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  1. #1
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    EK4 Turbo

    Integra chocking and stalling when accelerating

    Hi all,

    Ive had this issue for months now and have been trying so many things to fix the problem and i just cant find it.
    The car is a bit sporadic with the issue, some days the car will stall and die completely under acceleration and other days i get a few small jerks in low revs, like when pulling out of a roundabout in 3rd.

    I originally thought it was a clutch bearing because i managed to get the car moving if i slipped the clutch, so its got a brand new exedy clutch, billet flywheel and new bearings. Problem still existed after that.

    I then went on to think it might be fuel, got a new filter, walbro fuel pump and cleaned the injectors. Ive checked the injectors resistance and that they still squirt. Also checked there is pressure running through the regulator on the way back to the tank. The regulator doesnt seemed to have failed, there is no fuel in the vacuum pipe.

    I also thought maybe there is a problem with ignition, i got new iridium plugs and checked the leads resistance. I havent checked the dizzy for resistance because i cant get the damn screw off the rotor. But, i think if ignition was a problem i should be getting a check engine light and there is no light what so ever. Ive even checked ECU for codes, not one.

    Also thought that maybe i have a vacuum leak, or exhaust leak. i cant find a vacuum leak (all im doing is checking pipes for cracks or hisses), and the exhaust is fine near the head, no fumes and all flanges are bolted up properly with the right gaskets. If there was a vacuum leak there should be bad idle but theres not, i have had the idle jump low as if it missed a beat, even been that bad that it has stalled in idle from it. But its not what i would expect from a vacuum leak.

    Lastly i have tried to check the batteries ground, the resistance is pretty much 1 between the negative terminal and the body where the wire is attached. Other parts of the body though do show up to over a hundred ohms, but im not sure if thats normal. If it was a ground problem i also would have thought i would notice it on other electrics.

    Really dont know where else to go with this, i just cant find the problem and i dont know what else to look for.
    Maybe the alternator, could that cause the engine to stall?

    Please offer any advice whats so ever if you can, i would really appreciate it. I cant drive the car at the moment because it is back to stalling when accelerating. Although i did drive it today and it didnt stall expect for when in idle and pull the accelerator cable suddenly, kills the engine straight away.
    The car is a 2000 integra type r, with the original b18c7 and no mods, stock stuff everywhere except for the clutch.

  2. #2
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    EK4 Turbo
    Also, if it helps, the problem seem to exist under certain engine load. When idling and i pull the accelerator cable slowly i can rev the engine to red line, if i pull the cable fast it chokes and dies.

  3. #3
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Adelaide Hills
    Car:
    DA9T+Euro
    Ignition control module or Coil in the Dizzy. My bet is on the Coil.
    DA9 LS w/JDM SiR B18C turbo
    Looking for older Honda project car pre-1985


  4. #4
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    EK4 Turbo
    I thought maybe the coil but shouldnt it give a check engine light?

  5. #5
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    www.alibaba.com
    Car:
    porsche boxster
    Agree with mooshie but try an ecu fault scan http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...-ECU-for-j00-!

  6. #6
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    EK4 Turbo
    I have already done a fault scan and got nothing. I tried to use my multi meter on the cap terminals, i got just over 100 volts on a couple of them then it started saying zero. Maybe it completely died as i was testing it because the car wont even start now and 100 volts im pretty sure is low. I would have thought that i should have got some sort of code if the ICM or coil had been dying.

    Thanks for your help, think im going to try replace the whole dizzy

  7. #7
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    hehe
    Car:
    hehe
    Be careful with aftermarket dizzy, they kinda gammin, best to find oem known working dizzy, or new oem dizzy
    Last edited by renzokukenj; Today at 12:34 AM. Reason: hehe

  8. #8
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Out in Nature
    Car:
    91 eg5 b16a
    A faulty icm or coil will throw a code but not if its on its way out and is sending an incorrect signal.All sensors are only 1 volt and are sensitive. .

    Sounds like you have found the problem.

    An intermittent intake manifold gasket leak can occur under acceleration before the car warms up and the gasket heats up and expands fills the gap.Same for a pcv valve.

    A miss aligned crankshaft fluctuation sensor can cause an intermittent miss fire under load too.They need to have the proper 'air gap'.

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=ws59zXvr1SM

    https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=zMok2y05jNE

  9. #9
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    EK4 Turbo
    no code came up even though the dizzy seems to be dead. Its not sparking when trying to turn it over so im pretty sure the coil or ICM must be done. Im going to try get an oem dizzy from honda. I will let you know if it fixes the problem.

  10. #10
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Out in Nature
    Car:
    91 eg5 b16a
    That will be expensive man..cheaper to run a msd cap and external coil because it's always the cap,normally has a crack,won't be the back part.Then replace replace icm then rotor if problem persists.

  11. #11
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    EK4 Turbo
    I had a look at the cap, I cant find a crack in it but the terminals have a fair bit of carbon on them. I really need to figure out how to get the rotor off, the screw holding it on has rounded.
    I have a feeling the distributor is aftermarket from the previous owner, do you know how to tell if its genuine or not?

  12. #12
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    Out in Nature
    Car:
    91 eg5 b16a
    A crack can be near impossible to see . Just use a flathead screwdriver to remove the carbon on the 4 points. Sand the rotor egde with fine sand paper.
    My OEM d16y4 dizzy has HITACHI on it,not sure if they did yours but more than likely.
    Post a pic of rotor screw.

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