Sump Gasket Problems...

[Super-DA9]

So straight to the point,

How the f*** do you get a sump gasket to seal properly?!

I've been through two new OEM gaskets now trying to get it to seal.

so I've tried using Ultra Copper and I've tried OEM sealant from honda.

I've done everything by the book, the pattern and torque specs. and no matter what I do the bloody rubber piece of s*** distorts and leaks.

Even with less torque then is recommended, and if I back it off to the point where there is no distortion, it just leaks out the bolt holes cause they aren't tight enough.

I'm going in for another attempt with a new gasket on wednesday, this time using a heavy duty sealant (permatex no. 2) on both sides and I'm thinking I'll just do up the bolts enough to squeeze the gasket, then leave it for most of the day to let the sealant begin to vulcanize, then torque it to spec and leave it overnight to fully vulcanize before re-filling it with oil the next day.

any input on this way of going about it? any tips or secrets to getting this bastard to stay shut with no leaks? anyones input is very welcome.

car is a DC2 Vti-R.

thanks guys.

[bennjamin]

Did u tighten in the usual cross cross pattern ?
U should do this and literally finger tighten each one. When all tight just give each one a quick nip up with a 10mm socket and small ratchet or bar etc
I usually smear the lightest thinnest line of liquid gasket and thin in out with my finger before applying the sump with new rubber gasket- never had a leak or a weep

[Super-DA9]

hey bennjamin. yeah I did do the cross pattern, and kept tweaking them bit by bit until up to torque spec. however I will try your suggestion of a slight tweak after finger tightening. quarter turn maybe?

yeah I did the same with the sealant. thanks for your help once again man.

[turtleEK1]

I had this same sought of issue with my old B20. I ended up replacing the oil pan to resolve the leak. My guess was the previous owner of the motor must have used a rattle gun or something and squashed the plate on the underside of the oil pans lip so it didn't keep tension on the gasket. Or the pan was warped.

[dougie_504]

Are you sure the sump isn't warped from age/heat exposure and is thus failing to seal?

Two of my friends with EF8's had to replace their sumps after going through 2-3 brand new gaskets each, they cleaned the old sumps, used gasket sealants etc, nothing worked.

You probably won't notice if it's warped by just looking with your eye, and often they can warp a little and not initially leak because they are sealed well to begin with, but once they start to leak a new gasket won't match properly because the sump isn't mating correctly.

If you fail again and the sump is old, consider it.

[DC2-PWR]

Doesn't sound too good Tim, dw your smart enough to figure it out =)

heres abit of search done for you to get rough cost ideas

B18C P72 oil pan $200


-B16/B18 oil pan rubber gasket $55


good luck bro let us know how you end up fixing it

[Super-DA9]

thanks guys! yeah I considered the warped possibility last time, I placed the pan upside down on a flat surface and it was not rocking back and forth at all, sat nice and flat. you'd think if it was warped it wouldn't sit nice and flush with a level surface, correct?

thanks moiz! I'm ordering a sump gasket from JDM Yard today, if it doesn't work this time I guess I'm gonna have to replace the pan. I guess $200 isn't too bad for a new sump, but hopefully I don't need to go that far

any objections with using sealant on both sides of the gasket?

[bennjamin]

id look at getting a baffled sump - such as a DC2 integra type R sump. It has light baffling which is perhaps a bonus ! Might as well if considering a new item.

[Super-DA9]

yeah if it doesn't work out I can look into that too. will let you know how it goes.

[riruiz_88]

is it advised to use sealant on the block and pan side?

[TODA AU]

From the Honda manual...

14: Tighten bolts and nuts finger tight at six points as shown below.



15: Tighten all bolts and nuts starting from bolt 1 clockwise in three steps.
NOTE: Excessive tightening can cause distortion of the oil pan gasket & oil leakage.

Torque : 12 N.m (1.2kgf.m, 8.7lbs'ft)

There's no requirement for sealant listed in the manual & IMO, no sealant is required.
In fact, I'd go so far as to say it generally makes matters worse.
When I do it, I just make sure the surfaces are spotlessly clean & a new gasket is used.
"Carby Cleaner" or Brake Clean" is your freind & the torque is critical.

Hope that helps.

[Benson]

Are you sure its still leaking from the sump? I had a similar problem happen to me before on my old motor and it turn out to be slight crack in the block (where the oil runs close to the alternator)