There is a lot of variation in the A/C lines and brake lines as they are bent and assembled by hand. Take 2 Euros and it is very likely that the AC and brake lines are routed with slight differences. I have seen one Euro that could not fit on the Cusco strut bar no matter how we moved the A/C line. We had to grind down the Cusco's mount.
i am on the verge of ginding my cusco a tad.
its slightly touching AC lines a bit, readjusted the best i could by loosening the two brackets so there is a slight gap. But my brakelines were slightly more annoying.
It is possible to adjust the installation of the ETD to reduce vibrations, i found at some stages vibration was quite bad and start up caused a shake through the car, adjusted slightly and it reduced it dramatically
Also found good clearance with the A/C lines etc in my euro they must all be slightly different as mentioned by aaron
It is possible to adjust the installation of the ETD to reduce vibrations, i found at some stages vibration was quite bad and start up caused a shake through the car, adjusted slightly and it reduced it dramatically
Also found good clearance with the A/C lines etc in my euro they must all be slightly different as mentioned by aaron
what setting are you running on yours?
i am running stock which it came in, the length is 14mm softest. the maximum setting is 10mm.
It is possible to adjust the installation of the ETD to reduce vibrations, i found at some stages vibration was quite bad and start up caused a shake through the car, adjusted slightly and it reduced it dramatically
Also found good clearance with the A/C lines etc in my euro they must all be slightly different as mentioned by aaron
I actually had to grind down 1.5cm worth of metal off the Ingalls bracket to clear my A/C lines!
bummer, i had to grind the side of the bracket cause it wouldnt have cleared the UR pulleys.
otherside on the chassis wasnt too bad only had to take precaution of the brakelines.
but yeh i'll see how it goes.
damn the ETD restricts you from removing the chassis to engine mount gounding wire cause its so phat.
unless you remove it or you have a slim socket extension.
btw aaron are you running the etd at the stiffest setting or softest?
Did some re-adjustments to ETD and made it a little softer and now the knocking sounds are gone. Unfortunately it isn't as responsive as before cos it's softer. It's really a trial and error exercise to get it right.
Definitely thinking about grinding the plate a little to clear the a/c lines, damn, taking it out is going to be a pain.
bummer, i had to grind the side of the bracket cause it wouldnt have cleared the UR pulleys.
otherside on the chassis wasnt too bad only had to take precaution of the brakelines.
but yeh i'll see how it goes.
damn the ETD restricts you from removing the chassis to engine mount gounding wire cause its so phat.
unless you remove it or you have a slim socket extension.
btw aaron are you running the etd at the stiffest setting or softest?
I left that grounding wire intact because it was good. You can always take the damper off and then take the engine mount bracket off to get at the ground wire.
I'm thinking of fitting one of these to my car and I've got UR pulleys installed. What damper & brackets do I need to get to ensure it fits?
lol crazy revive here
I ran the Ingalls ETD in my car (i think?) along with UR pulleys, youll face the same issue whether or not your running stock pulleys, AC compressor and lines rub against the bracket, solution = cut bracket back a bit
Yeah, time to break out the dremel. Just got a 2nd ingalls ETD kit just to replace the damper! About the same price compared to buying the damper unit on its own.
Dang that doesn't sound like an easy install at all. It'll take a fair bit of trial and error to get it right then.
Yeah it is but if you know this before hand then it's not so pita. I didnt until i realised there was some rubbing with the AC lines. Take your time and dont rush it.
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