Disclaimer: The following is provided as a GUIDE ONLY, and neither myself nor Ozhonda take any responsibility for the outcomes of someone else doing the following. You follow these steps at your own risk!

ALSO, this is purely a guide, something interesting to read. It is not intended to teach you everything in regards to tuning and chipping etc, but rather some good information about PW0 chipping (which isnt that easy to find). Read about tuning and chipping here: forum.pgmfi.org etc. DO ADDITIONAL READING BEFORE YOU DO ANY OF THIS!

Aim:
To setup a OBD0 PW0 out of a EF8 Crx Sir to accept chips and to be able to be datalogged (AKA Socketing). Basically the way hondata and crome work is that you pull apart a stock honda ecu and put a socket in them, and then burn information onto a chip. The chip contains information about how much fuel the injectors spray at certain times and ignition changes at certain times, also a number of other minor things like cold start fueling etc etc. So by socketing the ecu you can run custom information/maps... ie. tune your car by changing the values.

Tools and parts:
Tools:
10mm socket
Phillipshead screwdriver
Soldering iron (25w ish)
A pin
Tweezers
Maybe some clear nail polish

Parts:
PW0 Ecu
28 pin dip socket (just a normal socket)
28 pin zif socket (a socket you lock and unlock) [i think a low profile one is needed]
An IC/Chip/ROM (I used SST27SFS12 i think )
4 Pin header for datalogging (this is the same as the header on a soundcard where you connect those cables from the cd rom to)
A rom burner (i used moates iburn.. you could get someone to burn it for you though)
A USB interface datalogging hardware (not needed if u just want to chip)
Solder

Steps:
1) Remove the ecu from your car (you may wish to disconnect the battery first). It is located under the carpet at the passengers footwell. There is a golden metal protector with 4 nuts, then remove that and pull the plugs out of the ecu and remove the ecu.



2) Undo the screws on the front and the back to remove the covers. To expose the electronics.


3) Now from the above pic you should be able to see two arrows. The top arrow points where you want to install the 4 pin header, you can see there are 5 solder dots inside the square, they contain nothing, and you just want to install the header from pin 1 to pin 4. Here is a crappy pic of a header (has cable as well):


The bottom arrow points to the chip containing the fuel data etc which you want to remove and replace with a socket.

Ok, i did a lot of ****ing around trying to get the chip out and remove the solder from the the areas i wanted to put the header and DIP in.. this is my best found method.. (no need for solder suckers that dont work etc)

4) Ok, to remove the chip I pulled out the dremel with a cutting wheel and cut all the pins off one of chips sides (you can use a different cutting device obviously.. but be careful), i couldnt do the other side because of space. I then pulled the chip up and flexed it back and forth untill it broke from the other pins. You should then be left with the pins from the chip still soldered in the board.

5) Put the board up vertically, and with one hand trying to pull out the stuck in pin from the board with tweezers, get the other hand to use the soldering iron and put it on solder in the corresponding pin hole. The solder should liquify and you should be able to pull out the broken pin end. Do this for all pins. Here is a pic of the board once all the pins from the chip have been removed, notice there is still a bit of solder left in the holes.




6) So all the pins should be out but there will still be solder in the holes. You need to clear a hole through this solder so you can chuck in the DIP socket. The method I used and recommend is using a pin with a plastic ball head. Simply put the soldering iron on the solder in the pin hole, stick a pin into the hole and move it all around, in and out and around and remove the soldering iron but keep moving the pin to make a hole. Once the solder because solid then break off/remove any dangly bits. You should then be left with a hole big enough for a DIP socket to fit once all are done. Here is a pic with some holes done:



7) Now do the same with the first 4 pin holes for the datalogging header.


8) Now push in your DIP socket into the gap where the old chip was and solder all the pins (make sure none join) and do the same for the 4 pin header.
Below is an example of a DIP socket (the one on the right) and two ZIF sockets, and the blue one is low profile ZIF.


9) Push the ZIF socket into the DIP socket

10) Go and find a stock map (factory chip information) for your ecu, i presume PW0 JDM Stock map, find instructions for burning chips and burn the map onto a chip.

11) Push in the burnt chip into the ZIF socket (make sure the HALF circle points to the left so the chip is correctly orientated [in the pic it points to the right, but the pic is upside down ]) and push down the leaver to lock the chip into the ZIF.


12) Put the cover on the ecu and plug it back into the car and take it for a test drive.



Additional information:
I havent yet tested the USB datalogging yet. Chipping has worked fine so far, obviously if you tune your car you change the information you burn on the chip. Good luck and do some reading if you are interested!

AND I HOPE/GUESS MANY PEOPLE WILL CRITICISE OR SUGGEST OTHER METHODS.. proecu is my bitch