Urgent rev hunt issue!

[TbM]

my car doesnt surge on idle, only when its in neutral and i press the accelerator. wont rev past 2k and bounces form 1500-2000RPM

I was just using that example so Vtakk can see what its like, couldnt find a youtube video of it happening while driving/accelerating so figured that was better than nothing.

Have you checked the TPS again yet or the car still in sydney? I usually fix the cause of any CEL first and rule it out as the cause before trying to diagnose a car then if the problem persists i would follow Trism's advice and look at the fuel and ignition system.

Do you still need the procedure to set you idle as per honda specs? let me know what car/engine you have and ill see if ive got the info laying round and ill pm you it if i do.

[Alexplicit]

yeah i do, i got cocky and played with the screw, it was quite soiled, so i cleaned it off, car seems to whistle really loud now :P

[Alexplicit]

UPDATE!

got car back last night, and the problem has almost gone! it revs to 3 grand now, im thinking maybe the launch control button has been played with, going to reset the launch control back to 4k and see how we go, im still spitting tps sensor, and after cleaning iacv valve got that code too?

[Benson]

Make sure your TPS is calibrated properly. You might need to change the TPS

[aggord]

o/

Firstly, you should diagnose the fault instead of trying this and that to see if fixes the problem. A process of allimination is well and good, but, this shouldnt involve fixing problems that dont exist or that others have had(common faults excepted, ofc). If you want to elliminate the posibility of a fault in a particular system, you should isolate and test that system. ie: dont replace a fuel pump to see if fuel preasure was the problem, isolate and test the fuel system.

With EFI cars your first step toward solving the problem should always be, after ensuring the car has it's vital fluids and is in otherwise good order, fault code extraction. Be it via the check engine light flashes method or with a scan tool. Beware: these codes can sometimes be deceptive for a few reasons. i)Some systems will display a fault that the computer thinks is the problem based on the information given to it by sensors, but never the less, the faults displayed in this step should be taken into consideration highly, even if it is with a grain of salt. ii) The fault code/s displayed at this time may related to another or previous problem with the EFI system. If you get a code indicating a fault with , say, a TPS; you should then test the TPS using the correct method. side note on TPS: In my experience, TPS get calibrated at instalation and usually dont need recalibration unless removed and most TPS testing can be done without removal.
.
So, where should you go from here?

Clear the fault codes and run the engine to see if the code is old or is a soft/hard code.

Isolated the system at fault(pos. the ignition system in your case) by eliminating other systems. Ask the questions; is this system doing what it should be doing? Am i getting what i need here from this system and/or component? The first step in this process is to establish if the fault is common to all cylinders or just one. Doing this first will eliminate components/faults either common or uncommon to individual cylinders. For example: You may want to reproduce the fault by increasing engine rpm to a point where the fault presents itself then remove, for a few seconds and one at a time, the injector plugs and, between you and a friend(get him to not have his head under-bonnet with you), determine whether the fault is confined to one cylinder or common to all. If removing one of the plugs dosnt make as much difference as removing the others or makes no difference at all; it's likely to be something wrong with a component specific to that cylinder eg: a spark plug, HT lead, injector and not a coil, coil lead, fuel pump or even a TPS.

Go from there.

Let me know how you go, but, plz post the year, model and engine details of your car and any engine mods it may have. Also, does the fault get worse as engine load is increased(higher gear)?

Gord

[Alexplicit]

hi thanks for the informative post!.

however problem was diagnosed early today, turns out.... here we go...... someone had played with my little red button... (hondata button) they reset my launch control, and somehow managed to get in further and set up a shift light.

but im glad it all happened. cleaned TB, replaced coolant, did somethings i should have done reguardless!!

[Alexplicit]

it would have happened the night of the cruise, as people were looking in my car, guessing some hooligan thought it was cool to play with my shit.

[blastnpast]

it would have happened the night of the cruise, as people were looking in my car, guessing some hooligan thought it was cool to play with my shit.

Lol can't believe they did this to you dude I'm hoping my issue is as simple coz ATM a new ECU is being made up for me -.- I actually haven't checked my hondata unit for a button (s200) is the model

[Alexplicit]

same as mine good luck !! hope u get it sorted!

[blastnpast]

Where did u find this red button bro ?

[Alexplicit]

its the buttom that is for the s200, so u can set your launch control, full throttle shift, rpm limit and shift light.

type into google hondata s200 button or something

[blastnpast]

its the buttom that is for the s200, so u can set your launch control, full throttle shift, rpm limit and shift light.

type into google hondata s200 button or something

Button on the bottom
Of s200 lol this sound crazy man was this button custom made?