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  1. #1

    Accord Euro manual gearbox problems..

    Hey guys, I got a Honda Accord Euro a few months ago and I have enjoyed ownership of it, however ever since I got these problems have existed.

    - 1st gear hard to get into in idle
    - 2nd gear grinds getting into at high RPMs
    - When idle reverse grinds HARD, unless I shift into third and then choose reverse where it's smooth as.

    I changed my transmission oil today, it came out black but that did not really fix anything.
    Anyone know whats wrong? How can I fix this issue?

    edit: it is a 2006 CL9 accord
    Last edited by yamsbrah; 09-06-2016 at 10:47 PM.

  2. #2
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Sounds like your clutch fluid needs replacement or an air bubble has gotten into your clutch line. Just bleed it through the slave cylinder, which is located in between the intake header and the radiator, below the radiator hose. It is a tight fit for your hand but you'll be able to reach it with a small spanner.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by aaronng View Post
    Sounds like your clutch fluid needs replacement or an air bubble has gotten into your clutch line. Just bleed it through the slave cylinder, which is located in between the intake header and the radiator, below the radiator hose. It is a tight fit for your hand but you'll be able to reach it with a small spanner.
    My car is sitting at 83xxx, would my fluid need to be replaced?
    Also where would the reservoir for the clutch fluid be?
    Last edited by yamsbrah; 10-06-2016 at 04:34 PM.

  4. #4
    Sounds like worn synchros. What oil did you put in? Shouldn't really need fluids at those km but definitely will improve things (specially the clutch fluid)

  5. #5
    Ninja turtle Array
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    Quote Originally Posted by yamsbrah View Post
    My car is sitting at 83xxx, would my fluid need to be replaced?
    Also where would the reservoir for the clutch fluid be?
    Yes, it should be replaced every 40,000 km or so. The reservoir is next to the brake fluid reservoir. It's the smaller one with the gray cap.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  6. #6
    Ninja turtle Array
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    May 2004
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hondarally View Post
    Sounds like worn synchros. What oil did you put in? Shouldn't really need fluids at those km but definitely will improve things (specially the clutch fluid)
    Reverse gear does not have synchros. So if that is crunching, then it is the clutch fluid or a worn clutch cylinder seal. At his low kms, it should be the fluid.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  7. #7
    Member Array
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    Oct 2006
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    P1.5 460F/350R
    yh check clutch fluid m8
    check cheap shit first before jumping to big buks conclusion ok
    S P A M | W O R K S
    With our special rotational tires, it will allow you to drive very fast. - JK Tyre

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by aaronng View Post
    Reverse gear does not have synchros. So if that is crunching, then it is the clutch fluid or a worn clutch cylinder seal. At his low kms, it should be the fluid.
    Correct. No synchros in reverse. Technique here can also be the culprit. I've seen numpties have this problem when there was nothing wrong with the car.
    Fact it's crunching into 2nd at high rpm and the fact that the gearbox oil came out black ( did op drain the right oil?) point to gearbox issues.

    By all means change fluids first to eliminate the cheaper options. Hopefully that's all it is.
    Clutch fluid doesn't have the same hard life brake fluid does. Even if it's never been changed I'd be surprised if it was causing these problems on a stock system. I've seen cars go double that distance on original fluid. Not recommended tho.

  9. #9
    I also should mention that it worsens after long drives, when i start driving early into my trip the gearbox is pretty smooth, what would that mean?

  10. #10
    Ninja turtle Array
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    Quote Originally Posted by yamsbrah View Post
    I also should mention that it worsens after long drives, when i start driving early into my trip the gearbox is pretty smooth, what would that mean?
    Does this still happen after you had changed the transmission fluid? And just to confirm, you changed it with Honda MTF or an equivalent with viscosity 75w80? Regardless of the answer, change your clutch fluid next.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  11. #11
    I probably should of updated on this. I did in fact bleed the clutch fluid and the car is now flawless with it's transmission, however when I do drive it for a bit it does tend to feel more notchy over time, any idea what the problem would be?

  12. #12
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2009
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    CU2 Accord Euro
    Quote Originally Posted by yamsbrah View Post
    I probably should of updated on this. I did in fact bleed the clutch fluid and the car is now flawless with it's transmission, however when I do drive it for a bit it does tend to feel more notchy over time, any idea what the problem would be?
    I've had both the CL9 and the CU2, both in Manual and both have been a bit 'notchy', well, the CU2 is a lot more notchier than the CL9.
    Back to another Accord Euro, Love hate relationship with these cars.

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