How to change a Fuel Pump on a EG Civic (Can be applied to most other Honda's)

[tiksie]

Just thought I'd put a guide up for those that want to change their fuel pumps.

Reason for changing mine is because it was faulty.

Couple reasons for a faulty fuel pump:

• Long use of shit fuel.
• Allowing your tank to go below reserve (dry out your pump)
• Shitty connections
• Old age
• List goes on..

My situation seemed to be due to shit fuel as the fuel pump looks like it was replaced at one point, it definitely wasn't a genuine Honda pump.

SO; Here is a list of tools that are required:

1. Phillips head screwdriver
2. Flat head screwdriver
3. 10MM Socket (Plus 10mm spanner)
4. 17MM Socket
5. Needle Nose Pliers
6. Normal Pliers (Optional)
7. WD40 (Optional)
8. Rags! (This is a must)
9. Container (Optional if you want to drain your fuel)
10. Jerry Can (Optional if you want to drain your fuel)

You will obviously need a new fuel pump which will come with:

• Pump
• Filter
• Retaining Clip for filter
• 2 Clips
• 1 Piece of hose

STEP 1


Park your car somewhere level grounded so your car is flat. Not on a hill or a slope etc.


Step 2


Open your bonnet and go and disconnect both of your battery terminals. They say you only need to remove your ground cable, but I do both just to be super secure. It only takes a few seconds anyway.





If your using OEM terminals, than the loosening nuts should me 10MM.


Some people say to remove the Fuel pump relay and start the car to remove pressure, but changing heaps of pumps before, I've never had a situation where it was needed.. Removing the fuel cap and poking that metal plate inside for a few seconds is adequate enough.

Just make sure that you don't do this right after driving your car. Make sure it's cooled down enough where you can touch the valve cover and its room temperature, not hot.. Not warm..

My rule of thumb is if I can place my hand on the oil sump without scalding myself within 30-40 seconds, than the car is fine to work on.


Step 3


Open your hatch and remove your parcel tray if you have one:




Next you want to find the 10mm bolt that holds your rear seats down. It's only one bolt in the centre:





You'll need a 10mm spanner for this as a socket won't go in there as there isn't enough clearance.


After you've removed that, you want to go into the car.

Make sure you recline both of your front seats forward and slide them forward.. This will give you some clearance to work comfortably.


Here is what the seat looks like once removed:




Here are the hooks that you need to wiggle out:







Step 4



Once you have jiggled out your rear seats, you should be left with this:




You want to start to removing the 4 phillips head screws on the top to remove the cover.


Once you have removed them, you will be left with this:



If you can see, there is the electrical plug with the rubber boot over it. Pull that rubber boot back and just unplug it.



At this point, it's a good idea to start spraying the 10mm nuts with WD40 including the big 17MM nut on the fuel line:





Have a smoke while you're waiting for the WD40 to penetrate:






So about 5 to 10 minutes has passed and the WD40 should have penetrated them nuts by now.

IMPORTANT

Before removing the 10mm nuts on the pump cover, you should remove the 17MM bolt on the fuel return line. The reason for this is if you try to do this while the cover is loose, you will lose leverage on the bolt which would make it extremely hard to take off.

So go ahead and remove that bolt (MAKE SURE YOU DON'T LOSE THE WASHERS! THERE SHOULD BE 2 OF THEM!:




Get ready after removing the bolt and washer because fuel will start to drain out, so make sure you have a rag to catch it:



After that, just remove the clip from the other fuel line and pull the line off, again, just use a rag to catch any excess fuel.


You should be left with this:




To pull the fuel pump assembly out, you just literally need to pull up and spin it counter clockwise (Might be different for every car depending on fuel pump/filter design). But this part is pretty straight forward.


Here is a comparison:



Left is new.
Middle is an aftermarket replaced pump/filter using Shell 98
Right is an OEM factory (20 year old) filter and pump using BP95/98

[tiksie]

Step 5

So you pulled out your pump and your ready to change it over to your new one.

Here is what you will be dealing with:



First you want to remove the clip holding the fuel line on, furthest away from the pump.


Next you pull off the grey clip on the plug, you just pull it up and it should come off:



Then remove the plug:




Next you want to pull the top of the pump off. To do this, you just loosen the rubber boot a bit and pull it away from the cradle, it will come off like so:




Making sure that the fuel line clip is remove, twist the fuel line off by pulling the pump away from the cradle, and the fuel pump assembly should come off:




NOTE: You don't need to disassemble the filter from the pump. I just did it for comparison photos.

If you DO want to remove it for whatever reason, you need to remove the retainer which holds the filter down, looks like this:




Here's a comparison of old vs new:





New pump vs old pump:





OPTIONAL STEP:


If at this point you want to remove the old fuel from the tank, all you need to do is simply get under the car (you don't even need to jack it up unless you have aftermarket springs and your car is low).

There's a 17mm bolt on the passenger side of the tank:



This is the drain plug for the fuel tank.

I removed it to drain all the old fuel out and this is what I was left with:







Step 6

So you're ready to put your new pump on.

Put both of your metal clips onto the fuel line on your new pump as it will be easier to slide it across from the rubber rather than trying to get it over the rubber once it's on, like so:



Put the line on:




Slide the clip over it:




Mount the rubber boot over the other end of the pump and put your filter on:



Remember the small retainer from before ? That needs to go over the center, over here, to hold the filter down:




And once you have done all of that, you should be left with this:





Step 7

All you need to do now is reverse the steps and place the new pump back inside.

After doing so, make sure everything is tight and clean of fuel. Check for leaks etc~

Go and install your terminals back on and put your car on accessories and listen for the fuel pump to prime..

Once it has primed, crank the car, it might take a few seconds the first time. After it has started, check for leaks and what not from where you have worked.


If you drained the tank from the bottom, just go and double check that there are no leaks.







And your done! Wasn't so hard, was it ?




For future reference, here is a comparison of fuel removed from 2 tanks, one running BP95 and the other running Shell 98:

[sensei_]

very good. +1 rep for you

[dorikin]

P.S 94+ Civics don't have a banjo bolt on the fuel line, it's a yellow plastic clip connector.

[tiksie]

P.S 94+ Civics don't have a banjo bolt on the fuel line, it's a yellow plastic clip connector.

That's odd, because this is a 95' EG.

Thanks though, will help others.

[Bludger]

you and your smoking while working on car pics again.

fuuuu

[tiksie]

^,,,,,,,,,,^

[MIKO_OL]

very goose ! didn't know the pump was actually just some absorbant stuff.

[simmy]

good writeup tiksie

[tiksie]

Finished. Enjoy.

[EKVTIR-T]

Goot effort m8

[_CRX_]

Don't tell me that fuel is from our local shell