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  1. #1
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Jazz GLi CVT

    Unhappy CVT recalibration procedure - what result did you get?

    Recently due to a recent scare driving jerkiness on my CVT Jazz, I was forced to reset the ECU/PCM and disconnect the battery to determine if this was the reason for the problem. In the end, it turned out to be a bad EGR.

    Anyway, the exercise of reset of ECU/PCM or lost of battery power on a CVT Jazz requires recalibration of CVT. This is explained in the rather lengthy service manual. I followed through the procedure and could not find the same results as explained in the manual, and I wonder if anyone else had tried this and got similar result.

    Let me select portions of the manual and highlight what I meant:

    --------

    There are 2 ways to reset calibrate the start clutch - one during halt (car not move) and another driving. I tried both but there's no way from the driving method to tell you if it worked or not (or perhaps the very act of driving actually calibrate it obviously). I prefer the static method which is supposed to give you feedback from the instruments that it is now OK.

    According to the instruction you need a DLC pin box, a tool full of metal pins that has a data cable that connects to the data link connector (DLC), the "D" shape connector beneath your steering wheel, just beneath the air-con controls. This pin box allows you to easily short pins 4 & 9.

    Pin 9 is the SCS (a signal to the computer that you are doing some "service") and pin 4 is the ground.

    If you look at the "D" connector of DLC, the top-left pin is 1, next to its right is 2, etc. until the top-right corner is pin 8. Then, bottom left starts with pin 9, next to its right is pin 10, until bottom-right corner is pin 16. If you measure with a voltmeter, pin 4 is shorted to the car chassis (ie. ground). Pin 16 is battery power (12V).

    --------

    With this in mind, the procedure to recalibrate CVT is... bits & pieces from the book...

    1. Apply the parking brake, and block all four wheels securely.
    2. Warm up the engine to normal operating temperature (the radiator fan comes on).
    3. Make sure that the MIL does not come on and the [D] indicator does not blink.
    4. If the MIL comes on or [D] indicator blinks, check the fuel and emissions system or the A/T control system, and recheck after checking.
    5. Turn the ignition switch OFF.

    6. Connect the special tool (07WAJ-0010100) to the data link connector, then connect the jumper wire between terminals 4 and 9 at the special tool, and turn the switch ON to short-circuit SCS to ground.

    ** STEP 6: now if you don't have this "special tool" (aka the DLC pin box), you can connect a short wire between pins 4 & 9 - otherwise the following procedure is meaningless and system will not calibrate - unlike some other instruction elsewhere on other forums that omit this vital step.

    7. Press the brake pedal, and continue pressing the pedal unit complete of the calibration.
    8. Start the engine under no-load conditions, then turn the headlights on. The headlights must be turned on during calibration.
    9. Shift the shift lever into [N] position, and shift to [D], [S], [L] position, then shift back to [S], [D], and into [N] in 20 seconds after the engine is started. The shift lever should stop at each position. Repeat this shifting twice.
    10. Check that the [D] indicator comes on for one minute with the shift lever is in [N] position, then the indicator goes off.
    11. If the [D] indicator blinks not to come on, or the [D] indicator comes on, and stays on (it does not go off after one minute). Turn the ignition switch OFF, restart the procedures with step 6.
    12. Shift to [D] position, and check that the [D] indicator comes on for 2 minutes, then it goes off.
    13. If the [D] indicator blinks not to come on, or the [D] indicator comes on, and stays on (it does not go off after one minute). Turn the ignition switch OFF, restart the procedures with step 6.
    14. Turn the ignition switch OFF to reach completion.
    15. Test-drive the vehicle to verify that a problem does not occur on the start clutch control system.

    --------

    OK, my "problem" is this:

    After step 8, my [D] light does not come on - which is cool, as I think this is what you expect, as the system is in calibration mode.

    I go through step 9, so far so good. But when it comes to step 10 - my [D] light does NOT come on for 1 min, when shifter is in [N]. And even if I repeat the procedure again from step 1, the same thing.

    Also, I cannot get the same result from step 12 (step 10 & 12 should be inter-related, if you can't get one then forget the other I guess). I am uncertain why this happens.

    Nevertheless, after I've done step 9 & repeated the cycle up to that point a couple of times, I stopped. My CVT presumably is calibrated - just that I cannot verify as I cannot get to step 10 & 12.

    My questions are (open for discussion):

    1. Have you tried this recalibration of CVT yourself? Or perhaps you can try it if you accidentally disconnect battery, some time in the future.

    2. And if so, can you get the results as described in step 10 & 12, ie. [D] light is supposed to come on for some time.

    --------

    According to the book, you're supposed to do this recalibration when:

    - Disconnecting the battery terminal(s)
    - Removing the No. 20 ECU (15A) fuse in the under-dash fuse/relay box
    - Replaced the start clutch
    - Replaced the control valve body
    - Overhauled the transmission assembly
    - Replaced the transmission assembly
    - Overhauled the engine assembly
    - Replaced the engine assembly

    I've been through the first 2 reasons (the other reasons are scary ones) & hence I went through the entire procedure but the result is not quite what I expect.

    Thanks in advanced for any feedback or thoughts on this.

