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  1. #1
    Member roony seems to know what they're on about roony seems to know what they're on about
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Honda Accord Eu

    CL9 - Changing front brake rotors and pads + braided stainless steel brake lines

    Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

    I will also not be commenting on whether the Techna Fit Braided Stainless Steel Brake Lines are ADR approved, it is up to you to do your own research on the matter.

    Also please ensure that you know how to properly secure your car using car stands, and not rely on just jacks. Ty



    Hello again. Here is a DIY on changing the rotors, pads and brake lines (hoses).

    Initally I ordered DBA4000 standard rotors. However after waiting a month and asking to cancel the order DBA sent out the slotted versions for the same price. According to them they may not make the standard versions now. Pads used are REMSA pads. The braided stainless steel brake lines are Techna Fit. Lets Being!

    1 - (after securing the car on stands and having the wheel off)

    Before I started, I made sure I was able to open the screws holding the rotor in place (as I did not have an impact srew driver). I sprayed some WD40, the screws were too easy to open.

    I also checked whether I would be able to open the brake line (where the rubber hose connects to the main line. Again sprayed some WD40).



    I heavily stress on this part, get a 10mm (3/8) flare nut wrench, so that you do not strip the screw head. A flare nut wrench will look like:



    Just slip it over the top and voila. The screw is stuck on well so open with care (well pretty much all the screws I had to open were tough as hell).


    2 - Clamp the brake hose.



    Wasnt sure how strong the clamps were so used two to start with. However 1 is enough. Also to make things easier, keep the car key in the 'on' position (1 turn right) so that you can turn the rotor in and out as required.


    3 - Open the 12 mm nut that connects the brake hose to the caliper



    Be ready to catch brake fluid that leaks out.


    4 - Reset caliper piston

    I decided to reset the caliper piston before, by wedging a flat head screw driver between the piston and the brake pad.

    Do it carefully and get the screw driver all the way through so you push back the piston evenly. I however would not do this again, but would reset it after and use a C clamp. Then again, it wasnt hard to push it back by hand either. Be ready for a gush of brake fluid to come out as the brake hose was disconnected earlier.




    The next step is to open the caliper by removing the 12 mm bolts.


    5 - Remove caliper



    Place a wrench to lock up the caliper pin nut while you open the 12mm bolt on the outside (else it will keep spinning). Take care not to damage the rubber covering the caliper pins.

    Once off just take the brake pads off.


    6 - Remove pad clips (pointed in red)



    Then carefully peel back the rubber housing on the caliper pins (pointed in yellow)


    7 - Take out caliper pins





    Both pins are slightly different. The top is completely round while the bottom has a bit of a cut on the sides. Make sure you put them back properly. Clean them off with brake cleaner and grease them up (do not use petroleum based grease).


    8 - Remove caliper bracket (17mm bolt I believe. I dont remember exactly, someone plz confirm if possible)




    9 - Remove rotor

    Make sure the screws are off. The rotor was as expected stuck on. I banged it in couple times on the rotor hub and it got free. Once off clean things up (with brake cleaner of course)




    10 - Put new rotor on

    Wipe down the surface with brake cleaner as there is some sort of oil layer on it (to prevent from rusting).




    11 - Put caliper bracket on




    12 - Place new brake pads in



    First make sure you put the pad clips back in. One side of the pad comes with a metal strip that sticks out (that warns when the pads are almost worn in). That goes on the inside. I greased up the corners a bit that touch the clips.

    Then put the caliper back on.


    13 - Connect new Braided SS line to caliper



    There is a difference between the front and rear lines. The rear lines have more of a bend at the end (the end which connects to the caliper).



    Connect screw, a washer goes on both sides. Do not tighten too much as you can break the screw. Note, that I havnt disconnected the old brake hose from the main line.


    14 - Connect SS line to the main line



    Loosen the nut a bit. Then pull out the clip that holds it in place. Once you disconnect the line quickly put the new SS line in, as brake fluid will be leaking. Remember to put the clip back in.


    15 - All done




    Remember to bleed the brakes properly. Order is FL, FR, RR, RL. So that was the order I did the brakes.


    Rear Brakes

    Rear brakes have the same procedure. The only main difference is when it comes to reseting the caliper piston. Here is an image taken from a tsx DIY thread (link - http://www.acura-cl.com/forums/showthread.php?t=790452)



    As what is mentioned there, you have to screw it back in clockwise and make sure the plus lines up (as in the picture).


    Hope you all found the DIY helpful. If any issues or things to add please do so, as I am no expert. If images dont show anytime PM me, ill get it running again. Cheers.
    Last edited by roony; 16-04-2012 at 03:37 PM.

  2. #2
    •CRX• represent Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Car:
    CRX+CBR250RR
    Quick q?
    Where did u order the rotors from n how much?$?$
    Is the braided lines ADR approved.
    Doing a Kswap.. want ultra clean wiring.. PM ME.

  3. #3
    Member roony seems to know what they're on about roony seems to know what they're on about
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Honda Accord Eu
    Ordered rotors and pads from GSL rally sport, front rotors were 150$ each. These were for standard DBA4000 (rears I got street series at 50$ each). Slotted version was for 180$ each, but got it for the same price as they had no stock for standard.

  4. #4
    •CRX• represent Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute Snoop_gee has a reputation beyond repute
    Join Date
    Nov 2003
    Car:
    CRX+CBR250RR
    Roony u get a PQ man.
    Very detailed and the pics help out heaps.
    Well done.
    Doing a Kswap.. want ultra clean wiring.. PM ME.

  5. #5
    Newcomer johnny93 is an unknown quantity at this point
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Accord Euro
    Sent you a private message, please reply soon!

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