Front Brake Pad change !

[bennjamin]

Hi all ! Bren here....ANOTHER DIY for yo lazy asses ! This is how u change ur front brake pads...somethign that shouldnt cost money to do - its easy !

Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

Aim: To change your front (highest rate of wear!) brake pads !

Required: Pnuematic jack , wheel brace , small g-clamp or similar , ratchet with 10mm piece , WD40 , 4x brake pads (two for both front brake assembly setups - one either side of rotor) to suit your Honda !

Steps:


First , apply the handbrake in cabin , to maximum pull. Then , step out ,and loosen the desired front wheels nuts. Now jack up the car by either the tow points , or jack point upon the chassis. Remove the nuts and thus the desired wheel !


Locate the bottom bolt , and apply the 10mm piece to it. Undo !


Slide out bolt , and leave aside - apply some WD40 to the bolt to clean/free up.


Rotate caliper up as shown , and slide out both brake pads - inspect and replace if wear exceeds reccomended limits. . . or if any warpage or chunks missing etc.
*click* new pads into place - and cover with shimmys and recommended grease if still inplace.


Position yourself infront of the brake rotor- inspect for warpage - spin the rotor and look for any cracks , blemishes etc.


While caliper is still up - position G-clamp upon the piston , to tighten once again as new brake pads are thicker than previous.


Slide down the caliper , place freshly cleaned bolt back in , Use your strength to torque the bolt-AND Do not over tighten , and hook everything back up opposite of undoing ! You is done ! And all in "f1 style" record time !



*NOTE - after resetting piston , brake pedal may feel sluggish/stuffy/soft - simply drive slowly after , and pump the brakes so the hydraulic lines re-circulate the fluid, and thus returning to 100% firmness
ALSO ! Some brake pads may need to be worn in - a series of mid speed rolls (say 60km/h) THEN sudden stops seems to be the best way - after a short time of wearing in , the brakes should be fine When in doubt of anything , take to a professional ASAP !

Enjoy Stopping again !

[LatinoHatchCrap]

[A'PEXi]

this applies to most modern cars, yeh?

[DCLXVI]

i thot we need to apply Molykote M77 on the pad shim. and btw, whats the use of that.

[ECU-MAN]

Great stuff bennjamin, but may I add some suggestions !!!!

1 - once the car is jacked up PUT A JACK STAND under the car's jack point.
2 - make sure all the calliper pins move freely within there slots.
3 - make sure you master cylinder doesnt overflow when pushing back pistons
4 - once you have put it all together DO NOT JUST DRIVE OFF.. pump your brake pedal several times prior to starting your engine until the pedal goes hard, as at this time you will not have any front brakes until the caliper piston has moved out to the pad.

[OLM-02R]

nice one ben...

[McChook]

Yeah, good stuff, but a few safety bits missing...

Definitely need an axle stand as a brace when you have the car jacked up. personally, I use an axle stand everytime I jack the car up - better safe than dead.

I recomend you bleed the brakes after changing the pads - while you are down there, it would be a good idea.

[wynode]

Great work Ben!

But:

Slide down the caliper , place freshly cleaned bolt back in , HAND tighten ...

?

[ECU-MAN]

Great work Ben!

But:

Slide down the caliper , place freshly cleaned bolt back in , HAND tighten ...

?

yeah this bolt should be done up with da spanner, not finger or hand tight. dont over tighten !!!! ( is that what your trying to say )

[[[d a n n y]]]

he means not to over do it.

[jords]

too easy, i think i could even do this :P

[Redteg]

Top stuff Ben! Our Ozhonda guru!

I place an old brake pad over the piston and then put the clamp over that, just so that its pushed in evenly, doubt it matters much though.

Also, the rears vary (at least on my teg and i'd assume civics) in that the piston (if equipped with disc brakes) needs to be 'screwed' back into the caliper, not pushed alone.

Molykote prevents vibration and rattling, I think, as do the outer and inner pad shims. I do not use either and there have not been any problems thus far.