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  1. #1
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Honda's
    Found this article.

    92-95 H22a swap
    92-95 CIVIC H22A
    GUIDELINES

    PARTS NEEDED-

    1. PLACE RACING MOUNTS WITH SOFT RIDE SYSTEM.

    2. PLACE RACING CUSTOM AXLES THAT WILL DEPEND ON A 93-96 PRELUDEJACK SHAFT OR 90-93 ACCORD JACKSHAFT.

    3. ECU -
    “P13” PRELUDE ECU.

    4. SHIFTLINKAGE-
    USE 90 -93 ACCORD OR 92-96 PRELUDE SHIFT LINKAGE. ADJUSTABLE.

    5. INJECTOR RESISTOR -
    92- AND UP PRELUDE 90- UP ACCORD

    6. PLACE RACING BRACKET KIT -
    RELOCATES FUEL FILTER, CLUTCH LINES,
    EVAP PURGE, AND TROTTLE CABLE

    7. PLACE RACING SHIFT BOX (OPTIONAL)-
    BOLTS SHIFTER UNDER SHIFT HOUSING FOR A BETTER SEAL.

    8. REAR MOUNT -
    USE STOCK H22A PRELUDE MOUNT WITH PLACE RACING MOUNTS/SOFT RIDE SYSTEM FOR VIBRATION FREE RIDE.

    9. PLACE RACING INTAKE (OPTIONAL)

    10. SUSPENSION-
    UPGRADE FRONT SPRINGS WITH INTEGRA SPRINGS TO SUPPORT MOTOR WEIGHT.(IMPORTANT)

    11. HARNESS-
    USE STOCK WIRE HARNESS WITH PRELUDE HARNESS ENDS AND EXTENDED CERTAIN PLUG ENDS OR(OPTIONAL) USE PREWIRED PLACE RACING HARNESS.

    12. LOW PROFILE PUSHER RADIATOR FAN -
    BETTER COOLING AND MORE CLEARANCE FROM SLAVE CYLINDER .AVAILIBLE AT NAPA AUTO PARTS.

    13. SHIFTER ASSEMBLY -
    92 AND UP PRELUDE OR 90-93 ACCORD

    14. LATEX CAULK FOR SHIFT BOX-

    15. 1994 BI8A LS INTERGRA DISTRIBUTOR CAP IF JDM PRELUDE DISTRUBUTOR. AMERICAN PRELUDE DISTRIBUTOR CAPS WILL NOT WORK.

    16. PRELUDE COOLANT HOSE’S - CUT TO FIT

    17 ALTERNATOR BELT. NAPA 25-060370


    HOW TO

    Let’s start with the basics, you can forget about keeping your ac or power steering . It will need to be taken out for this swap to free up the most needed room for the H22a motor. If you have power steering it will take some crafting to keep it with this swap. I recomend taking it out for good. It will only drain desirable power from the motor.I think it’s safe to say if you’re considering H22a ,your looking for the performance.

    Start by removing the stock motor from the civic chasis. Make sure the car is secured with jack stands and wheel chucks before proceeding.It will also be easier if you leave the stock civic harness attached to the motor upon removal of the motor.

    After motor, tranny, a/c ,axles, shifter and linkage mounts etc are removed you may now began.

    You can start by removing the fuel filter. This will free it away from the intake manifold. Better for clearance.

    Once completed you can remove the passanger side motor mount housing from frame using the supplied tool from Place racing. Once removed I recommend spreading a little primer and paint over the now scared surface to prevent rust.

    After the removal of the mount housing it would be a good idea to remove the driver side heater hose from the heater box outlet.You will need to purchase bulk heater hose, and cut to correct lenght to reach to the motor. Be careful not to damage heater hose unit.

    Now you can use Place racings soft mount system with stock Honda prelude H22a rear mount purchased from Honda and install using the torque specs in Place racing’s instructions.This soft rise system which is not offered by other companies is a great way to have a smooth almost vibration free ride. I highly recommend the use of there mounts, verses other companies.

