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  1. #1
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    Generation 1 Odyssey RA1 / RA3 RHD - Manual Conversion Guide

    This is an old write up from years ago. From recent videos on the Boostedboiz youtube channel it seems you can instead alter some wiring near the ecu to fix the wiring for bypassing the auto tranny instead of how I have described. Also the interior heater plastic piping piece that block the shifter cables can probably just be totally removed.

    Thomas from Fast Eddies Racing for inspiration and guys at RA1 Ody Owners group for some assistance (particularly Jose).
    I bought a Generation 1 Odyssey RA3 with F23a7 earlier this year, on the test drive it seemed to be fine,but after buying it I found out that when it got hot the auto transmission would turn to shit. I later found out that the auto transmissons of 90s to early 2000s Hondas were known to die early. This is why you can find heaps of Hondas of that era for sale at low prices that are stated to be in good condition but with problems with the transmission.

    Anyway, after finding out the transmission had issues I considered my options. Either get a used transmission and drop it in, pay thousands to have the transmission rebuilt or attempt a manual swap.

    Swapping in a used transmission didn't make sense as it probably wouldn't be long until it died. Paying thousands to have a transmission rebuilt, that is known to be dodgy, in a car I paid just under $5k for didn't make sense.And of course, being an idiot who can't seem to escape project cars,doing a manual conversion seemed like the wisest option.

    Before starting, the conversion seemed like a fairly easy job given that Left Hand Drive Odyssey's had been converted, and even a kit had been made by 'Fast Eddie's Racing'. See below video.

    However, the mechanical aspects for RHD differ a bit compared to methods for LHD.

    Information on Generation 1 Odysseys
    Generation 1 Odysseys were sold from around 95-99. The design of the engine bay is meant to be extremely similar to the CD Accord. Odyssey's only came in automatic. In Australia and the US there are two types of Generation 1 Odysseys, the 95-97 RA1 with F22 non vtec (I think OBD1)which is basically the same as the CD Accord, and the 98-99 RA3 with F23a vtec with a SIMILAR engine to the accord after the CD Accord,the 6th generation accord. Japan and other countries came with other variants too, like the RA5 with a J series V6, but anyway.

    Guide for RHD conversion.
    Parts needed

    • Manual gearbox to match engine (I used an F22 out of a CD accord, but any F or H is meant to bolt up fine).
    • CD Accord Manual Driveshafts and Matching Midshaft (word is prelude shafts and other accord shafts may work too).
    • H/F series Flywheel with pivot bearing/race, Clutch and Pressure Plate.
    • Flywheel bolts (these are longer than auto pressure plate bolts)
    • Manual gearbox bolts to engine (differ to auto bolts)
    • Matching Shift linkage and Shifter with all the washers and bolts (I used CD accord, but others state certain prelude shifters work, however the linkage andshifter have to match).
    • Rear main seal (I believe Honda F/H/B are all the same I used: 91214-PLE-003)
    • Willwood brake pedal (part number 340-1287*note, this is NOT the same as the pedal that comes in the FAST EDDIES manual conversion kit that some people use to convert LHD gen1 Odysseys)

    • DC integra Master cylinder or Honda Master Cylinder with outlet facing passenger side.
    • Imperial 5/16-24 threaded Master Cylinder Rod ( this is to match the Wilwood pedal thread and will replace the one in the DC integra master cylinder)
    • Generic gasket material
    • M8 coupling nut, M8 40mm-ish bolt and M8 nuts
    • m12? Nut to match gearbox mount bolt.
    • Slave cylinder (accord/prelude)
    • Manual Starter motor (differs to auto)
    • Manual CD accord gearbox mount and bracket
    • Clutch fluid reservoir 90's Accord/Integra/Prelude will work fine.
    • Manual ECU depending on if you have RA1/RA3 (there might not be one for RA3 though).
    • Custom braided clutch line that is right angle with thread (m10 I think) to match the master cylinder and straight m10 for the slave (I used HEL performance custom line) Mine was 98cm with quite a bit of slack.

