Results 1 to 7 of 7
  1. #1
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    The Guy Next Door, Lol.
    Car:
    KSWAPPED STi -R

    Lightbulb Noob Guide to Suspension by a Noob.

    Hi All,

    There's alot of talk of springs/shocks/swaybars/camber/toe/caster/oversteer/understeer/torque steer.
    Will also cover a little on tyres but pretty sure there’s a tread for that somewhere here.
    This tread is about how to maximise these things for your car. More important which characteristics of the vehicle you’re changing.
    This is still a learning experience for me; don’t take anything I say as what’s written on the bible, I have been very wrong on multiple occasions and will make an error in here. If you pick it up. Please be nice, ill edit it and give u credit for it.

    Regards,
    Amant

  2. #2
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    The Guy Next Door, Lol.
    Car:
    KSWAPPED STi -R
    1st up Definitions

    Springs (coils) – As the word basically says, these are helical springs that mechanically absorb energy from the road, these can vary from soft to hard.

    Shocks (dampers) – a Hydraulic piston that absorbs and dissipates vibration, these can vary in many ways to be discussed later.

    Swaybar/Anit Roll Bar – A bar that connects opposite wheels together left/right using rubber mounts and end links, Reduces body roll massively.

    Camber – Angle of the wheel relative to chassis vertically. IE Positive camber – When the bottom of the wheel is closer together than the top, Negative Camber – When the top of the wheel is closer together than the bottom.

    Toe – Direction the front of the tire to be facing better known as leading edge of the tyre. IE Toe In – the tires will be facing inwards inside the guard. Toe Out – tires will be facing outwards from the guard.

    Caster – The angle which the steering will pivot on. Hard to explain this one, basically the point where you’re steering will apply energy to the wheel to turn. Positive caster – if the pivot axis tilted backward of the wheel, If pivot axis is tilted from the front then its negative caster.

    Oversteer – Rear wheels loosing traction 1st. Car turns more sharply than intended.

    Understeer – Front wheels loosing traction 1st. Car turns less sharply than intended.

    Torque Steer – Steering pulls towards one side sharply upon acceleration due to the beast VTEC

    Bump steer – Car has its own mind for a split second when you hit a bump.

  3. #3
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    The Guy Next Door, Lol.
    Car:
    KSWAPPED STi -R
    Okay so we are up to date on the terms that’s gonna be used here. Let’s get into the real reason why I took soo much of my precious time.

    Ride Height –
    There are heaps to be gained by lowering our cars. 1st most is ‘looks’, yes lowering your car will make it attractive. It can also make significant improvement on a cars cornering capability, but going too low will start to affect your suspension travel. I’ve faced bumpsteer in two of my cars for this reason. Always keep in mind how low are you really going. This can be very dangerous for a daily driver or if you lend your car to a feint hearted driver. I won’t even bother with cutting or chopped springs, if anyone ever tells you to do it, give them the finger.

    Spring Rates –
    Increasing Front spring rates – Creates more understeer. Feel the bumps on the road more.
    Increasing Rear spring rates – Creates more oversteer. Feel the bumps on the road more.
    Decreasing Front spring rates – Creates Less understeer. Feel the bumps on the road less.
    Decreasing Rear Spring Rates – Creates Less oversteer. Feel the bumps on the road less.
    Choose your spring rates wisely, as this will affect how ‘harsh’ the ride can get. Me personally for a single guy driving a 2 door coupe rarely making use of the back seats, I can get away stiff springs as I don’t mind trading the harsh ride for less body roll and lowering my cars centre of gravity. Springs will also effect Wheel travel basically the amount of vertical travel from full extension to compression.

  4. #4
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    The Guy Next Door, Lol.
    Car:
    KSWAPPED STi -R
    Sway Bars –
    Increasing Front –Massively More understeer
    Increasing Rear – Massively More oversteer.
    Decreasing Front – Massively Less understeer.
    Decreasing Rear – Massively Less understeer.

    Okay, so this is only my 2cents. Suspension turning can be done 1 million and 1 ways. I like stiff setup, the rears always close to the front in terms of stiffness but never exceeds. I drive a FWD, my issue is understeer. Easiest way I see is introduce more oversteer into the car. This can be very scary for some people.

  5. #5
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    The Guy Next Door, Lol.
    Car:
    KSWAPPED STi -R
    Reserved for more information later, finished work going home now.

  6. #6
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    The Guy Next Door, Lol.
    Car:
    KSWAPPED STi -R
    Reserved for more information later, finished work going home now. bahahahahah new anti spam rule??

  7. #7
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    The Guy Next Door, Lol.
    Car:
    KSWAPPED STi -R
    reserved la

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  
Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v4.1.3


Terms and Conditions
Ozhonda.com is in no way affiliated with the Honda motor company or Honda Australia in anyway whatsoever.