    Once rear mount bracket (softride) is installed you can now mount shifter box to the body of car.I purchased place racings shifter box that allows you to mount the prelude shifter to it as the box mounts to the underside of the vehicles shift housing.

    First using the template provided by Place racing, mark the area that will be cut from the civic shifter housing. Using a jig saw cut using the outlined area provided by the template.

    Once completed bolt the place racing shift box from under the car to the factory civic supplied holes in the rear. Hold it secure, mark front hole and drill accordingly.
    When all holes are drilled you can now bolt the shift linkage and shifter to the place racing shifter box .You can now bolt it to the car. Make sure you caulk around body of car and the shifter box to keep road debri from entering the shift box.

    Also a recomended tip is to use a bolt and nut beside passanger shifle cable where it connects to shift box with clips to support it.

    Another way to mount the shifter assembly is to shave the protruding stock civic shifter housing and bolt the entire stock prelude shifter housing from the inside, using a cardboard template of the shifter like it is done on the prelude. Be mindful how it was set up on the prelude.

    You will still need to cut a area through your civic fire wall to run the cables through. It will take a little more of your personal judgement as there are no kits or exact instructions for doing so. It may also cause you to loose the function of your cup holders in the console. But it is an effectived way to save money and still works a 100%. As seen on Rand’s. 92 hatch.

    Also using Place racings mount bracket for passanger underside mount. Bolt in place using factory holes, following Place racing instructions and torque specs.

    Now is a perfect time to do some cleaning in your engine bay. It’s also a great time to have the clutch replaced, as well as the timing belt and water pump. I’ve seen low milage motors come in with very poor clutch surface left.
    It would be a shame to install your motor only to realize your clutch slips. And given the tightness of the motor in a civic engine bay it would be a smart move to replace your clutch, timing belt and water pump.

    Now for the harness. Look at your old stock motor with harness still attached. Using masking tape and permanent markers lable each harness plug starting from 1. Make sure numbers are secure. Now turn to the prelude motor.
    Example: if you labled your civic motor harness plug # 1 at the IAC ( Idle Air Control) Look at the IAC on the prelude and lable the sensor itself #1.Repeat with all sensors and harness until completed.


    Now when you remove the civic harness you’ll know where each plug is to go. Depending on which model civic. DX,CX,EX,VX,SI, some sensors that are on the prelude your civic doesn’t have, and will have to be added and ran to the ECU. See wiring diagrams.

    I found that pluging the distributor, starter, oil switch under distributor is a good way to start.Start pluging in all harness ends that will fit directly to the prelude without having to extend wires. Once completed you should have to extend Vtec solonoid wires and oil pressure switch unless your stock motor was not Vtec like the CX,DX, In that case they will be wired directly to ECU later.

    Your thermo switch at the water outlet, iac, map, air by pass, all injector wires, altenator wires, and a few others will have to be extended. The oil sensor on the rear of the prelude will be expecting the prelude harness plug. You will need to place it on your civic harness for installation.When lengthening injector wires , be sure to refer to the wire diagram on the injector risistor that needs to be added. Depending on what model civic there are a few things dealing with the 02 sensor, Vtec sensor, and EGR sensor. Refer to the wire diagrams for your specific application.

    Also if using a Jap Spec Ecu wiring the EGR valve and lift sensor is purely optional. The Jap Spec Ecu will not need these sensors, however they will be needed for emissions test. If you have an American Spec Ecu they will have to be added to avoid engin codes and failing emissions.

    Also Depending on American and JDM motors. There are differrences between distributors. JDM preludes come with an internal coil that will work. American spec comes with an external coil and will require some swapping of parts. You can use the coil out of a 92-93 accord.

    Once the harness is connected you can place motor in vehicle. Make sure you use factory supplied locations to hook the engine hoist securely. First place driver side mount onto the motor while the engine is being supported by the hoist. Do not tighten.

