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Thread: [CL9] Euro Mods

  1. #61
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    Oct 2010
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    '03 Euro [CL9]
    Quote Originally Posted by shmivic View Post
    ^ i have Spoon full-spec damper kit.. So yeah pretty firm.
    I reckon it's a fine balancing act getting it right between understeer and oversteer. IMO I don't think it's possible to acheive completely neutral handling with the euro, IMHO the Euro should understeer slightly at the limit

    Im not a Lotus engineer so...how to do that I am not completely sure.
    2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
    CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars

  2. #62
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    Oct 2004
    Car:
    Blown NHBP CL9
    You can have a car setup to be as close as possible to neutral, but as to how the car reacts is down to the driver.
    V T E C h n i q u e
    Since 2001
    OG Member #3

  3. #63
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    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by Fredoops View Post
    I didnt notice that at all, but then Im on Stock suspension and running lower Psi's up the rear than front.

    did y'all have harder suspension up the rear tho?
    Yup, I've got Tein Flex with its 10kg/mm front and 6kg/mm rear. I wonder what is the stock spring rate.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  4. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fredoops View Post
    I reckon it's a fine balancing act getting it right between understeer and oversteer. IMO I don't think it's possible to acheive completely neutral handling with the euro, IMHO the Euro should understeer slightly at the limit
    Yeah, totally agree that it is a fine balancing act. Like shmivic mentioned, even at the limit, the car reacts to the driver input. So in my case, I am at the limit and the car is actually neutral. But and slight input into the steering wheel actually causes the weight in the rear to shift too much at once for my liking, which makes it difficult to finely control the front wheels without upsetting the car. And then there is the throttle pedal where I can floor the accelerator to cause it to scrub out and understeer or then suddenly lift totally to make the rear even more floaty (which then feels like the limit before oversteer). So for my car's set up, that fine neutral balance is there, but feels like a narrow ledge where it is about to fall off into oversteer or the other way into understeer. I can't change the direction of the car without falling off that edge.

    It also depends on the type of tyres used. I think it is time to head to Wakefield against the feel the new limits of the Euro with my new tyres.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  5. #65
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaronng View Post
    Yup, I've got Tein Flex with its 10kg/mm front and 6kg/mm rear. I wonder what is the stock spring rate.
    Front Spring rate 280 lb./in. times converstion factor of 0.0179 gives you 5kg/mm
    Rear Spring rate 175 lb./in. times converstion factor of 0.0179 gives you 3.13kg/mm

    So your car's pretty much 2x as firm as stock
    2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
    CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars

  6. #66
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fredoops View Post
    Front Spring rate 280 lb./in. times converstion factor of 0.0179 gives you 5kg/mm
    Rear Spring rate 175 lb./in. times converstion factor of 0.0179 gives you 3.13kg/mm

    So your car's pretty much 2x as firm as stock
    Dug through my old posts from years ago and found the same numbers as your calculated ones.

    It is pretty stiff for stock. In fact, the rear of the stock spring is stiffer than Tein S-tech spring.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  7. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by aaronng View Post
    Dug through my old posts from years ago and found the same numbers as your calculated ones.

    It is pretty stiff for stock. In fact, the rear of the stock spring is stiffer than Tein S-tech spring.
    OMG I just noticed, well isnt that interesting!

    Personally I'd get H-Tech.... Lesser drop and firmer rear.

    It's probably stock like tbh
    Last edited by Fredoops; 22-10-2011 at 06:08 PM.
    2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
    CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars

  8. #68
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    Jun 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Accord Euro 03
    Ok so ill keep my car for a year.. Just finished uni so wanna wait till i get ajob then buy something.

  9. #69
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    Mar 2008
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    Car:
    Accord Euro 07
    has anybody dropped cams into the k24? thinking of doing a bit of work to mine

  10. #70
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    Most people who do engine conversions have but they have civics and integras. Wont be much of a gain without a tune though

  11. #71
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    05 EURO CL9
    Quote Originally Posted by rodsta15 View Post
    has anybody dropped cams into the k24? thinking of doing a bit of work to mine
    have a look at this guys build.. maybe you can speak to him about itt..
    http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...ject-teaser***
    OH WERD?!!

  12. #72
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    May 2004
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    Chloe
    With cams, you are moving the peak torque upwards the rpm curve. So your engine has to be able to sustain the higher rpm at a higher torque for longer durations than stock. So dropping cams in alone might give you nice peak power for the dyno, using that peak power frequently will shorten engine life. Hence the reason why people also go for uprated pistons, rods, valve springs, retainers etc.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

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