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  1. #1
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Western Suburbs Melb
    Car:
    DC5 Type S

    Engine mods for Accord Euro

    Hey guys, Im looking at buying a manual accord euro, 7th gen but the few test drives ive done havent really impressed me in regards to the power they have. Im worried about spending 15k+ and not being happy with the power they have. I love their look and luxury but want it to be able to keep up with/beat my mates cars. Mainly Holdens SV6's/calais that are in the 190kw region.
    So i ask, what mods can be done to make the euro as powerful as these other cars, how much will they cost, and what power gains would I be looking at. I cant turbo/Supercharge it as i am a P plater, however am willing to do everything else.

  2. #2
    Moderator Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    K24, decent potential. 50degree VTC (search this).

  3. #3
    In my opinion an Accord Euro has more power than any P plater would need.
    That being said, there is lots you can do for more power but it may not be worth the money. Why not buy an Integra Type R if you want more speed?

  4. #4
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    I've got a manual Euro and VE Omega auto. Unfortunately it won't be a a very quick car even with mods. After modding, it can keep up with an auto SV6, but at the upper end, the SV6 will pull away. Also, race on the race track, you get 1/4 mile timings which is fun to compare.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  5. #5
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Western Suburbs Melb
    Car:
    DC5 Type S
    I was thinking about the integras but they're a little too old for me,and I love the look of the euro. I'd like t be able to keep up with sv6s at least. Is the euro atleast quicker than the omega stock?

  6. #6
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by abez24 View Post
    I was thinking about the integras but they're a little too old for me,and I love the look of the euro. I'd like t be able to keep up with sv6s at least. Is the euro atleast quicker than the omega stock?
    No, an Omega auto has the advantage of kickdown. Just floor the throttle and off it goes. In addition, the Omega's engine is superior to the Euro, it makes 190kW from 3L (63.3kW/L), whereas the Euro makes 140kW from 2.4L (58.3kW/L). Then even the power to weight ratio is against the Euro, with Commodore having a significantly better 8.52kg/kW compared to the Euro's 9.96 kg/kW for the base model.

    I went from an older VE 3.6L with 175kW to the current VEII 3.0L with 190kW. It was a massive improvement with the newer and smaller engine making peak torque at a low 2400rpm but still maintaining it all the way up to a sky high 6700rpm with 190kW. It is impressive considering that the Euro's peak power is only 100rpm higher and yet we usually consider Honda the king of high revving stock engines. The one thing that an Euro manual has as an advantage is bring fun to drive if you have coilovers and an upgraded rear sway bar. Where the Commodore needs to slow down for corners, the Euro just grips and turns.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  7. #7
    Member Array
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Location
    Melbourne, VIC
    Car:
    06' euro
    For the Euro, headers is the best bolt on mod in terms of power gain (y).. should cost less then 10k to get to 180kw atw, eg5(ozhonda member) has a civic eg with a k24a3 making 180 kw atw iirc

    He mentions his mods in this thread: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...20A-cams/page2
    >>

  8. #8
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2012
    Location
    Western Suburbs Melb
    Car:
    DC5 Type S
    Oh i thought you were talking about the older 175kw models. I hope atleast the euro can beat that. Yea it will be fairly fun, want coilies bad, but theyre gunna be big $$$
    180kw atw is fairly good, but 10k is also big $$.

  9. #9
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    South West Sydney
    Car:
    DC1 Integra. Yh
    All im seeing is that you want to race. IF you want to race keep it on the track cause theres not much point in racing an SS when your not going to win with going V8. Just the simple mods for the Euro like forced induction and maybe upgradable cams but the euro is already built nice. GL OP

  10. #10
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    '03 Euro [CL9]
    Intake/Header/Cat/Exhaust/lightened flywheel or pulley
    + Tune

    Should give you 40-50 odd hp gain at the crank. for about 4k ish....

    Any more than that you're opening the engine. $$$$
    2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
    CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars

  11. #11
    Account Disabled Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2004
    Location
    Garage
    The K24 has alot of potential. Do the basic bolt-ons and get a Hondata Flashpro and you'll have a quick car!

  12. #12
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2010
    Car:
    AccordCB7 Turbo
    Quote Originally Posted by MIKO_OL View Post
    All im seeing is that you want to race. IF you want to race keep it on the track cause theres not much point in racing an SS when your not going to win with going V8. Just the simple mods for the Euro like forced induction and maybe upgradable cams but the euro is already built nice. GL OP
    I'd hardly call 'Forced Induction' a simple mod.
    And it's common knowledge that the greatest achievement in your life is to smoke a V8 Commodore off the lights in a Honda.

    Benson is probably the best advice on this Motor.

    And people make "Cams" out to be some rediculous and expensive mod.. They're not.
    They're excellent Power for Money.

    Do you have a rough budget on what you want to spend though? You said 10k is big $$'s.
    It's not 4x4 status, think of it as "Winter Mode".

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