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Thread: Painting

  1. #1
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    Painting

    Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor ozhomo take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

    Please keep in mind that there are reasons as to why I didn't use urethane...

    1 - I don't have an oven to cure it
    2 - it's almost 3 times the price of acrylics
    3 - It's not friendly to the environment, so you WON'T be able to spray it at home in the garage
    4 - You'll need to invest in proper respirator equipment to use it (the hardeners are very nasty)
    5 - It's definitely NOT amateur friendly
    6 - If you stuff it up, it has to all come off (most of it anyway) and be re-applied, unlike acrylic where you can just rub it back and re-coat it

    I'm sure there will be input from 'pro painters' out there in regards to things I can do in different ways for 'better' results, but this is the way I've done it for years and the way I'll always do it when working with acrylics.

    This is purely for the hobbyist or the noob to have a crack at it themselves, the positives FAR outweigh the negatives when going against urethanes.. The only thing that's not cool about acrylic is that you need to cut it back and polish it after you finish spraying it and once every 6 months or so, keep this in mind.


    Figured I'd put up a DIY since I'm in the process of fixing my roof and hatch on my starlet since it's severely faded!

    This isn't the first time I've resprayed a car but is still the same process just like any other time whether your new to it or not.

    Things you'll need:



    PREPARATION REQUIREMENTS


    5 sheets of 600 grit wet/dry sandpaper
    2 sheets of 800 grit wet/dry sandpaper
    2 sheets of 1000 grit wet/dry sandpaper
    1 sheet 2000 grit wet/dry sandpaper
    Sanding Block (optional)
    Spray bottle with soapy water (can use bucket if you want)



    PAINT

    500ML of your colour matched paint in acrylic (if your car is old, chances are the paint is also going to be old! Fresh paint regardless of paint code will always look different to aged paint, so it's best to have your paint code handy and to get the color matched rather than getting a fresh batch of your code)



    1L acrylic primer (optional)

    1L acrylic clear

    2L Acrylic Thinners

    1L WAX & GREASE REMOVER


    (clear not in picture)





    OTHER MATERIALS

    masking tape
    drop sheets
    newspaper
    Strainers
    Cups
    Stirrers



    Tools:

    Flathead screwdriver
    Phillips head screwdriver
    Long nose pliers
    Circlip Pliers (optional)
    27MM Spanner OR ratchet
    10MM ratchet with extension
    Air Compressor with paint gun (even a cheap supercheap compressor kit will suffice!)


    This is my roof:



    This is my hatch after a quick rub back:



    Please note that this was done on a TOYOTA, but most rear hatch locks are very similar

    REAR LOCK

    If you're working on a hatch, you'll need to remove the rear lock.





    All you need to do is push on the edges of the clip until it just slides right off:





    And now you're left with this:




    Push the lock towards the outside until it gets to this point:




    You now have space and access to the circlip that's holding the lock in to the latch, just push it off with a flathead screwdriver or any other flat tool that you have lying around:





    And it's off!




    Make sure not to lose that washer/seal that sits around the lock!

    REAR WIPER


    Now you want to take the rear wiper off.

    First fold the cap that covers the bolt that holds the wiper arm:





    Undo the nut, (10mm) then retract the arm until it's pointing straight then just turn it clockwise/anticlockwise until it comes off:





    Once it's off, put the washer and nut back on so you don't lose it.

    At this point, you can grab your 27mm spanner or socket and remove the big clip that holds it from the outside:





    Next you want to get behind it and locate the wiper motor (square box with 3 10MM bolts holding it up)




    Once you unbolt them and pull the plug off, you will be left with this:





    Note that I put the 27mm clip back on so I don't lose it.

    SANDING

    So onto the sanding!

    What I personally did was use 600grit WET, which means have a spray bottle handy or a bucket and sand back whatever part your spraying, I think almost everyone on this site would already know how to sand a part. Just make sure the area you're sanding is thoroughly wet and don't overdo it (don't rub it back all the way through to bare metal, which will be hard anyway with 600grit).




    In the following picture, you can see that there is still a bit of shine around the original primer of the car:



    Just remember, you don't want ANY shine left from the previous paint!

    When you get to this point:



    You're pretty much ready to applying your primer. Just make sure you go over any blotchy bits, stroke it with your finger to feel if there are any bumps or jagged bits, if there is, keep sanding that area until it's uniform and smooth like the rest of the panel.

    That picture is 600grit wet followed with a 800grit wet to get rid of all the old clear/colour 'roughed up' ready to 'abosrb' the primer.

    Think of a painted surface like your skin, you have tiny pores which get blocked with oils and what not, using a scrub in the shower opens up your pores again. Same thing applies to painting! You need to open up the 'pores' and get it ready to put paint in them!


    Also remember, the finer grit you go, the smoother the finish will be which means the smoother the paint will go on! If it's roughed up with say 200grit and has lines everywhere, than all of that will show in your final result! Seeing as primer is thick, it's not so important to get a super smooth finish, but it's EXTREMELY important that everything is perfectly smooth before putting on your colour!



    MASKING



    Masking once again, is very simple. Just mask off wherever you don't want paint to be applied.



    Make sure you use some decent masking tape (the cheap stuff usually leaves a sticky residue when you remove it after spraying, and some even lift off whilst spraying which you DON'T want).

