Caster adjustment

**vtecing** · 18-07-2011 03:47 PM

was looking at whitelines caster adjustment kit (specifically for eg civic), pretty much looks like a high tensile bolt + lock nut and a heap of shims. Looks like it goes through the front lower control arm and just pushes it forward, which makes sense.

Looks like some you could easily do yourself a lot cheaper. Just wondering if anyone else has done this or what you are using for increased caster

**liberx** · 22-07-2011 11:20 AM

I had this installed a few years back, as the EG I bought came with it. Got a suspension workshop to do it. The measured increase in caster was somewhat disappointing. Whiteline claimed in their EG Civic project sheet using this to get a massive 5 degrees. From memory mine was still less than 1.5. Didn't get a before measurement, so don't know the change it made exactly.

More recently in addition to the whiteline kit (which hasn't had any operational issues BTW) I've installed the Special Projects Motorsport Hardrace UCA with spherical bearings fitted such that it sits the UCA back further, increasing caster. The end result is about 4.5 Deg caster which is working very well. Steering is now firmer with some feedback, and turn in is much more eager.

The combination of both is working well both on and off track.

**bennjamin** · 22-07-2011 11:49 AM

Got the Whiteline kit installed in an old Eg

Did wonders - crisped up turn in and self correcting.

Problem is the whiteline kit added a series of washers and a longer bolt - bringing the lower control arm forward. Using a lower than standard tensile strength bolt plus the obvious pivot point where the washers are lead to premature wear on the lca bushes and ultimately shear the bolt.
Happened to a couple of members on here.

**evil R34** · 26-07-2011 01:14 PM

i just went to a steel supplier bought some 6mm flat bar drilled a hole in it cut it to the right size and put it in the split of the 2 parts of the arm then went and got a longer bolt from a nuts and bolts shop worked perfect car feels heaps better on turn in but sorry i dont hav specs for how much it has changed

**vtecing** · 27-07-2011 12:07 PM

would like to see how much caster it has now. Do you know how much yo had before?

**vtecing** · 27-07-2011 12:17 PM

Also, here is some material for those interested.

1. Observe front tyre wear, road test car, note
owners comments and take the castor readings.

2. Support vehicle with the suspension at normal
ride height and remove the bolts holding the two
piece front lower control arms together marked “A”
& “B” in the fig.A

3. Remove the rear most section of the front lower
control arms. Press out the original captive bolts “B”
and replace them with the Whitelign high tensile
bolts supplied. Note that the Whitelign bolts are of a
slightly smaller diameter and longer to enable the
insertion of the adjustment shims. Ensure that the
bolts are inserted from rear & the nuts are located
at the front, as per illustration.

4. Replace the rear sections and insert the shims
supplied between the two sections of the front lower
control arms to achieve the required castor settings.
Please find a table below which may assist in the
selection of the appropriate shims to use. Using the
original bolt in the inner hole and the Whitelign bolt
together with the nyloc nut in the outer hole, firmly
attach the two sections together. One Whitelign
high tensile shim should be used as a washer under
the head of the replacement bolt and the nyloc nut
respectively.

5. Bounce the front of the vehicle to settle the
suspension, check the camber and castor readings
and then proceed with toe settings to complete
alignment.

Notes:
A. It is recommended that the above procedures are
carried out by a licensed workshop or tradesperson.
B. Only Whitelign high tensile shims should be used
in this kit, do not substitute with washers.