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  1. #37
    awesome write up! i remember last time i did what you do and the rear LCA refused to bolt back in... car was stuck in the garage for a good two days. i ended up getting it back in by jacking the LCA up and whacked it with a mallet hard... i'll need to readjust my suspension again though.. any idea if the other LCA bolt would make it easier to reinstall?

  2. #38
    Sorry to bump old thread, but am in the middle of a similar install. When putting the stock fork and ring (that holds the brake line) to the koni strut, they just slide right up to the spring with nothing to stop them. I double checked I have the right part number. I can just tighten the pinch bolt up on the fork to the heigh that 'looks right' but this seems ghetto. Is there something I'm missing???

  3. #39
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2004
    Location
    www.alibaba.com
    Car:
    porsche boxster
    Quote Originally Posted by PJT View Post
    Sorry to bump old thread, but am in the middle of a similar install. When putting the stock fork and ring (that holds the brake line) to the koni strut, they just slide right up to the spring with nothing to stop them. I double checked I have the right part number. I can just tighten the pinch bolt up on the fork to the heigh that 'looks right' but this seems ghetto. Is there something I'm missing???
    There should be a notch where the bolt lines up with,that will align the height of the fork


    see on the red one,


  4. #40
    Ah, that make sense. thanks a lot! Is it strange that the brake line ring is 'free spinning' around the strut though?

  5. #41
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    sydney yo
    Car:
    green whip!
    on the shock body itself there should be inverted dents which you can slip the collar up to, it'll stay put as you're supposed to line up the little nub to the shock fork

  6. #42
    Mine's as smooth as a cheap vibrator. But the ring is sitting on top of the fork and the spike is in between the pinch, so should be ok. Just about the put the wheels back on before I roll it around then do final torque. Thanks for all your help, guys!

    Edit: My theory is that koni have updated the model line so this shock works with other makes and removed the bump in the process...
    Last edited by PJT; 17-12-2014 at 07:54 PM. Reason: my 2 c

  7. #43
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    sydney yo
    Car:
    green whip!
    could have gone cheaper and not bothered with the tooling anymore
    in any case it should be okay, i recall accidentally running without it for about a year until i realised i was supposed to transfer them off my old shocks

  8. #44
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2016
    Location
    USA
    Car:
    99 Civic
    I'm sorry to post on such a old thread but I was curious about something. I am doing the same set up and was told different things about the dust boot. Is it totally necessary? If anyone can help I'd appreciate it!

  9. #45
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    sydney yo
    Car:
    green whip!
    necessary to function? nope, it is however highly recommended to prolong the life of the shock though

  10. #46
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2006
    Location
    Melb
    Car:
    P1.5 460F/350R
    Quote Originally Posted by vinnY View Post
    necessary to function? nope, it is however highly recommended to prolong the life of the shock though
    lol m8
    S P A M | W O R K S
    With our special rotational tires, it will allow you to drive very fast. - JK Tyre

  11. #47
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    sydney yo
    Car:
    green whip!
    calm down i ran mine without dust boots until new ones arrives

  12. #48
    I'm fairly certain I don't run dust covers :/

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