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  1. #1

    Poor weight distribution, can this be made to handle?

    So, my car has 740kg over the front wheels and 380kg over the rear wheels (no spare tyre, low petrol etc)

    I can move some stuff from engine to boot (battery), have some extractors as opposed to cast iron manifold, and will get a carbon bonnet
    Also with some stereo gear, the car should have about 700kg front and maybe 430kg rear

    Can this be made to handle really well with the correct spring rates, damper rates and swaybars?

  2. #2
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Yes you can. Do corner balancing. The sum of the weight over the front left and rear right wheels must equal the weight over the front right and rear left wheels.

    And get a thicker rear sway bar.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  3. #3
    I am worried with too stiff of rear suspension, that at speed the rear will be very unsettled and might just flip out unpredictably

    ie. Isn't that the problem utes have? Not enough weight over the rear?
    Though they are RWD I guess too

  4. #4
    thats where setting up suspension is very important.

  5. #5
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Quote Originally Posted by spetz
    I am worried with too stiff of rear suspension, that at speed the rear will be very unsettled and might just flip out unpredictably

    ie. Isn't that the problem utes have? Not enough weight over the rear?
    Though they are RWD I guess too
    I don't think you should use stiff rear suspension (springs) because there is less weight over the rear. The rear sway stops the twisting motion when you are cornering, so you will improve cornering performance.

    Front springs should be stiffer than the rear. From most coilovers for DC2 and EG, it's about 10/6 which should be ok for your car.

    And utes have live axles (leaf springs) for the rear suspension in order to accomodate the heavier rear payload when used to carry stuff around. Leaf springs like to bounce, that's why the rear of utes are unsettled when going over bumps.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  6. #6
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    Melb SE Suburbs
    Car:
    94 EG, 95 EG
    You can also run lower tire pressure at the rear due to light rear weight.

  7. #7
    The car is a lancer not a EG, so the front suspension setup is machpherson rather than double wishbone.
    So, it is 5K front but the shock hooks up onto the hub making it a bit stiffer than in LSA suspension.

    Rear is 4K
    I am thinking of getting 6K springs at the front

    It is running an FTO engine, and Cusco FTO Coilovers have 7K front and 4K rear springs
    However my car is lighter than an FTO, and I am not sure of the FTO's weights front/rear
    But all suspension arms, towers etc are identical between the two.

  8. #8
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    For now, what complaints do you have with your current handling? List the areas you want improved so we can give you suggestions. BTW, if the ride now is not too bumpy and rough, you can stick with 7-4 coilovers.
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  9. #9
    No the coilovers are 5-4
    But it has the FTO engine in it and FTO comes with 7-4 coilovers

    Ok, the car understeers, and the front seems to roll quite a lot, it doesn't have any camber at the front though and the outside of the tyre is getting warn

    Also, the steering is very sensitive, so at high speeds I have to keep "correcting" the car to go in a straight line.
    Low speed cornering feels fine besides some understeer
    But at high speeds it feels weird, I turn the steering wheel, the car turns a bit, then after say half a second or so it just sharply turns more without touching the steering wheel


    These are the issues it has which I think may cuz this:

    The knuckles in it (macpherson suspension) are from a Galant VR4, and the strut towers on a VR4 are closer together than FTO/Lancer. So I have camber pins AND pillowball topmounts and the most camber I can get is -0.8 on the front. Back is at -1.5 now
    I am thinking this might cuz bad alignment of toe when going over bumps (that's why I need to correct it at high speeds?)
    And, the reason at high speeds why it turns initially, then after .5 second it turns sharper is maybe cuz as the car rolls the toe changes heaps at the front?
    I will be changing to FTO knuckles at the front soon

    2nd think is the gearbox leaked oil for a good 6-8 months, and it went all over the under of the car, I am thinking this may have destroyed the bushes?

  10. #10

  11. #11
    Ninja turtle Array
    Join Date
    May 2004
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    Chloe
    Whoops, missed your update. Good thing you bumped. What are the thicknesses of the front and rear sway bars that your lancer has now?

    What is your front and rear toe now?
    --------------------------------------
    Stocky CL9 - 1:17.2

  12. #12
    Front is either 17 or 18mm
    ANd rear is 18mm
    They are both hollow as they are just stock Mitsubishi swaybars

    I got toe at 0 all around I am pretty sure, and camber is -0.8 front and -1.0 rear.

    I'll have the camber fixed up soon though as from a brake upgrade I have wrong type knuckles in there which are from a mitsubishi that the strut towers were spaced closer to eachother than my car (MacPherson suspension at the front)

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