eg/dc & ek swaybar compatibility

[Darmanin]

Specifically the rear swaybar.

Now from what i understand, Eg and dc are straight swap. However ek will require different endlinks. (not sure about the rest)

That brings me to my question. I picked up what i was told was an em1 swaybar, with endlinks, bushings, d bracket and the bracket which bolts to the subrame.
Here it is bolted up.
by Darmanin10, on Flickr

The subframe bracket was not flat. My ek subframe is, so i added some washers.
by Darmanin10, on Flickr

Now i thought that was a bit weird, maybe em1 subframes have a bump. But after i had to force the endlinks in and the dropped the car they looked like this.
Untitled by Darmanin10, on Flickr
by Darmanin10, on Flickr

So basically i have a feeling these are not ek/em parts. Possibly integra vti-r parts????

The question is though, is it fine to run this? Is it safe? Is it even going to function?? It almost looks like the swaybar is a little too short.

[mugen_ctr]

it is indeed a dc2/eg swaybar, an yes id say its unsafe to use, having that many washers to act as a spacer is down right unsafe , washers are only designed to spread the load, not as act as a spacer

A proper swaybar would bolt up flat to ur sub frame an require no spacers at all

[39erman]

I don't think there is anything wrong with using washers as spaces as long as the bolt is the correct length/grade and the washers are all the same size and not too small.

Just check out the the number of washers that are needed to get 2.5 deg of extra castor on your EG/EK/DC2 from any suspension supplier and these cause no problems at all.

[Darmanin]

My holes on the subframe were a little to close together to bolt straight on. Apparently you need the bracket, like it says in this thread - http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...else-is-needed

Obviously my bracket is an eg/dc, just like the rest of the components in my opinion.

In terms of safety and function im guessing my bracket setup isnt the number one concern. Im more worried about the endlinks. They dont look to be sitting right.

Im going to take it off regardless. Anyone know which swaybar it actually is? Im guessing either eg5 vti or dc2 vtir. Might even be the same thing???

[bennjamin]

endlinks will far outlast your DIY washer solution. It wont last.

Take it off and get a proper EK based swaybar , be it a EK4 or EM1 unit.

Yes , the DC/EG subframe is different to the EK hence the issue you are having.

[39erman]

endlinks will far outlast your DIY washer solution. It wont last.

Take it off and get a proper EK based swaybar , be it a EK4 or EM1 unit.

Yes , the DC/EG sub frame is different to the EK hence the issue you are having.

It is common to mount sway bars spaced from the original U bolt holes in the sub frame. Although the washers may not necessarily look ideal they will last. A solid spacer like steel or better still aluminium will also look good. We do this all the time on our track cars and have no issues.

If the end links are binding replace them with spherical bearing types from say JDM yard, they work great. But if it's a matter of just looks, they do not need to be perfectly straight and level to work. As long as there tightly done up they WILL WORK....

[mocchi]

It is common to mount sway bars spaced from the original U bolt holes in the sub frame. Although the washers may not necessarily look ideal they will last. A solid spacer like steel or better still aluminium will also look good. We do this all the time on our track cars and have no issues.

If the end links are binding replace them with spherical bearing types from say JDM yard, they work great. But if it's a matter of just looks, they do not need to be perfectly straight and level to work. As long as there tightly done up they WILL WORK....

winter is coming

ok

[39erman]

winter is coming

ok

Be wary of the North then,

Ok

[bennjamin]

It is common to mount sway bars spaced from the original U bolt holes in the sub frame. Although the washers may not necessarily look ideal they will last. A solid spacer like steel or better still aluminium will also look good. We do this all the time on our track cars and have no issues.

If the end links are binding replace them with spherical bearing types from say JDM yard, they work great. But if it's a matter of just looks, they do not need to be perfectly straight and level to work. As long as there tightly done up they WILL WORK....

Missing the point. His DIY solution, won't work.
So fix it

[39erman]

Missing the point. His DIY solution, won't work.
So fix it

Hmm,

In my opinion you can make that bar work in that car. Sure the upright links are not ideal so replace them with adjustable rod ends for someone like JDM Yard. The U bolt brackets will work using spacers.

May not be pretty but if done up correctly and the BAR DOES NOT BIND thru suspension travel the IT WILL WORK, assuming you have the necessary skills and tools to do the job.............