    Now move to the passenger side, using Place racings mount bolt to the transmission first. Slide supplied bolt from engine bay through mount into the bracket you had earlier installed. Do not tighten.

    Now while motor is still supported, place L shape rear bracket onto the rear of the motor and attach to rear mount. Do not tighten.

    Make sure you have all the necessary clearances between the valve cover and the driver side shock tower, transmission and frame rail.


    Now proceed from one mount to the other. Tighten each mount according to the torque specs provided by Place racing until mounts are tighten.

    Once completed bolt your jackshaft up and then install your axles. Be sure to check for clearance. Now you can connect the other end of your shift linkage to the transmission. Be sure to connect the heater hose from the heater core to the motor.

    You will notice on the prelude speed sensor that there are two lines coming from it. They will need to be capped off. Now would be a good time to install your header and altenator belt. Once you put the header on it will only sit a few inches away from your catback exhaust system with out the convertor. You will need to have a exhaust shop weld in a piece of pipe connecting the two or cut your catback exhaust and add a convertor. Do not cut header

    Now you can place your radiator back in. I would recommend a low profile pusher fan if you’re using your stock radiator for the much needed cooling capabilities and clearance from the slave cylinder. If you live in a hot climate, I would also upgrade your factory radiator.

    Make sure you install your clutch line also using place racings clutch line bracket for easier installation. The clutch line will need to be moved slightly to reach properly. The bracket bolts the line to one of the starter bolts allowing you to use factory lines. Gently bend the clutch lines accordingly. Make sure not to kink.

    You can also connect the throttle linkage using Place racings bracket which allows you to use your stock throttle linkage. You will have to modify your fuel hose to reach from your fuel filter to your fuel rail. There are a number of ways to do this.
    1.Either take a hose and coupling place that will extend it for you for around $15.00
    2.Cut your fuel hose. Go to ACE hardware get the correct size hose addapters and a add line in between using hose clamps to secure it.
    3.Purchase aftermarket fuel rail for the prelude
    4.Use a fuel rail of a 90-93 accord.

    Make sure to hook up all vaccumn lines and you should be ready to go.

    Goodluck

  2. #2
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    wagga wagga
    Car:
    CD5 vti-s
    yes, hook up the vaccum lines correctly or you will go insane- like i did when i did my swap. :P

  3. #3
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    EG Civic VTi
    nice!

  4. #4
    Needs more time... Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2003
    Location
    Sydney
    Blog Entries
    12
    Quote Originally Posted by honda_b_blastn
    Found this article.
    Where?

    Credit the source or we will have to remove this.

    IE: Update the first post.
    Got a question? Check out the FAQ - http://www.ozhonda.com/go/faq

  5. #5
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Honda's
    11.41@119 mile ALL MOTOR street chassis

    K series parts whore

    FFamily

  6. #6
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    Queensland
    Car:
    05 CBR600RR, EGG
    so how much would all this cost? motor and parts, then labour. what is the total cost drive in drive out?

  7. #7
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    Honda's
    Well i know of two other people that have done the swap where it cost them 10G,but i did mine myself..$5500...

  8. #8
    finally a guide which talks about suspension, tops!

  9. #9
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Car:
    EG+K20A2 = 12.79sec
    tried 1/4 mile yet?

  10. #10
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    Canada
    Car:
    95 eg cpe
    nice post man, great info

  11. #11
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Mar 2008
    Location
    under a bridge
    Car:
    Jdm EG6
    How does it compare to the k20 eg?
    Quote Originally Posted by bennjamin View Post
    hmm id tap it. Even in mid air like that. Possibly with the pee pee flying out too.
    Quote Originally Posted by bennjamin View Post
    you guys remember squirtqueen.com ? I spent many a hr in computer studies in yr 10 looking that up.

  12. #12
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2009
    Location
    Australia
    Car:
    EG5 vti
    how much does a h22a motor cost anyway?

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