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  1. #1
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Liverpool
    Car:
    civic coupe

    whats better, k20a or jap spec b18c

    just wondering before i do this project what would be the jap spec b18c be making at the wheels kw wise, and what would be the jap spec k20a be making at the wheels, does the b18c jap spec make 149kw at the engine, what would it be making atw, compare to the k20a, or the k20a would overall be a better performace base.

  2. #2
    b18c JDM ITR = about 100-110kw ATW ,has 147kw/172NM torque.
    K20a JDM would be about 120~kw ATW , has has 162kw/206NM torque.

    apart from the quite noticeable price difference* the K20 would be the logical way to go for more performance in every way.





    * a B18c in your car for example would be "about" $6-7k all up drive in drive out.
    A K20a in your car would be "about" $15k all up drive in drive out

  3. #3
    id go for the b series
    Chunky = the first youngest ozhonda member ever


    OZHONDA 4 LYFE!

  4. #4
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Syd
    Car:
    Stealth
    same.. not a big fan of k series to be honest

  5. #5
    Psssh, work your B16A and save the money for a better car later on
    Toda Racing AU | Shen * Speed Works | Jesse Streeter

  6. #6
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    City of Perth..
    Car:
    EK4 & Jazz VTI...
    Quote Originally Posted by DreadAngel View Post
    Psssh, work your B16A and save the money for a better car later on
    I agree. I am enjoying my B16 now and try to within budget make it faster. When i am ready(about 2-4yrs time), Upgrade to an STI and start the modding game again.

    I love Honda, but theres no harm trying more cars and more powerful cars that can bring u to higher levels. (I noe a K20 EG can beat a stock STI, but STI has 280hp to begin with and $5k can release more power rather easily compared to N/A.)

    Thats my opinion. However, I must stress that VTEC revs high and the top end is superior to any other engines that come stock. haha. Gd luck..

    Back to thread topic, get a B18C if u have to.. $6-$7k is reasonable. Add another $15k to ur car present value, assuming Ek4($10k??), $25k can bring u places dude. 2003 WRX is yours straight up. haha. Enjoy and make ur choice carefully.
    JDM Ek4 Squad Perth..
    Quote Originally Posted by Chi View Post
    Fact is you should get over ur EK4, cos its a POS FWD and its in the worse colour ever released.
    Get a real car then start bragging.

  7. #7
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2006
    Location
    Brisbane
    Car:
    60-POV
    B18C with bolt ons + tune 120-125kw
    K20A with bolt ons + tune 140-150kw

  8. #8
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Tai Land
    Car:
    Subaru Tai-berty
    vtir 4

    u have a good point but people need to understand that money put into a car is not an investment.

    but knowing u have something special is different.

    eg wid k series = animal !!!
    even if u wouldnt get your money back in d end !!!! u had fun wid it, people respected u for it. u cant get that in a stock 2003 wrx.

    but obvoisly everynoe thinks differently ... logically the best option for that money would be a wrx or sumthin but a car wid a k taht didnt cum wid a k is in my opinion better.

  9. #9
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2004
    Location
    syd
    Car:
    ek
    Quote Originally Posted by SLOWEGG View Post
    B18C with bolt ons + tune 120-125kw
    K20A with bolt ons + tune 140-150kw

    B18 + bolt ons = 12.9 (KRIS from melb)
    K20 + bolt ons = 12.3 (Paul from QLD)
    K24 + bolt ons = 12.2 (Yonas from India)
    12.949 @ 107.71mph
    2.063 60ft on Advan AD08
    EKK20A 142.9kw on 98ron

    its not called stance if you're on spacers..

  10. #10
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Sydney
    Car:
    EP3R>AH>EK>DC2
    to be honest it really depends on what car its going into, what the applications its going to be used for and most importantly BUDGET BUDGET BUDGET

    If it were going into lets say a EF and you were going to be using it for the lovely twisties (come on who doesnt go for twisties) id say go for the B because of the weight difference (unless your planning to put her on a massive diet) and the fact that it is alot cheaper

    If it were for the straight road then id say hell go for the K....(who needs turnability when youve got speed ) plus your in it for the win

    it all really depends what car its going in, what kind of suspension your going to be running and as stated above budget and most importantly FUNCTION

    remember you also have to consider the fact that the K series ways a bit more then the B...not too sure on the exact weight but i read its a couple a hundred pounds

    but then again you also have to think about the fact that the k series will probably achieve higher numbers with less modifying and pain

  11. #11
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Location
    Liverpool
    Car:
    civic coupe
    Quote Originally Posted by zco View Post

    B18 + bolt ons = 12.9 (KRIS from melb)
    K20 + bolt ons = 12.3 (Paul from QLD)
    K24 + bolt ons = 12.2 (Yonas from India)
    so wat would i pulling down the 400m if i just get drive in drive out k20

  12. #12
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    Dee Why
    Car:
    murcielago
    Quote Originally Posted by cuongn View Post
    so wat would i pulling down the 400m if i just get drive in drive out k20
    depends on how you setup your car, the condition of the car and engine is, and your driving style.
    with the right setup and good driving in the high-mid 12second.
    with a OK driving style in the low to mid 13s
    EG5 Powered by DR HONDA
    Tune By: Scott @ Insight Motorsport

    QSR Customs

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