    Tools needed

    • Metric tap and die kit
    • Calliper ruler
    • Approx 38mm+ hole saw for steel
    • Approx 32mm+ hole saw for metal
    • 13mm drill bit
    • Spanners
    • Socket Set
    • wobble extensions
    • deep sockets
    • impact sockets
    • 36mm socket for wheels
    • Whiteout pen/marker
    • Grinder
    • Drill
    • Drill bits
    • Torque wrench/wrenches

    1) REMOVE AUTO AND SHIFTER - Put the car in park and remove the auto transmission. Follow the steps in the CD Accord workshop manual or possible 6th generation Accord or Prelude manuals. Also remove the column shifter for the transmission including the cable, and put the firewall grommet that goes around the cable back in place (I cut the cable to keep the grommet in good condition). You will not need the transmission, drive shafts, or shifter. However, when removing the transmission keep the quarter PIE type mechanism (pic below) connected to the wiring loom as this tells the car the the transmission is in PARK which allows the car to start, if you want you can change from PARK to N or D by putting a screw driver in this mechanism and turning.

    The manual gearbox and mount connect to the chassis slightly differently than the auto mount does. On the chassis there are two dimples/dots (I marked these in white in the below pic), you need to use a 13mm drill on the dimple closest to the original hole used by the auto mount, there is a corresponding dimple on the other side. Because my 13mm drill bit was long I had to cut it shorter so that I could get the drill in place. Note, you can do this step later if you wish.

    3) INSTALL NEW REAR MAIN SEAL - Pull the rear main seal and replace it with a new one. My method was to tap/smash a flathead screwdriver through the old seal and use pliers to pull it out. Note that the seal has a metal ring in it, so be careful not scratch the crank or the casing around the seal. I then cleaned the surfaces, lubed the seal with oil and tapped the seal on in a circular and step by step motion.

    I have seen a few different methods of installing a clutch pedal in LHD generation 1 odysseys. Some people use the CD accord clutch pedal, however the CD accord clutch pedal won't work in RHD odyssey's because it is a curved shape, and where it would meet with the firewall on a RHD is not flat. After a bit of testing with CD Accord clutch pedal, the Wilwood floor pedal which comes with the FAST EDDIE's kit, and a Wilwood Firewall Brake pedal, I found that the pedal that will work is the Wilwood firewall brake pedal (part number 340-1287 &nbsp[IMG]file:///D:/CarManuals/WORKLOG/Odyssey%20manual%20guide/DIY%20Generation%201%20Odyssey%20%E2%80%93%20RA1%2 0_%20RA3%20%E2%80%93%20RHD%20-%20Manual%20Conversion%20Guide_files/wink.png[/IMG]. This is because lines up with a flat part of the firewall right next to the brake booster. See below picture I used when working out which pedal to use:

    Now the two studs that come the master do not match the Wilwood pedal as they are too far apart. So measure the gap of the Wilwood pedal holes (from memory a few mm over 50mm) and mark that on the Clutch master. Then drill and tap the Master so you can put the studs in there so it can mount to the pedal. I suggest doing 1 stud, then mounting the pedal, then usea phillips head screwdriver though the other hole of the pedal to punch a mark on the master so you can accurately drill a hole for the second stud. Because the the Wilwood pedal uses imperial thread, you have to remove the metric rod from the master and install the 5/16-24 threaded rod this is done by removing the rubber cover and un-cliping the clip in the master. You will most likely have to cut/shorten the rod when it comes time to install so that you can get the correct pedal position.

    See below of a pic of modded DC integra master cylinder.

    After drilling the hole, remove the studs from the modified master cylinder and put itin place, and use the holes in the master cylinder to make a mark onthe firewall so that you can drill holes for the stud to go through.I did one hole first, then mounted the master with one stud and marked the second hole by pushing a phillips head screwdriver through the hole to make a mark for drilling.

    Once drilled, check everything lines up ok. You can them make some gaskets for the pedal and master cylinder so that they seal against the firewall. I also glued some steel where the pedal so that it was an even connection,and bashed down the high points of where it mounted too.

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    Last edited by Dxs; 06-05-2018 at 11:09 AM. Reason: addeded sd sdasdfas

  2. #2
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    For the shifters to run from the gearbox to the shifter, holes in the firewall need to be made. I made a square hole to feed them through, however I suggest making two small circular holes with a hole saw just bit enough for the shifter cables to fit through. You can then use a rubber grommet that you have put an X split for a decent seal. You will also have to put holes in the black plastic instake for the heater suggest using the hole saw and grommets again. For the shift linkages you can remove the old rubber firewall seal and mount. Also, when installing them I had to remove the vacuum line thingo that went to the rear mount for the cruise control. Note that when installing the shifter linkage it goes above the mount between the mount and the intake manifold you may need to undo the manifold bracket or o2 sensor when installing as well.

    6) INSTALL SHIFTER BOX The floor of the odyssey is low so a box needs to be made for the shifter to sit on. I used the box from the FAST EDDIEs kit, however people make their own boxes out of whatever metal they want. I bolted mine to the floor note that there are rails under the car so make sure you dont drill into one of those or you wont be able to put a nut on the bolt. Also be careful to give enough space for the handbrake.

