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Honda launching new oils
Book My CU2 Euro in for its 40K service and was told that Honda is launching new oils and the FEO Ultra 5-30 has been discontinued and the replacement is Ultra Leo 0-20 SM. I was given a leaflet was I scan for you info.
Sorry if this already been mentioned
https://www.dropbox.com/s/a6st2tlu5sv0uzb/Oil.pdf
Last edited by Sambo73; 26-01-2013 at 08:19 AM.
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0w20 is a bit too thin for my liking, even if the car's low KM.
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Originally Posted by ChaosMaster
0w20 is a bit too thin for my liking, even if the car's low KM.
My dealer said that is all about saving fuel and the US has been using the oil for a year or so now.
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Too thin IMO. Supply your own oil if you don't want to use it.
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that means honda will be discounting the old sticker/pakaging FEO Ultra tubs of oil to change over to the new.... should be able to get good prices on previous FEO Ultra
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Originally Posted by Sambo73
My dealer said that is all about saving fuel and the US has been using the oil for a year or so now.
US and Aus conditions are different though. In hotter climates, you want a thicker oil. In colder climates, you'll want a thinner oil. 0w20... I'm not even sure if it's written as being recommened in the book or not (I CBF checking), although personally, I would only use it during the US winter, where it snows. Sure, it saves fuel, being thinner means less resistance, but also means more wear.
I guess it's because Honda needs to improve the fuel econ of their cars to meet new regulations, and because they don't have money to invest in improving their engines (most of their current line up is a decade + old), they decided to cheat and use thinner oil. I can only see this hurting them in the long run.
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Actually a thinner oil will reduce wear, especially at cold starts. If you're engine is new and has no oil issues I'd recommend a 0W or 5W to keep it as lubricated as possible when cold starting. For operating temperatures though I reckon 30-40 is a good weight. 20 at operating just seems so thin, especially if your engine isn't very new/healthy you'll probably burn a lot of oil.
I was running 10W-40 semi-synth on my Y1 (yes, 18 years old and original motor I know) and lost about 1.3L over 4,800KMs. Now running a 10W-50 fully synth and will be interested to see how much I get back after my next service. Synth seems to burn out faster than mineral but the synth cold-start protection is allegedly superior to that of a mineral oil with the same viscosity rating.
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The main thing you need to look at other than viscosity is the SAE rating. It is only rated at SM. The latest oils are now rated at SN. Would still recommend the Penrite HPR5 to all Euro owners as it is a higher rated oil and better viscosity for Australian conditions
Kermit EGK20A
Winton: 1:35.08
Wakefield: 1:08.8
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Running Amsoil 0w-20 stops my CU2 from constantly pinging compared to the factory filled oil.
BTW : the outside temperature does not make a difference to ANY oil once the oil is at operating temperature. It only matters when you are starting the engine when its dead cold.
It does not matter if your car is driven in subzero or +50DegC outside temperature. Your radiator, fans and thermostat will maintain the engine temperature at about 90Deg C no matter what the outside ambient temperature is.
The thinner oil will reduce component drag due to better oil flow and reduces heat build up compared to a thicker oil. Therefore if everything else is equal, a thinner oil reduces engine wear.
Unless your engine is kept at redline all the time and is ready for a rebuild then a thicker oil might help. A thicker oil reduces oil flow where it is needed most, which will increase component wear.
A thinner oil at cold start gives better protection than a thicker oil, as most engine wear occur within the first 30-60 seconds when the car is started. The oil is at the bottom of the oil pand and you want the oil to flow to the top of the engine, ie CAMs, bearings etc as quickly as possible to reduce engine wear. Unless your engine is running a dry sump with a separate electric oil pump and has a built-in oil heater, thin is in.
So my experiment a year ago (when I took delivery of my CU2) was proven correct, so Honda Australia must be reading this forum or the Aussie Honda mechanics is just plain lazy. HAHAHA
Here are some facts, The Toyots GT86 is factory filled with Toyota 0w-20, our Prius is filled with 0w-20. Honda is pushing for a 0w-10 for the next generation hybrid.
I use the Amsoil 0w-20 full synthetic as its easier for me to get (no shops Repco, Supercheap, Auto-one carry 0w-20 yet). Some Toyota places carry 0w-20.
Last edited by BigBen; 26-01-2013 at 05:35 PM.
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I've been filling up my CU2 with a Honda full synth 5w-40 as recommended by the dealer. I would love to try a 0w-20 if it meant a smoother response to the redline
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Honda/Acura been using 5w20 and 0w20 for almost 4 years now in the US
It's also Mazda's OEM fill. It's there to reduce fuel consumption, if you dont vtec all day it should be sufficient for the pumping friction reduced CU2 and earth dream engines
I read somewhere it's attributed to a 3-5% fuel consumption reduction.
2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars
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Does the engine feel smoother on the OEM Honda 5w-20 or 0w-20 oils? Might give these a try at the next service.
Damn, maybe not:
HONDA ULTRA LEO SN 0W-20: "Warning: Use this oil only in the models where such is recommended by Honda. Do NOT use this oil in the engines where 5W-20, 5W-30, 5W-40 or 10W-30-rated motor oils are recommended."
http://jaytec-lubricants.com/index.p...roducts_id=272
Last edited by redseven; 27-01-2013 at 02:20 AM.
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