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  1. #1

    Thumbs up 2008 8th Gen Accord 3.5L V6 Auto 100,000km service.

    Hi all,

    Just got our first Honda and shes a 2008 Accord 3.5L V6 Auto Luxury model with 98,000kms.
    She's had all logbook servicing done to date but not the 100,000.

    I've had a read through the logbook at what is required but was hoping i could get some Honda-experience'd help at what i should be looking to do.

    So far i have come up with:
    - Front brake pads
    - Timing belt kit
    - Inspect water pump
    - Iridium spark plugs X 6
    - Penrite HPR5 (To be used where 5w30 is needed) X 5L bottle
    - Penrite Fully synthetic ATF 4L X 2 (flush the gearbox once)
    - Engine oil filter

    Rear brake pads look fine and cannot see any oil leaks in the engine bay or from what ive been able to see under the car. Will have it over my brothers pit at his truck centre when servicing.
    Anything specific to this model of Honda that i should be looking for or should look to replace?

    Would love any advice or comments

    Thanks,
    Glen and his extremely happy partner who now has an Accord and is rubbing it in his face whilst he drives his 3T patrol to work daily.

  2. #2
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    '03 Euro [CL9]
    Quote Originally Posted by shadowchild93 View Post
    Hi all,

    Just got our first Honda and shes a 2008 Accord 3.5L V6 Auto Luxury model with 98,000kms.
    She's had all logbook servicing done to date but not the 100,000.

    I've had a read through the logbook at what is required but was hoping i could get some Honda-experience'd help at what i should be looking to do.

    So far i have come up with:
    - Front brake pads
    - Timing belt kit
    - Inspect water pump
    - Iridium spark plugs X 6
    - Penrite HPR5 (To be used where 5w30 is needed) X 5L bottle
    - Penrite Fully synthetic ATF 4L X 2 (flush the gearbox once)
    - Engine oil filter

    Rear brake pads look fine and cannot see any oil leaks in the engine bay or from what ive been able to see under the car. Will have it over my brothers pit at his truck centre when servicing.
    Anything specific to this model of Honda that i should be looking for or should look to replace?

    Would love any advice or comments

    Thanks,
    Glen and his extremely happy partner who now has an Accord and is rubbing it in his face whilst he drives his 3T patrol to work daily.

    8 litres of atf is good enough for a 2x2 flush not just once since you only get approx 3 litres out each time.

    BTW you should be changing the atf every 40k km or less. Not the 80k stated in some manuals

    Also if I remember correctly there is a transmissionfilter sitting on top somewhere.

    Should be replacing that too.
    2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
    CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars

  3. #3
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    CD5 & GE6
    For the love of god
    Please do not BABY this era of V6's
    The new VCM system (which deactivates the rear bank of cylinders) causing major engine bore damage, requiring a new bottom end
    Keep driving it at different rpms and always make sure the oil is topped up
    You've gone through more accords than I changed underwear this month! - Sugz

    www.OzAccord.net/forum

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Fredoops View Post
    8 litres of atf is good enough for a 2x2 flush not just once since you only get approx 3 litres out each time.

    BTW you should be changing the atf every 40k km or less. Not the 80k stated in some manuals

    Also if I remember correctly there is a transmissionfilter sitting on top somewhere.

    Should be replacing that too.
    Thanks, will keep that in mind about the gearbox quantity of oil. I guess i will have some left over if i grab the 2 X 4L. Will definitely do the ATF swaps quite reguarly but was just not wanting to leave it until 120,000. Thanks for the advice. I had a quick look for a transmission filter but from what i found online, it looks as though the transmission filter for the V6 auto is actually inside the gearbox itself and isnt easy to get out. Might have to do a little more research into it!

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Jasemas View Post
    For the love of god
    Please do not BABY this era of V6's
    The new VCM system (which deactivates the rear bank of cylinders) causing major engine bore damage, requiring a new bottom end
    Keep driving it at different rpms and always make sure the oil is topped up
    Thanks for your reply! Wont be babying it by any means of the word but i wont be thrashing it either. I'm more than happy to keep her revving when warm and more than happy to feel the effects of VTEC! A little quicker than the patrol for sure. I've read that they can use oil so as its quite new with us, i'll check oil levels regularly and make sure it isnt. (or if it is, will top it up accordingly).

    I'm thinking that 5000km oil changes sound like a good idea for this type of motor and we'll either run it on 95 or 98 octane. Should i do the filter every 5 or 10 thousand kms?

    Is there anything i can do to prolong the lift of the motor? I saw there was no way to deactivate the VCM. Is there anything i need to be aware of to keep the motor happy other than regular oil and filter changes and variable revs? (I guess for variable revs, as it is an auto, i could just drive manual with the paddle shifts to get the revs a little higher without having to be foot flat each time?)

  6. #6
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    '03 Euro [CL9]
    Get an oil with a good dose of zinc (zddp). It coats cylinder bores to compensate for the VCM.

    Penrite HPR5 is a good start

    I don't see the need for a 5k oil change interval if a synthetic oil is used. Can probably stretch to 7.5k. Just keep an eye on it.
    Last edited by Fredoops; 04-08-2015 at 11:10 AM.
    2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
    CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars

  7. #7
    Thanks for that information on the oil with zinc! I figured i would go with Penrite HPR5 as it is what Penrite recommends to be used with this motor on their webpage and from what ive been told, Penrite seem to sell quality oils.
    Is Penrite HPR5 what you would recommend to you or would you recommend something else? I can get the HPR5 at a good price through a mate at a local Auto1 so, if this will be great for it, i will use this.

    Previous owner's mechanic was using Castrol Magnatec Professional 15/40 but that seems a bit too thick to me, at least when cold - Hence the reasoning to use the HPR5 from Penrite. If 5k services are better for the motor than 7.5, then i'd prefer to do that but if there would be almost no difference, im open to slightly longer oil changes.

    Does filter every 10k if im servicing every 5k sound good? If i were servicing every 7.5k, would i do a filter each service or every 15k?

  8. #8
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    '03 Euro [CL9]
    Filter every service.

    I use Penrite myself. So it's good

    15w40 is not suitable IMO.
    2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
    CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars

  9. #9
    Thanks! Will grab HPR5 for the motor and do filter each service. Will also grab Penrites ATF fully synth oil for the gearbox! Cheers

  10. #10
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    CD5 & GE6
    Quote Originally Posted by Fredoops View Post
    Filter every service.

    I use Penrite myself. So it's good

    15w40 is not suitable IMO.
    What kind of ****wit uses 15w40 on a new motor

    /sigh

    Damn Aus mechanics and their backwards thinking
    Always with their thick oil *she'll be right mate* mentality
    You've gone through more accords than I changed underwear this month! - Sugz

    www.OzAccord.net/forum

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Jasemas View Post
    What kind of ****wit uses 15w40 on a new motor

    /sigh

    Damn Aus mechanics and their backwards thinking
    Always with their thick oil *she'll be right mate* mentality
    My thoughts exactly! Its not hard to check what oil a motor needs. This was a petrol injection workshop who apparently had won multiple awards. I'll stick with what Penrite recommend and trust myself over mechanic's advice.

  12. #12
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    '03 Euro [CL9]
    You can also try penrite racing 10tenths 5w30 which has a much higher zinc content.
    2003 CL9 5AT *ECU REFLASHED*
    CT-E Icebox|Ralco RZ pulleys|K&N filter|DC Header|250cell Cat|Cusco Tower & H Brace| H.Drive Coilovers | Rays RE30 18x8.5 | S/S Brakelines | Rigid Collars

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