    7) INSTALL CLUTCH, BOX, SHAFTS, SHIFT LINKAGE, PEDAL WITH FLUID Follow the CD accord workshop manual for clutch, gearbox and shaft install. Notes on linkage install was mentioned before. Install pedal and master cylinder with the gaskets you made. For the master reservoir just mount it somewhere higher than the master and any high points in the line from the reservoir to the master. I mounted mine in front of the brake reservoir on the bracket that holes the throttle cable. Connect the custom braided line to the master and slave.

    8) MAKE A PEDAL STOPPER I noticed that the pedal had too much travel where the slave would press the clutch fork too far and it would make a clunk noise (i believe stock accords etc never use all the stroke of the master cylinder as the pedal arm hits the firewall before that point). To make a stopper I used a M8?? coupling nut and a bolt. Put the coupling nut and the m8 bolt on the lower master cylinder stud and adjust it so the pedal stops just because the clunk sound can be made. I think I used 50mm bolt but had to cut it a bit, I also plan to glue some rubber on the bolt head.

    9) ELECTRONICS - For RA1s there is already information out there. I believe RA1 manual conversions use a OBD1 F22 accord manual ecu, or you can just pull the auto computer and do some mods. You can wire up the gearbox reverse switch to the auto quarter pie thing, and also mess with that wiring to keep it always in PARK. For RA3, well I am still looking into it, I tried accord F23a manual ecu and it started but with ECU error codes (6th gen accord ecu has an extra chip for ULEV I think, which might be messing things up)... will hopefully update in time. sdsdasdasdas
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    Last edited by Dxs; 06-05-2018 at 11:06 AM. Reason: uploading images..

  3. #3
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    Rear mount update:
    Regarding the rear mount, the odyssey has a vacuum actuated rear mount - which means on throttle the mount goes stiff due to vacuum. Because the vacuum actuator needed to be removed for the shifter cables, you have to replace it with a non vacuum mount - I have been told that non vacuum rear mounts only exists in aftermarket form, meaning get a cheap non oem mount off ebay (I am waiting on mine to be delivered - it looks pretty much like a vacuum mount, and has a spot for the solenoid/actuator, but it doesnt come with the solenoid/actuator or mechanism).

    I do wonder if a manual mount and bracket off a CD accord would work though. Manual CD accord rear mounts are non vacuum but have a different bolt arrangement where it meets the subframe. Anyway.

    I should have posted this earlier.. hopefully I do not forget anything.

    As you know, RA3 odyssey's did not come in manual, so there is no manual odyssey ecu for its F23a engine.

    I originally bought an ecu from a USDM 6th Gen CG Accord F23a manual - coded PAA-L11. When I tested it I go a bunch of engine lights. I later found out that AUDM and JDM F23a engines are different than USDM engines due to emissions etc. The strange thing is that eventhough the AUDM CG Accord is made in the USA, it still has a different setup than the USDM model.

    How JDM/AUDM F23a engines differ to the USDM include:

    • USDM has vtec pressure switch, AUDM does not
    • USDM has ELD, AUDM does not
    • USDM has two o2 sensors (1 before and one after the cat) - JDAUDM only has 1 pre cat.
    • USDM EGR is different than AUDM/M - I noticed the USDM ECU had an extra chip in the ecu which traced to the wires going to the EGR - Also using the USDM engine my EGR system started making a loud clicking when warm.
    • I also got an engine light for some fuel vapour thing, and i think I got a light for the distributor CYK (which doesnt make sense)

    Anyway, I ended up getting a AUDM 6th Gen Accord ECU - PAA-Q50 and it works but you gotta do a little bit of wiring.

    To get the ECU to work you have to do a few things.

    Desolder/remove the immobilizer board (FX-01) from your odyssey's ECU and put it in the new manual ecu you have. This board matches your key, if you dont swap it you will not be able to start your car because the immboliser will kick in. Alternatively you can by a FX01 'dummy'/emulator board to put into the manual ecu which will disable the immobiliser meaning you can use a non programmed key if you want.
    The quarter pie thing on the auto transmission (mentioned in earlier) - is a switch that tells the car if it is in PARK, DRIVE, NEUTRAL, REVERSE etc. To start the car it has to be in park. Using the diagram below, snip wire 1 and 3 and join them together (3 is the common ground). Doing this will set your car in 'park' all the time so you can start your car. If you want you can also join wire 10, this will light up the P on your cluster (i didn't want to though).

