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  1. #1

    DOHC ZC rebuild query

    Hey guys,

    I have a DOHC ZC that I would like to rebuild and boost, so the questions are

    -is the bottom block still usable if its just pressure cleaned? (its been outside for more than a year)

    -where do you buy rebuild kits?

    -what tools are required for a diy job (can it actually be done at home?)


    this will be my first rebuild so any advice would be greatly appreciated

  2. #2
    Moderator Array
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    Apr 2008
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    Melbourne
    Car:
    '90 EF8/'94 EH9
    Get the block inspected, crack tested, bored if necessary, honed etc. Your machinist will tell you if it's usable.



    You can buy rebuild kits on ebay. Items like this VRS kit will help:

    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/HONDA-CRX...#ht_1036wt_905

    And you can get the piston rings from companies like Hastings



    To rebuild at home will require a good set of tools. The cleaning (block, head and internals etc), inspection (all parts), measuring (cylinders, bearings, ring landings etc), and preparation (decking, boring, honing, crack testing, balancing etc) should all be done professionally but if you're prepared to research, take your sweet time and stuff up along the way (inevitable for a first time IMO) then it would be a great project.

    You will need a lot of sockets and wrenches, power tools (drill, compressor/gun etc), screw drivers, valve spring remover, piston ring compressor, cylinder honing drill bit, micrometer, feeler gauge, assembly lube, a proper parts-cleaning setup, etc etc. It can be done but it's best if you have an experienced hand watching over your shoulder I reckon.

  3. #3
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    Car:
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    Oh and an engine stand, engine hoist, jack, jack stands, oil pan etc etc.

    And you will need new piston rings, new bearings, new VRS kit for the head, new water pump, new belts, new fluids, you'll need to replace a lot of old hoses, new clutch is a good idea etc.


    I'd strongly recommend involving a machinist anyway to clean/inspect/prep.

  4. #4
    thanks for the info,

    i have a bit of experience with all parts of a car besides engine internals, so an engine rebuild will be new for me. Ill take your advice about taking the block to a specialist to be inspected

    what do you think of these kits from the US?
    http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Acura-Int...item53e4c49c13

    ive read a few forums and it seems the kit does contain brand named parts.
    and do you know of any workshop manuals specific to the DOHC ZC or equivalent?

    From what you have said, it seems that it is plausible to get the engine bored and honed at home? with the right tools?
    Im in no rush and ill take my time to do research but i would like to do most of the work at home, as i want to use this as my foundation for future builds.

    EDIT: with a could rebuild do you think it would be ok to run low boost (10psi) on stock internals?

  5. #5
    Ozhonda Trader Array
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    Adelaide
    Honestly, don't just start buying parts. Talk to your machinist about the best way to get the results you want. Often machinists have pretty good sources for engine parts themselves and are able to get them at reasonable rates, and if not will tell you what you need in which sizes. For one, you have no idea whether to buy oversized pistons, bearings etc. until you get your gear checked out. Boring and honing is a specialised job and cannot be done accurately at home. The going rate for a rebore and hone here for a four cylinder is around $200, and maybe an extra $150 or so for the machinist to accurately measure the crank, big ends and main tunnel, then clean the crank, rods and block in a chemical tank. Sometimes DIY is just not really worth it and I reckon this is one of those examples.

  6. #6
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    I agree with Sam.

    If you are wanting to build for boost, you need to first work out how much boost you are going to be running vs what static compression will be optimal for your power outputs. All the machining should be done by and engine builder first so that you know if you need to go first or second oversize pistons, oversize bearings etc & if you need to run a thinner or thicker head gasket.

    You then need to think about what you are going to do to your cylinder head. Will you upgrade valve springs, do a port job or run oversize valves?

    This is all before you think about fuel, igntion & turbo systems for your power goals
    Kermit EGK20A
    Winton: 1:35.08
    Wakefield: 1:08.8

  7. #7
    Thanks for the info guys,

    Do you guys know of any machinists in Sydney by any chance? If not I was planning on taking the block down to Rigoli's since he is well known for tuning.

    My power goals are some what around 150kw, and I'm hoping it can be achieved with fairly stock parts.

    Also are the PM7 ecu tuneable? I've read forums with people commonly using turboedit but i assumed it couldnt be done since people have told me that pm7 cant be piggybacked therefore cant be tuned.

  8. #8
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    Turboedit lol.

    Man, this is the 2000's. You swap to OBD1 and get a Hondata S300.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by stndrd View Post
    I agree with Sam.

    If you are wanting to build for boost, you need to first work out how much boost you are going to be running vs what static compression will be optimal for your power outputs. All the machining should be done by and engine builder first so that you know if you need to go first or second oversize pistons, oversize bearings etc & if you need to run a thinner or thicker head gasket.

    You then need to think about what you are going to do to your cylinder head. Will you upgrade valve springs, do a port job or run oversize valves?

    This is all before you think about fuel, igntion & turbo systems for your power goals
    yo josh what if i just wanna rebuild the bottom end so i can run more boost n power? been thinking if i dont end up finding a new car nxt yr im gonna rebuild my bottom end an aim for 200kw@wheels...

    do i aim for standard 75mm piston or try and get the over sized ones 75.5mm?

    Quote Originally Posted by dougie_504 View Post
    Turboedit lol.

    Man, this is the 2000's. You swap to OBD1 and get a Hondata S300.
    If ur in Vic, forget hondata, its a overpriced ecu IMO... Trent does neptune for $950 drive in drive out! BEAT THAT HONDATA LMAO!!!!

    And imo i dont see the point of going for such a expensive chipped ecu for such low power levels as ive demonstrated, an easy 130kw@wheels for safe tune, 140kw@wheels on a more aggressive tune but still withing limits, a piggy back is more than sufficient to allow for safe tune with correct ignition, timing and fuel tuning if ur tuner knows how to work with em

    But yes, OBD0-OBD1 conversion harness is a must, u can pikup a new harness for 100 from USA, not sure why the aussie dealers charge 2-3 times here when u can import it for for a 1/3 the price!
    I <3 BOOST! D16+T SOHC

  10. #10
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    For availability and the option of picking your tuner I suggest Hondata. An extra $200 for a Hondata isn't going to kill any turbo budget.


    And stay 75mm if you can. What's the point of going an extra 0.5mm and a reaping stuff-all extra displacement when you can add more boost instead? Not worth the hassle of buying oversized pistons and rings, boring out the cylinders etc. If you need to go oversized because the cylinders are out of round that's another story. Otherwise don't waste your time. Just get some good strong rods, or even just cryogenically treat them + your pistons.

  11. #11
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    Just stick a Haltech in it and be down with it. Everything you need and more is available with the Haltech when it comes to tuning parameters, from flex fuels to boost options etc.

    If you are going to build the block Barry, you will need to sleeve it and get a good set or forged pistons/rods, along with linishing the crank and running oversize bearings. You may also need to think about bigger intake manifold & throttle body, along with fuel system to meet the needs to achieve 200kw
    Last edited by stndrd; 18-10-2013 at 10:15 PM.
    Kermit EGK20A
    Winton: 1:35.08
    Wakefield: 1:08.8

  12. #12
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    DECF28R & JB627
    Why oversized valves?

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