounds alot deeper without the the high pitched farting noise like those milo tin exhausts,

[white_ep3_civic]

Mine had after market extractors, highflow cat and a cat back exhaust. Never had any problems with engine lights. For that price you might as well get a cat back exhaust. Get 2.5inch cat back, high flow cat and extractors that will open the flow and give you a power increase. Get good extractors and that will give more power.

[tony1234]

Hmmm.I was told(and have done)to fit headers and not to worry about the cat back as most of the gains come from the headers.The cat back is fairly free-flowing and is only a bit restrictive in the upper rev range.There is only minimal gains to be had.With headers get a decent set not those cheap ebay ones.

[dee-y]

Also would like to know how you go, if you decide to get it done there. I myself am also looking at exhaust options (just after a nice sound really lol) cheaper than the usual cat back options

[Nuci]

I have a DC5R, and have fitted a race header and catback to my car. While we have different models, the basic principle is the same, as they are both k-series engines. Youre right in that having a sensor before and after the cat is an issue regarding engine lights. Basically the first sensor (before the cat) takes a reading of exhaust emissions. It is designed to read between a certain range, if it is reading within the set range then you know your engine is running properly (not lean or rich, for example). However youre saying youre keeping your stock header so thats not the issue. The issue is with the second sensor. it is placed either inside or just after the cat. Its job is to make sure the cat is doing its job properly, which is to reduce exhaust emissions. therefore its reading should be lower than what it is at the first sensor. Now, if you put a high flow cat in, your second sensor will be reading higher emissions than normal, as that is the job of a high flow cat, to improve exhaust flow. So your second sensor will be going wtf why am i reading such high emissions all of a sudden, assume your exhaust is damaged, and throw an engine light. I wouldnt be able to tell you whether it will happen or not, all comes down to the exhaust system. If you were to get the hi flow cat and an engine light did appear, it can be fixed. Either with a defouler (google it), a specialised o2 sensor, or an ECU reflash. Hope that clears things up pal.

[Fredoops]

After talking about it for a little while, I suggested extractors. His reply was plain and simple really, "the extractors on i-VTEC engines are already tuned to perfection, and installing aftermarket extractors would not provide substantial kW gain for the price." (about $540 fitted). He also proceeded to tell me that the reason he advised just to rip off the exhaust from basically the rear axle, is because thats where Honda deaden all the sound, whilst the front half (1/3) of the exhaust is still in perfect condition, performance and construction wise.

Huge gains no, but it's an integral part of the I/H/E mod none the less, the K24's 4-1 header is designed for economy and low end torque but not "Tuned to perfection" by any means, otherwise TODA/Weapon R/DC sports/Comptech would be out of business, we are taking about the Euro sedan here, not a Integra type R...

I'm thinking he's probably suggesting XForce headers? Thats the same as OBX they sell on ebay, except OBX is $160 on ebay + Shipping of about $110, hellova lot cheaper than what shops in Australia are charging.

Staying on the topic of Headers, don't forget if you get Intake + Header + Exhaust you'll see some pretty decent gains, each on their own wont give much more power, but add the three together you'll get more than the sum of their parts.

Or if you are adventurous, heres a TRI-Y Race header. People on www.K20A.org had reviewed it and apparently it's good value for money at $500 odd shipped, sounds full on, and they seemed to think itll give serious gains like the hytech headers.

Another topic I decided to rise with him was buying a new high-flow cat for it. He only had one objection about this. He explained to me that Honda's tend to have sensors either at the front or the back of the cat. Now he said there is one at the front of the cat, then there won't be any issues, but if there is one at the back of the cat (ie: placed after the cat) then engine lights will start appearing, and this is not something I want to happen.

Just make sure you get a CAT with integrated CEL eliminator, like this one from Heel'n'toe: http://www.heeltoeauto.com/Fastline-...-pr-64770.html
OR you can just get a Spark Plug / O2 Sensor to eliminate the engine light altogether: http://www.heeltoeauto.com/Fastline-...-pr-64839.html

If you are just looking for the Catback exhaust, hell I've saw some the eBay stuff thats better than the local offerings, You can get a entire catback system for less than $300 from the states, add another $150 or so for shipping, cheap as chips (I think thats one is a copy of the Apexi' WS2, so a deep-ish sound).

I suggest not to buy anything from you local muffler shop until you see whats on offer on heel'n'toe auto lol!

AUD > USD at the moment.. So if you are spending close to $1000 dollars why not spend a little bit more and get the whole shebang and get that extra 20-30 odd kw instead of just getting a pair of fart cannons.

If it helps, before I decided to sell the Euro eventually, I was contemplating on the following mods: CT-E Icebox Intake ($275 shipped), P2R Thermal Intake Manifold Gasket ($45-50), Front Strut Bar ($120 Shipped), Progress rear sway bar (about $230 shipped), Topspeed/DC Sports/OBX Header ($300-500), Ultra Racing Front Lower Arm Brace ($180 odd shipped), and a Catback exhaust system like the eBay one above (appx $450) and a CAT (appx $250 shipped).
But in the end I decided to keep the car as is till I trade it in, so far I've got grounding wires, voltage stabilizer and front strut bar lol...

[dee-y]

If you are just looking for the Catback exhaust, hell I've saw some the eBay stuff thats better than the local offerings, You can get a entire catback system for less than $300 from the states, add another $150 or so for shipping, cheap as chips (I think thats one is a copy of the Apexi' WS2, so a deep-ish sound).

You know much about it Fred? I was actually looking looking at the WS2, but if that ebay one can deliver a similar sound and good enough quality for 450 I can't really say no!
Seems that seller can't ship to Aus, but I'm sure there's other sellers.

[Fredoops]

Message them if they can ship to AU and give you a quote, I brought plenty of things off sellers who don't normally shop to Australia. Including my brake rotors, drilled and slotted, $270 for front and rear shipped to my door.

WS2 is great, but I aint paying $800-900 for that lol

PS: That exhaust is either a copy of the WS2 or Tanabe Super Hyper Medallion.... Either way, it's shiny and cheap. And it cant be worse than DC sport, which is a reputable brand selling not so reputable products lol

[white_ep3_civic]

For that price there are alot of options out there

[Fredoops]

For that price there are alot of options out there

A catback system for less than $500? please enlighten us :-)

[dee-y]

A catback system for less than $500? please enlighten us :-)

Indeed! I'm open to options around 500 bucks.

Already contacted them, he said no lol