  2. #2
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Location
    Wodonga, Victoria
    Car:
    Civic Type-R
    Unless I've learnt something enterily different I thought the procedure for resetting CVT in a Jazz was as follows:
    Apply parking break throughout all steps and make sure handbreak is applied.
    1) Start Engine, and engage to "N" for 2 minutes
    2) After the initial 2 minutes have passed, engage to "D" for a further 2 minutes
    3) Turn off your engine, and continue to resetting other factors (such as auto-power window)

    I thought I read this someware on the forum a while back because I installed my own custom car audio and obviously when dealing with amps etc its always better to deal with a disconected battery.

    I think the message from honda regarding the CVT is a bit of a hoax call though, Im still running around without a reset and I havent noticed any difference in driving.

    If I'm wrong with the resetting procedure I wouldnt mind being corrected since I would of been following the wrong procedures myself for the past 3 months.

    Hope this helps.

  3. #3
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2005
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Honda Jazz VTi
    Me aswell. I disconnected the battery to install my Buddyclub Racing Spec Condenser and never really went through the resetting procedure and the car runs fine. No abnormal behavior what so ever??

  4. #4
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Jazz GLi CVT
    Quote Originally Posted by ^CarBoy^
    Me aswell. I disconnected the battery to install my Buddyclub Racing Spec Condenser and never really went through the resetting procedure and the car runs fine. No abnormal behavior what so ever??
    The Honda service guy told me that sometimes, just sometimes, the engine and the CVT calibration goes off, or the ECU/PCM forgets what settings it used to engage [D], [S], [L], [N]. If that happens, the car will go to berzerk mode I imagine, and the it may go into 1/2 way between [D] and [S] or something stupid like that. He said most of the time however, it is fine - hence the warning of resetting the CVT is just that - a warning. But, if we don't reset the CVT correctly every time, there's a risk of serious engine/transmission damage.

  5. #5
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Location
    MEL 墨尔本
    Car:
    爵士
    According to the instruction you need a DLC pin box, a tool full of metal pins that has a data cable that connects to the data link connector (DLC), the "D" shape connector beneath your steering wheel, just beneath the air-con controls. This pin box allows you to easily short pins 4 & 9.

    Pin 9 is the SCS (a signal to the computer that you are doing some "service") and pin 4 is the ground.

    If you look at the "D" connector of DLC, the top-left pin is 1, next to its right is 2, etc. until the top-right corner is pin 8. Then, bottom left starts with pin 9, next to its right is pin 10, until bottom-right corner is pin 16. If you measure with a voltmeter, pin 4 is shorted to the car chassis (ie. ground). Pin 16 is battery power (12V).
    Where do you get this DLC? and what is MIL?
    What's the standard driving reset procedure?

  6. #6
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Car:
    2006 Jazz GD3
    sorry to revive an old thread but has anyone done the resetting using this method and have it work?

    also what is the driving reset procedure?

  7. #7
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Car:
    2007 Honda Jazz
    I have just managed to get the first 1 minute D using this process, a few tips:

    - You need to perform the gear motions very quickly. An example of this in action: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RlBZ2eQiCPw from about 3 minutes 30.
    - You need to perform the gear motions 3 times, not twice. Example: N D S L S D N D S L S D N D S L S D N (and you should have a green illuminated D at that point).

    On that note... after the D light went off after a minute, I got a flashing D when moving the shifter from N to D... thats my next issue to solve

    Regards, Nathan.

  8. #8
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Car:
    2007 Honda Jazz
    Just another note... did it again, and this time I have a solid D light after moving the shifter from N to D This time though after 2 minutes the D light started flashing and didn't go out, oh well time to try again.

    One tip here... before I restarted the process, I disconnected the battery (just did the negative), then tried to start the car and turn the headlights on (get any residual current to disappear), waited 30 seconds then reconnected the battery. Then I connected the piece of wire I have to short pins 4 and 9 on the DLC, started the engine, switched the headlights on and started the gear shifting. Time from engine start to having the 3 gear change cycles complete and the D light on would have easily been sub-20 seconds.

  9. #9
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Car:
    2007 Honda Jazz
    OK I finally got the "vehicle stopped" method to work 100% as documented this time. This was about the 4th attempt, even after getting the green D light immediately after the gear shift procedure.

    The second last time, I got a green D light when in N, but then the D flashed at the end instead of going off. The last time, it worked perfectly. I didn't have to do the battery disconnection between the second last and last time, I did start the car again without DLC pins 4 and 9 though in between, warmed it up again, then stopped and reshorted. I would start the car with the headlights off, flick them on after about a second, then proceed into the gear shift routine. I left the shifter in each gear for maybe 1/2 a second at a time, maybe 1 second max. Keeping the whole process quick seems to help.

    To confirm, when in N after the gear shift routine the D light would stay on for maybe 45~ seconds, then go out. I moved the shifter to D within about 2-3 seconds, and it came back on and stayed on almost the full 2 minutes.

    I think its an imperfect process overall, that just needs repetition until it works as documented. Persistence

  10. #10
    The last time I did this I .....

    Reset ECU

    start car , put in D, warm up
    Accelerate to 60km/h fairly hard then back off , let car coast to almost stationary. Repeat a few times
    Done

  11. #11
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    sydney
    Car:
    09 VTIS, Lotus.
    Quote Originally Posted by bennjamin View Post
    The last time I did this I .....

    Reset ECU

    start car , put in D, warm up
    Accelerate to 60km/h fairly hard then back off , let car coast to almost stationary. Repeat a few times



    Done

    Ditto with my old GD CVT.

  12. #12
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    06 Euro
    service manual description available here:
    http://www.hondafitjazz.com/manual/A...881BBAT00.HTML

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