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  1. #1
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    Jun 2012
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    03 CL9

    Smile 2000 Integra GSI replacements shocks and/or springs (also possibly new wheels)

    Hi everyone, new to the forum. don't have my own Honda, YET. I'm posting this to help a friend out. He has bought a 2000 GSI DC4 and well, its just terrible.

    OK maybe that's a bit harsh. However i have driven in it and have rode in it, and the rear driver's side wheel scrapes when he turns. We're not sure what shock/springs he's turning. My suggestion was to replace the whole set up, not quite sure what would work on a dc4 though. So i was wondering, what would you guys recommend for him?

    Requirements are that the replacement must be cheap as he is on a tight budget. (i'd say $500 or less, is that do-able?!). He will never track the car or drive it (too) hard (it is auto after all) so just something for daily comfort and decent handling. What can you suggest for him?

    Thanks for looking

  2. #2
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    Apr 2012
    Location
    Melbourne, S.E Suburbs
    Car:
    05 DC5S
    Could be because he lowered his car or his wheels are too big so maybe he needs his guards rolled. If it is rolled back and it is still scraping i suggest either go back to stock springs/shocks if you are on a tight budget like you mentioned. Else if you can go coil overs, which i don't suggest you do because
    1. It is ****ing expensive.
    2. You stated you dont plan to track.

    So first check if your guards(fenders) are rolled back. By that i mean the inside of the guards where the wheel hides behind it could be scraping that. IF its not that i would say your friend has super low springs on with some huge ass tyres/wheels so it scrapes. Im no professional just my 2 cents.
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  3. #3
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    Oct 2010
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    crak house
    Car:
    crak whore
    Post pics of ride height? Wheels could be scraping on inner guard liner? How big are rims?

  4. #4
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    thanks for replying guys

    eLtrix - yeah i think it might be the large wheels, the car sits pretty high so i dont think its lowered. His wheels are 17inch(?) if i had to make a guess, dunno how wide they are or offset. Tyres i'll have to check. Haven't taken note if the guards were rolled. i'll check up on that.

    CivicEGSI - i'll try to get pictures, probably post in about a weeks time.

    just a note; the car only scrapes on that ONE corner. its the driver's rear passenger. even if we sit with the heavier guys on the other side, its only that one wheel that scrapes.

  5. #5
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    Oct 2010
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    Sydney
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    Laser,B16EF,DC2
    won't know till you post a pic

  6. #6
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    Apr 2012
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    Melbourne, S.E Suburbs
    Car:
    05 DC5S
    Quote Originally Posted by Friiqtion View Post
    thanks for replying guys

    eLtrix - yeah i think it might be the large wheels, the car sits pretty high so i dont think its lowered. His wheels are 17inch(?) if i had to make a guess, dunno how wide they are or offset. Tyres i'll have to check. Haven't taken note if the guards were rolled. i'll check up on that.

    CivicEGSI - i'll try to get pictures, probably post in about a weeks time.

    just a note; the car only scrapes on that ONE corner. its the driver's rear passenger. even if we sit with the heavier guys on the other side, its only that one wheel that scrapes.
    Its probably because you are running 17s with fat tyres. and your guards arent rolled. But we wont really know until we see some pics.
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  7. #7
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    Jun 2012
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    03 CL9
    hey guys, my friend has got new wheels now (he had a terrible set before, and popped a tyre anyway).
    They are 17 inch, not sure of width or offset still. But the tyres are 205/40/17 (iirc) which is the closest to stock rolling diameter for that wheel size
    The car still scrapes.

    When he got his wheels replaced the mechanic told him he would need coil-overs and a camber kit, as the previous owner who lowered the car had done something that they can't align the wheels properly.
    I'm not quite sure about these things, but i have a feeling that the mechanic is trying the get him to buy stuff.
    My thoughts are that he needs new springs/shocks and a camber correction kit.
    Like, aren't coil-overs really for like track use not for daily driving? and i've got no clue about camber correction

    p.s - Still waiting to take photos of the car.

  8. #8
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    Oct 2010
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    Sydney
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    Integra
    Why isn't your friend doing this research himself? It's not like he's getting you to help because you're an expert, is it.

    Anyway, coilovers are often used on street cars. There are a lot of options, and price is a big factor. $500 will make it pretty tough.

  9. #9
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    Sep 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
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    Kermit K20A
    $500 will only get you as far as purchasing OEM equivalent front and rear struts (eg. Monroe, KYB) but probably wont get them fitted.
    Kermit EGK20A
    Winton: 1:35.08
    Wakefield: 1:08.8

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Indie View Post
    Why isn't your friend doing this research himself? It's not like he's getting you to help because you're an expert, is it.
    well he's not really into cars himself; and i figure, it's a good learning experience for me anyway. Learning from a mate's mistakes is better than learning from your own right?

    So any suggestions on coilovers and the camber correction kit? (what should i be looking for in terms of brands, styles etc?) would used parts be a viable option?

  11. #11
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    Before you ask what coilovers or camber kits, you need to ask yourself or your friend how much are they willing to spend. No point in thinking I want coilovers and front & rear camber kits, but only want to spend $500, as you will not get a quality result and it will end up costing more money in the short to mid term.

    If you are buying brand new, you will be looking at around the $2000 mark for BC coilovers with Hard Race front & rear camber kits (possibly fitted) and the price goes up from there depending on which coilovers you choose to buy. You can obviously pick these up cheaper if you buy second hand, but be careful when buying second hand coilovers, as even tho they may look clean, they could knock once fitted.
    Kermit EGK20A
    Winton: 1:35.08
    Wakefield: 1:08.8

  12. #12
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    Apr 2012
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    If i were your friend, id just buy stock shock and springs. Like i said in my earlier post. Your friend has a low budget, no plans for track and by the sounds of it doesnt know anything considering you are doing all the research and talking on his behalf. Just stick with the oem standard shock and springs and he will be fine. That can set you back 200-300. Not including labor, labor will set you back another 100. Saves you a lot of money if you can do it yourself which isnt that hard, just search a guide.
    Don't waste his money on coil overs IMHO
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