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  1. #13
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    John St, Cabramatta
    Car:
    DC5R
    Stock
    For
    Stock. Dc5r. But what kevin said is a very valud point.. Ep3r.. More
    Power, lightergywheel... Best for ur requirement of accerlarationneeds? However its just accerlaaration.. So getting away from lights as fast as possible is a factor fOr u? Op seems likr he is stuck in yhose car racIng games where u can choose a car that is catergorised based on top speed, accerlaration and handling
    Lol

  2. #14
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    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    Melbourne S.E
    Car:
    D15BSwappedEM1.
    whats the shifting like in the EP3R anyways? Looks like its in a awkward spot?
    Originally Posted by charliebrown
    And whoever said my gsi is overpriced... you got NO idea mate. GSis go for 13k+

  3. #15
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    Join Date
    May 2006
    Car:
    1988 Honda Accord
    Quote Originally Posted by r3ckless View Post
    Stock
    For
    Stock. Dc5r. But what kevin said is a very valud point.. Ep3r.. More
    Power, lightergywheel... Best for ur requirement of accerlarationneeds? However its just accerlaaration.. So getting away from lights as fast as possible is a factor fOr u? Op seems likr he is stuck in yhose car racIng games where u can choose a car that is catergorised based on top speed, accerlaration and handling
    Lol
    Haha, possibly.
    Reguardles of what I go, it'll be my 'most powerful cat yet' so i'm sure i'll be happy.

    And yeah, my driving style is quite particular. The locations I drive and live have a billion more times you need to 'traffic weave' or get in front of the pack at the lights for any chance of open road.

    Thats why acceleration is important.

    Hmm,I suppose at that price, if I just got the R, running costs arent that big of a deal since even if i was 'cheap' (which i probably wouldnt do) the knock sensor would just retard the timing.

    oh just thought of the insurance factor... I should probably check that up too.

    Thanks for everyones help so far.

  4. #16
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    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    Western Sydney
    Car:
    CT9A
    For 12k you will definitely not get an clean example R but if your happy with that then thats all good,
    but personally i haven't seen much if not any dc5r's go for anything below 15k unless they're modded so wrong to the point of no return or its just a base trying to pass off as a R.

    As for the performance differences having owned many hondas incl the dc5r there is no way the base has any chance against the type R, lets face it the k20a3 compared to audm k20a2 or jdm k20 is pretty much like a 30-40kw difference if i recall correctly? not to mention the type R are built to be performance cars where the base/luxury is more of a stylist family car with no intention of it's target market actually requiring/caring of the power differences and if you really did i think honda would've assumed/recommended you would get the R lol

    Test drive both and you will understand but judging from your posts you seem more suited for the base/luxury as personally i don't think there's much point these days people who get R's unless you get a clean example R (but be prepared to pay top dollar) and you can actually baby it properly or else it's just going to become one for the 12k resales as you've stated if not lower as it will depreciate heavily over the years of your ownership if it's not babied and seem like an enthusiast's

  5. #17
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    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    835 Beaufort St
    Car:
    hondie 2000
    i gather that you don't race - maybe look at what has more midrange torque?

    oh and i'd recommend the R too - think of the resale value afterward and the idea of owning something more special
    S P A M | W O R K S
    hehe.
    PHC


  6. #18
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    John St, Cabramatta
    Car:
    DC5R
    Perdonally i dtive the type s 4 days a week and during the week i drive my auto camry.. 3.0L 3SGT-E or some shit like that... It has more mid range torque.. So much easier to drice fr accerlaatiob.

  7. #19
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    Join Date
    May 2006
    Car:
    1988 Honda Accord
    Quote Originally Posted by curtis265 View Post
    i gather that you don't race - maybe look at what has more midrange torque?

    oh and i'd recommend the R too - think of the resale value afterward and the idea of owning something more special
    Thats a good point. Not that I intend to sell, but resale ALWAYS needs to be considered.

    and yeah, a certain 'image' comes with owning a TypeR That would be nice. lol.

