Page 3 of 5 FirstFirst 12345 LastLast
Results 25 to 36 of 56

Thread: Oil For H22A

  1. #25
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Prelude Si VTEC
    I just leave my car warm up till a quarter temp and drive slow till its properly warm so everything is all warmed up, never thrash it first 5 minutes, dought that will give me engine wear
    also how does it give you fuel wash?

  2. #26
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    835 Beaufort St
    Car:
    hondie 2000
    Quote Originally Posted by H22JET View Post
    I just leave my car warm up till a quarter temp and drive slow till its properly warm so everything is all warmed up, never thrash it first 5 minutes, dought that will give me engine wear
    also how does it give you fuel wash?
    lol, here

    Quote Originally Posted by trism View Post
    I dont think you are understanding how oils work.

    Oil is not like water. It does not run off a surface as soon as you stop circulating it.

    Oils are designed so that they cling to surfaces long after it stops being pumped around. As soon as you crank the motor over, it is turning the oil pump, sending oil around the motor. However, there is still a residual layer of oil left on the bores, and on the pistons. Thats why the oil business is worth billions of dollars, because they have the technology to make this happen.

    So you crank the motor, and it kicks, and instantly, there is oil circulating around the motor, into the main bearings, around the cam journals, and onto the bore.Instantly.

    The reason we have multigrade oils (ie Xw-X) is so that it is thinner when it is cold, allowing it to move around easier. After 30 seconds of running, all of the engines surfaces are sufficiently covered in oil. By sitting there any longer, its causing fuel wash, like i said before, where the excess fuel from the richness of the cold start is scrubbing the oil off the bore, leaving bare metal for the pistons to scrape up against.

    If you were to drive off straight away, the engine is under load, so all of this fuel is burnt, and doesnt wash the oil off the bore.

    Obviously you arent oging to bounce off the rev limiter, but please, please understand that you can drive after 30 seconds of starting the engine, and it will actually be better for the engine then letting it idle for 5 minutes.

    There is a serious difference between letting your car idle to warm up and idling in traffic, the predominant reason being that which i explained earlier, when you start your car up, the engine is in cold start mode, and pumps more fuel in to avoid stalling, which doesnt happen when the car is already warm.
    S P A M | W O R K S
    hehe.
    PHC


  3. #27
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Hunter Valley NSW
    Car:
    lownslowsedan
    Quote Originally Posted by H22JET View Post
    I just leave my car warm up till a quarter temp and drive slow till its properly warm so everything is all warmed up, never thrash it first 5 minutes, dought that will give me engine wear
    also how does it give you fuel wash?
    Its obvious you dont even want to read the information we are giving you in order to help you, so im not even going to bother continuing in this thread.
    to see all of my build, checkout


  4. #28
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Quote Originally Posted by trism View Post
    Its obvious you dont even want to read the information we are giving you in order to help you, so im not even going to bother continuing in this thread.
    just un-friend, problem solved.

  5. #29
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Quote Originally Posted by H22JET View Post
    i must disagree that it cart harm an engine if you let it warm up, if you turn on your engine on a cold morning and just drive off the oil is still cold. You drive and rub metal againt metal in your internals
    so, the oil pump takes 5 minutes to work?

  6. #30
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    Quote Originally Posted by H22JET View Post
    oh i have done research found alot of positive feedbacks about warming your car up, you cannot do any harm in letting it idle its just idling, if your at peak hour traffic or at traffic lights your car is still idling, it may waste more fuel, but seriously small difference, you drive off cold but your internals are still rubbing metal to metal with not enough lubrication off oil, for what i know let your car warm up to a quarter and drive gently for a few minutes, not letting it full warm up tho
    are these articles you read from australia?

  7. #31
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    835 Beaufort St
    Car:
    hondie 2000
    dat no k-swap philosophy
    Quote Originally Posted by ericl33 View Post
    just un-friend, problem solved.
    S P A M | W O R K S
    hehe.
    PHC


  8. #32
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Car:
    83, 85 &86 lude
    can't we all just get along? lol
    1986 JDM DOHC B20A Gold Top Prelude: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...-honda-prelude
    Want JDM? I can source it for you - PM for details

  9. #33
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    South Brissy.
    Car:
    MK6 Golf GTI
    Sorry to Hijack the thread for a second.
    I have a 97 BB6 VTIR Lude with only 127xxxkms. just wondering what Oil should I put in?
    I am tossing up in between Royal Purple 5w30 or Nulon Full synthetic 5/10w40?

    To the OP I recommend with those KM's I wouldnt steer pass nulon 15w40 or even 20w40
    Welcome Abourd

  10. #34
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2012
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Prelude Si VTEC
    My previous owner used Motul Full Synthetic 10w-40
    Autobarn and Superchaep reccomended Pentrite
    I really want to give Nulon a Chance got told great Aussie company with great oil quality that is under rated

  11. #35
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    835 Beaufort St
    Car:
    hondie 2000
    Quote Originally Posted by integragsi96 View Post
    Sorry to Hijack the thread for a second.
    I have a 97 BB6 VTIR Lude with only 127xxxkms. just wondering what Oil should I put in?
    I am tossing up in between Royal Purple 5w30 or Nulon Full synthetic 5/10w40?

    To the OP I recommend with those KM's I wouldnt steer pass nulon 15w40 or even 20w40
    baller! They should be fine unless you're burning already.. cos 5w30's quite thin. i think it's supposed to be 10w30
    S P A M | W O R K S
    hehe.
    PHC


  12. #36
    You don't really need a 5wXX oil, 10w will be fine...start off with a 10w30 which is recommended by Honda...go up to 10w40 only if you want to reduce oil burn...anything thicker will place stress on your engine.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.1.3


Terms and Conditions
Ozhonda.com is in no way affiliated with the Honda motor company or Honda Australia in anyway whatsoever.