Got no choice but to use ekk1 as ive got the factory ABS..
oh ok, i read egk1 moves engine bit more to the back, giving bit more room.
i assume by positioning engine bit more back, will also give bit more bonnet room.
Originally Posted by Hybrid Racing's Ultimate K-Swap Guide.pdf
Changing to the EG/DC subframe is NOT required. It is very possible to have the swap running
and working with the stock EK subframe. However, because it requires the engine to sit so far
forward, the space in front of the engine is reduced, and it requires the use of longer axles.
The benefits of the EG/DC subframe are worth the effort. You will be able to run longer intake
manifolds, such as the RBC, RRC, ect. The axles and engine are moved towards the firewall
for better placement and weight distribution.
The EG/DC subframe swap requires the following parts:
• EG/DC subframe
• EG/DC front lower control arms
• EG/DC front compliance arms & bushings
• EG/DC steering rack (manual or power, depending on preference)
• Steering rack u-joint (which joint used depends on the model of car and if power steering was standard]
• EG/DC subframe bolts! (This is very important as the EK uses different bolts and they will not work!)
S P A M | W O R K S
With our special rotational tires, it will allow you to drive very fast. - JK Tyre
oh ok, i read egk1 moves engine bit more to the back, giving bit more room.
i assume by positioning engine bit more back, will also give bit more bonnet room.
thanks bud.
yep ive read this...but im not prepared to go down the subframe path ..(due to $$ restraints) ...
Bookmarks