    Im just pestering the bloke now, seeing why its cheap. I did the checks. its not stolen or anything, i'm trying to get what hes used it for, out of him. (aka hes it been track thrashed constantly).

    We'll see

  8. #20
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    Join Date
    May 2006
    Car:
    1988 Honda Accord
    Quote Originally Posted by muzukashi View Post
    For 12k you will definitely not get an clean example R but if your happy with that then thats all good,
    but personally i haven't seen much if not any dc5r's go for anything below 15k unless they're modded so wrong to the point of no return or its just a base trying to pass off as a R.

    As for the performance differences having owned many hondas incl the dc5r there is no way the base has any chance against the type R, lets face it the k20a3 compared to audm k20a2 or jdm k20 is pretty much like a 30-40kw difference if i recall correctly? not to mention the type R are built to be performance cars where the base/luxury is more of a stylist family car with no intention of it's target market actually requiring/caring of the power differences and if you really did i think honda would've assumed/recommended you would get the R lol

    Test drive both and you will understand but judging from your posts you seem more suited for the base/luxury as personally i don't think there's much point these days people who get R's unless you get a clean example R (but be prepared to pay top dollar) and you can actually baby it properly or else it's just going to become one for the 12k resales as you've stated if not lower as it will depreciate heavily over the years of your ownership if it's not babied and seem like an enthusiast's
    Well said.
    I think its come to price. I know i managed to bargain the TypeR already, If i can bargain the base below 10k, I may still consider it. But yeah.... If i'm gonna change suspension etc. anyway, why not go the R and leave it stock?
    I guess I just worry about whether or not i'm going to 'avoid driving it' when going super long distances due to costs.

    Or is the KM\L figures fairly equal assuming I dont stick the boot in?

  9. #21
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    Jan 2010
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    DC2R
    Quote Originally Posted by Indie View Post
    RSKEbaby is full of shit. I'd disregard almost everything he said. Having said that, it's true that you won't get a very good example of a Type R for the price you stated.

    Personally, from what you say about your driving habits, I don't see why you'd NEED more than the performance that's delivered by the base model. It's no slouch. Will you get the value out of that Type R badge to make up for the extra cost and inconvenience of owning one? In my opinion, if you don't intend to modify or track the car, you probably don't need a Type R. It will be wasted within the speed limits.
    What points have I made that are bullshit, please tell me? ..

  10. #22
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    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    835 Beaufort St
    Car:
    hondie 2000
    Quote Originally Posted by Master_Scythe View Post
    Thats a good point. Not that I intend to sell, but resale ALWAYS needs to be considered.

    and yeah, a certain 'image' comes with owning a TypeR That would be nice. lol.

    Im just pestering the bloke now, seeing why its cheap. I did the checks. its not stolen or anything, i'm trying to get what hes used it for, out of him. (aka hes it been track thrashed constantly).

    We'll see
    Oh and don't forget too.. what you gain on resale value is what you lose on extra insurance and other maintenance costs
    S P A M | W O R K S
    hehe.
    PHC


  11. #23
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    May 2006
    Car:
    1988 Honda Accord
    Quote Originally Posted by curtis265 View Post
    Oh and don't forget too.. what you gain on resale value is what you lose on extra insurance and other maintenance costs
    True.

    And I just did an online quote.

    3rd party insurance is identical either way, and comprehensive is only $100 difference.
    So that hardly matters.

    I guess its a matter of test driving the base model and seeing if its 'enough for me' or if I want 'the real thing'

  12. #24
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    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Location
    Bendigo
    Car:
    370Z/DC5
    Quote Originally Posted by Master_Scythe View Post
    I guess I just worry about whether or not i'm going to 'avoid driving it' when going super long distances due to costs.

    Or is the KM\L figures fairly equal assuming I dont stick the boot in?
    I drove my type s about 620km to eastern vic over the weekend (highway driving but very hilly in places) and I only used about 3 quarters of a 50ltr tank lol thought that was awesome. That was 95 ron btw

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