    The auto transmission on the odyssey has a bunch of wires going to solenoids and a speed sensor. Manual transmissions only have a reverse switch and speed sensor (VSS). The reverse switch on the gearbox basically makes a connection when the box is in reverse. Like with park mode above, all you have to do is connect one wire of the reverse switch to wire 9 of the quarter pie selector and the other to a ground (pick a chassis spot). Your reverse lights and the R on your cluster should light up when you select reverse after this is done.

    The plug to the manual VSS has three wires. If you use a plug from a CD accord it is BLACK, YELLOW, ORANGE. If you use one from a CG accord is is BLACK, BLACK WITH YELLOW STRIPE, BLUE WITH WHITE STRIPE. The CG accord plug colours match the RA3 wiring, but it doesnt really matter which one you use.

    For both CD and CG accord plugs. BLACK = GROUND. So ground this to the chassis.

    CD accord YELLOW / CG accord BLACK with YELLOW = 12V power. Some people connect this to the battery but that is not proper. I was lucky enough to have CG accord wiring loom so copied that - connect this wire to the BLACK WITH YELLOW wire that goes to the alternator. This is a 12v switching wire which will only have power when you turn you car on.

    CD accord ORANGE / CG accord BLUE WITH WHITE STRIPE = Signal wire to the ecu. This is the wire that connects to the ECU to give the speed input. As said before, the odyssey loom has a bunch of plugs for solenoids on the auto transmission. One or two of these solenoid plugs has a wire that has insulation/shielding (another cover to shield the signal that is sent through that wire) - Find that one and cut it, go the ECU plug and look for that same wire and cut it and check for continuity (if you have a mulitmeter). You can then join the VSS plug signal wire to this shielded wire in the engine bay, and on the other end this wire connect it to C23 of the ECU. I think from memory that you may have to depin a wire from the the auto plug of the ecu to use to plug into C23 (do a search on the net for depinning OBD2B plugs.. it involes pulling up the white 'lock' of the plug then pressing a bit of the plastic where the pin goes so the pin can be pulled out). When you have this connection, the ECU should get the VSS signal.

    To get the speed signal to the cluster, you have to cut A9 on the ecu plug (which is on the auto plug), and also connect it with the vss signal on C23. A9 is VSS out to the cluster. You should then have speedometer on your cluster.

    The manual ecu has 2 bolt holes, where as the auto ecu has 3 (from memory). You can simply unbolt the boards in both and swap it so you can bolt the manual ecu into the stock location. From memory the ECU board has 4 screws for the PCB and 1 screw for ecu heatsink/MOSFETy thing.

    With the wiring I ended up untaping a lot of the engine bay loom so I could remove a lot of unneeded auto solenoid plugs and connect all the gearbox wiring. I also remove a bit of the quarter pie auto selector wiring that wasnt needed. Then i retaped it all.


    Remove solenoid ignition barrel solenoid
    Another thing to do is to remove the solenoid that is on the ignition barrel (where your key goes). From memory, this solenoid doesn't allow you to remove your key if the auto transmission is not in PARK. Given you have wired the car to always be in park, this solenoid is useless so just remove it.

    I also replaced the intake pipe with an aftermarket for a CD accord. Because the stock intake pipe had resonators etc that could possibly clash with the gearbox shifter mechanism etc.

    Also, for all the relays etc which were bolted to the firewall where the clutch pedal is now - i got a strip of aluminium, and drilled and bolted it to the steering column where the auto selector cable used to mount to - and then drilled holes in the aluminium and zipped tied all the relays to it to keep them out of the way.

    1) These two plugs are plugged into blanks under the glove box. If you get an engine light, turn off the car and short the two pin plug, then switch your car on and it should flash out the codes on the cluster. The grey thing in my hand is a connector I made (i broke it off the auto transmission column selector that I removed) and connected the two pins with solder. This allows me to just plug that into the 2 pin blue plug, without needing to use a paper clip or anything.
    2) This is the wire (black with yellow) which has switched 12v for use with the VSS.
    3) Shows the VSS plug wires from a CG Accord. Black is ground, BLUE/WHITE connected to insulated blue wire with pink insulation, and the BLACK/YELLOW goes to the switched power mentioned above.
    4) The quarter pie wiring, use this diagram when doing the PARK and the REVERSE wiring.
    5) ECU pin out - can remember if it is ECU or PLUG pin out. But you can get CG accord detail pin out PDF on the net which is a few pages. Go find that.

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