    I was having trouble with the rear windscreen seal and I thought of another way of doing it as I didn't want to remove it (I don't have a fresh seal for it, and as you know, once you remove a 20 year old seal, IT'S NOT GOING BACK ON!).

    So I thought of this method:

    Apply tape over the whole seal





    Get a stanley knife or blade and slide it under the seal, being careful not to actually slit the seal, but getting under it instead:



    Once you slide along the seal, you will be left with a clean cut which is usually impossible for corners as tape doesn't like to bend and flex:






    And you're done!



    I ended up removing the other tape and re-doing the whole thing like the method above.


    So your car sanded, taped up and ready for primer!
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  2. #2
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    PRIMER

    BEFORE APPLYING ANY SORT OF PRIMER/PAINT/CLEAR ETC, REMEMBER TO GIVE IT A WIPE DOWN WITH WAX & GREASE REMOVER AND MAKE SURE IT'S COMPLETELY DRY!

    First thing is first, you want to setup your spray gun, here's a video from the guys I buy my paint from, it's explained much better than I could explain it in words:

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Sn1WNis5m8k

    After you setup your air pressure and spray pattern, you're ready to throw on your coats of primer.

    Make sure you always strain your paint after mixing it with thinners and putting it into your gun!



    One of the 'tricks' I use regarding paint thinning is by using a wooden stirrer. After thinning out your paint, if the paint is transparent and running off the stick, than you have too much thinners and will require more paint.

    When it's at the point that the colour of the paint covers the stirrer and is just dripping off it like normal (not like honey) then it's good to go, like so:



    I don't have any pictures of spraying since I documented this all by myself, but if you have a look at the video above, it shows you how to weave the gun with the 50% overlap which I also do.

    This is the result of that:





    When you spray a coat too thick or weave the gun too slowly or have incorrect air pressure, this is what happens:



    I've always found that spraying the roof is the hardest since you have gravity against you at the same time, so you need to adjust and basically figure out your own formula regarding how to get that perfect coat.

    But that's all good, because we're using acrylic and it can easily be rubbed back to have a nice matte and smooth finish anyway.

    I personally done 3 coats of primer, but you can get away with 2 or even 1 if the coat is heavy enough for you to rub back and get it ready for colour.

    For reference, I sprayed the primer at 45psi.


    I applied the same methods to my front and rear bar and my spoiler sine they were seeing signs of aging aswell!

    Before:








    AFTER:






    Good match!




    The metallic pigments in Toyota paint far outweighs those of other makes from the same era (I'm looking at you Honda & Nissan)







    ROOF BEFORE:





    ROOF AFTER:


    And this is the roof straight off the gun which still requires a cut back and polish:




    I've rubbed it back with 2000 grit (sore arm!!!) which revealed the orange peel and 'bumps' on the paint surface:





    After a bit more of sanding with the 2000 grit, I eventually got a nice smooth flat finish ready for the polish:






    Had some time today to get some polishing done.

    I didn't have a polishing product on me and the shops were closed already so I used what I thought would also do the trick, Swirl X by Meguiars:





    Just put a blob like so:




    Distribute it over the section you're going to polish:




    BEFORE & AFTER:





    I think another application of polish will bring out an even greater shine! The 2000 grit strokes have definitely diminished by using the Swirl X though, I guess it kind of works in the same way.

    It's just exciting to have a reflection in the roof again!! :d
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  3. #3
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    I ended up using Menzerna FG500 and finished it off with Menzerna SF4000, result:

    I went from this:



    To this:




    And this was straight off the gun prior to polishing etc:

    Last edited by tiksie; 10-03-2014 at 06:01 AM.
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  4. #4
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    inb4 getfkdm8

    I couldn't retrieve my old DIY thread from when I deleted it when TheSaint was on his JDM D15B high horse moderating adventure.
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  5. #5
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    velly goot mun. thank for informative poast

    yh i loved the old thread, shame its gone. fkn saint m8 u here me
    you're probably asleep right now but I love you and you're the most beautiful girl I met, inside and out. have a good nights sleep and I hope this puts a smile on your face when you wake up.

  6. #6
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    cot daym m8. dat midas touch everything i touch turns to gold o yea
    S P A M | W O R K S
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  7. #7
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    cot daym results so goot dat it ganna put cb paint and panels out of business
    Dc2r and em1 only good if you work at McDonald's, s2k good for order food in McDonald's
    deal with it m8

  8. #8
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    did you clear it after or just sanded it back down and polished it after painting?

  9. #9
    Fukkk dat sum high quality work as integraR said cbautos panel and paint got some competition shiiii

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Giraffe View Post
    did you clear it after or just sanded it back down and polished it after painting?
    ey mun, I cleared it then rubbed it back before polishing it
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by integraR View Post
    cot daym results so goot dat it ganna put cb paint and panels out of business
    m8 never. cbpaint&autos 4eva.

    Platnium Paintings. yiez.

  12. #12
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    Thanks for adding reputation to this user. May you be lucky enough to receive the same Reputation back in turn.

    shame alot of your DIY threads got deleted



    a wealth of information has been lost



    good to see you posting again
    peteju captures, like us on facebook..

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