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  1. #13
    Hi Tony99, On the oil type to use you can go genuine oil which will definitely do the job, after market oils are good too - the grade of oil should be listed in the owners handbook if the car came with that. Other than that most of the retailers will have a look up chart where you can confirm the type of oil brand and grade is best. Bear in mind that you want to make sure you do see a listing for your specific model - assume the DC5R has a LSD factory fitted. I've used Castrol VMX 80 successfully in a LSD equiped fwd honda gearbox.
    The metal wearing parts (very very fine particle sizes) will drain out as you remove the old oil but make sure you give the drain plug a really good clean as these are magnetic at times and will hold small bits of debris to ensure that they don't cause premature wear in the 'box. Depending on the breather location on the gearbox you shouldn't really have any sediment/gunk in there unless the box has been submerged for some strange reason....
    With ambient temperature this is normally a concern at the extreme ends of the range - eg very negative Celsius and very high celsius, normal operating temperatures ranging from -5 to +45 you'll find the standard stuff works well. If you're operating at the top end of the temperature range consistently then more frequent oil changes would be a good preventative idea. In very extreme conditions you'd look to fit an oil cooler however these are more inclined to be needed in automatics under heavy load like towing applications.

  2. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by 1wht86teg View Post
    Hi Tony99, On the oil type to use you can go genuine oil which will definitely do the job, after market oils are good too - the grade of oil should be listed in the owners handbook if the car came with that. Other than that most of the retailers will have a look up chart where you can confirm the type of oil brand and grade is best. Bear in mind that you want to make sure you do see a listing for your specific model - assume the DC5R has a LSD factory fitted. I've used Castrol VMX 80 successfully in a LSD equiped fwd honda gearbox.
    The metal wearing parts (very very fine particle sizes) will drain out as you remove the old oil but make sure you give the drain plug a really good clean as these are magnetic at times and will hold small bits of debris to ensure that they don't cause premature wear in the 'box. Depending on the breather location on the gearbox you shouldn't really have any sediment/gunk in there unless the box has been submerged for some strange reason....
    With ambient temperature this is normally a concern at the extreme ends of the range - eg very negative Celsius and very high celsius, normal operating temperatures ranging from -5 to +45 you'll find the standard stuff works well. If you're operating at the top end of the temperature range consistently then more frequent oil changes would be a good preventative idea. In very extreme conditions you'd look to fit an oil cooler however these are more inclined to be needed in automatics under heavy load like towing applications.
    thank you for the reply. will definetly follow the advice.

  3. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by 1wht86teg View Post
    Hi Tony99, On the oil type to use you can go genuine oil which will definitely do the job, after market oils are good too - the grade of oil should be listed in the owners handbook if the car came with that. Other than that most of the retailers will have a look up chart where you can confirm the type of oil brand and grade is best. Bear in mind that you want to make sure you do see a listing for your specific model - assume the DC5R has a LSD factory fitted. I've used Castrol VMX 80 successfully in a LSD equiped fwd honda gearbox.
    The metal wearing parts (very very fine particle sizes) will drain out as you remove the old oil but make sure you give the drain plug a really good clean as these are magnetic at times and will hold small bits of debris to ensure that they don't cause premature wear in the 'box. Depending on the breather location on the gearbox you shouldn't really have any sediment/gunk in there unless the box has been submerged for some strange reason....
    With ambient temperature this is normally a concern at the extreme ends of the range - eg very negative Celsius and very high celsius, normal operating temperatures ranging from -5 to +45 you'll find the standard stuff works well. If you're operating at the top end of the temperature range consistently then more frequent oil changes would be a good preventative idea. In very extreme conditions you'd look to fit an oil cooler however these are more inclined to be needed in automatics under heavy load like towing applications.
    thank you for the reply. will definetly follow the advice.

  4. #16
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    The Guy Next Door, Lol.
    Car:
    KSWAPPED STi -R
    I dont think Tony you understand fully what is required. The reason why I said its best if you go to a mechanic is you need to have the car on a level when you measure the refill of fluid. Ill be honest I do with only the front the jacked up but i have done this procedure many times so I know when its actually full.

    Full Procedure:

    Tools Required:
    Hex Bits, bucket to drain the fluid, funnel with a hose attached to it, 4 jackstands and a jack.

    Jack the car up on a level ground both front and rear.

    Open fill bolt usually a Hex bolt or a 17mm.

    Place bucket underneath drain hole

    Open drain hole.

    Attach your filling device to fill hole

    Flush some fluid thru till you see golden takes like 100mls tops to get the result.

    While the old fluid is flushing and your waiting for the last drops to come out, clean the bolts with a rag and inspect for shavings.

    Close the drain hole and fill it leaks out fill hole.

    Close fill hole.

    Double check if both the bolts are torqued properly.

    Lower car. Go for drive, shift thru all gears come back home and inspect for any leaks.

    From the way you have posted, Im sure your gonna have to invest in tools. Hence why you should go to a mechanic or ask a local DIYer
    Jackstands are not cheap..... dont cheap out on safety... for the price of this you could get your fluid changed at a local DIYer or even some mechanics.
    Also remember to put the old used oil into a sealed bottle and recycle it at your closest recycler. Google oil disposal or recycling around your place. I usually wait till I have 20L and do a trip.
    Last edited by amant02; 15-06-2017 at 11:19 PM.

  5. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by amant02 View Post
    I dont think Tony you understand fully what is required. The reason why I said its best if you go to a mechanic is you need to have the car on a level when you measure the refill of fluid. Ill be honest I do with only the front the jacked up but i have done this procedure many times so I know when its actually full.

    Full Procedure:

    Tools Required:
    Hex Bits, bucket to drain the fluid, funnel with a hose attached to it, 4 jackstands and a jack.

    Jack the car up on a level ground both front and rear.

    Open fill bolt usually a Hex bolt or a 17mm.

    Place bucket underneath drain hole

    Open drain hole.

    Attach your filling device to fill hole

    Flush some fluid thru till you see golden takes like 100mls tops to get the result.

    While the old fluid is flushing and your waiting for the last drops to come out, clean the bolts with a rag and inspect for shavings.

    Close the drain hole and fill it leaks out fill hole.

    Close fill hole.

    Double check if both the bolts are torqued properly.

    Lower car. Go for drive, shift thru all gears come back home and inspect for any leaks.

    From the way you have posted, Im sure your gonna have to invest in tools. Hence why you should go to a mechanic or ask a local DIYer
    Jackstands are not cheap..... dont cheap out on safety... for the price of this you could get your fluid changed at a local DIYer or even some mechanics.
    Also remember to put the old used oil into a sealed bottle and recycle it at your closest recycler. Google oil disposal or recycling around your place. I usually wait till I have 20L and do a trip.
    thanks for the walkthrough. I have everything i need so thats why i said i mostly know how to do it.

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