Dxs's Gen1 RA3 Odyssey Build/Maintenance thread

[Dxs]

Just thought I would start a thread to keep a record of the changes to my car for future reference.

I have owned a number of honda's in the past (gen1 teg, EF8, city turbo 2, HRVs, GD3) and decided to get an odyssey as they are practical and allow me to throw my bicycles/body boards in the back or even sleep in the back, and should be ok on fuel and are simple enough.

Mine is a Generation 1, 1998 RA3 - In 98 they came with the F23a engine (same as 6th Gen/CG5 Accord), before that they had non vtec F22 same as the CD Accord. The engine bay is basically the same as a CD Accord so there are parts and modding options available.




Unfortunately, unknown to me, when I got it the auto transmission was bad. The auto transmissions attached to F23A engines are known to die early, so I decided to convert it to manual. I bought a CD5 Accord donor to do the conversion. Basically it now has a CD Accord gearbox, gearbox mount and driveshafts and has a Wilwood pedal with a modded DC teg master with a custom line and is running on a CG5 (6th Gen) Accord manual ecu. Here is the write up if interested : http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...nversion-Guide



There are a few things I have to fix up, like issues with VSS over 80kmph, some oil leaks, high fuel usage issue and interior around the shifter. Beyond that I will probably only do minor mods.

[Dxs]

So the engine mounts were broken (car has 170,000 so is no surprise). Also the rear mount in these odyssey's has a vacuum line running to them that makes them go stiff under load- I had to remove this vacuum line as it got in the way of the shifter cables which I believe means the rear mount is always soft. So a soft rear mount and busted other mounts made the engine move a bit.

To solve this I bought a new generic rear mount that is solid and not vacuum actuated:



And I removed the gearbox mount and used the front mount and timing belt side mount from the donor CD accord AND filled them with polyurethane.
Taped one side of the mount and filled them with 55A hardness polyurethane from solid solutions.




I installed these all today and makes a lot of difference. A lot more precise now. Very minor rattle at some points but hardly noticeable - probably because I didn't fill the rear mount which is the one that would have caused dash rattle if filled.



GB side: Removed battery and just undid it all - used jack when reinstalling to get it in place.
Front: Removed one of the rad fans - then undid bracket and swapped it.
Timing belt side: Easy to remove, to install just jacked up engine (there is a bit of the block near the corner of a sump that I jacked it from)
Rear mount: Removed intake pipe, moved charcoal canister thing, undid intake manifold bracket and uncliped o2 sensor, removed oil filter - then undid the bracket and mount and somehow jimmied the bracket out of the away and pulled the mount out from the top.

[Dxs]

I bought some OEM window visors from yahoo auctions (not installed yet) and at the same time found a nice JDM OEM grill.

Finally painted it today (will install soon).

[bennjamin]

Looking forward to ultra clean slightly lowered modded oddessy.
I recall hitting 200km/h ( on the track ofcourse) fairly quickly - they go pretty good !

EDIT now that I remember it was actually a 2nd gen - no wonder it went well it was the v6. Still , cool car.

[Dxs]

Looking forward to ultra clean slightly lowered modded oddessy.
I recall hitting 200km/h ( on the track ofcourse) fairly quickly - they go pretty good !

EDIT now that I remember it was actually a 2nd gen - no wonder it went well it was the v6. Still , cool car.

Gen2's had the option of the F23a or the J30 V6. The v6 model weighs about 100kg more than the gen1 but about 20% more torque. If you could get a manual J box in Australia, a manual conversion on one with a J37 swap from an MDX would be cool (+65kw and +100nm).

But anyway, I don't have big plans for the car - just get it reliable - this log is just really for my own reference in the future. But a common swap is a H22/23 as it is pretty easy swap given the front of the car is basically a CD accord.

[Jasemas]

Looks good man
Finally got over them ecu issues im guessing?

[Dxs]

Looks good man
Finally got over them ecu issues im guessing?

Yeah, I was intially using a USDM ecu - but eventhough the CG5 accord is made in the USA there are a number of differences (US have two o2 sensors, have an ELD, EGR stuff is different) so was throwing codes and EGR was making a weird noise. AUDM CG5 ecu seems all ok.

[Dxs]

Made a basic shifter surrounds the other day. Basically a CD accord surrounds and some of the plasic that goes to the CD accord middle storage box but flipped the other way. With rubber on the back to clear the handbrake. Does the job.

Also have put this up for sale, which is probably a thing I will regret :
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...29#post3977229

[Dxs]

So RA3's ECU are OBD2B. The ecu I am using is from a CG5 accord which is also OBD2B. Bought a cheap OBD2 to Bluetooth Adapter, as the RA3's do not have the standard OBD2 port I also got a 3pin to OBD2 port adapter (alot of early obd2 hondas have this 3pin - and later models have the regualr obd2 port).

The adapter powers on and connects to my phone via bluetooth, but unfortunately the adapter is not syncing with my ECU. But this was kinda expected, because most 6th Gen accord forum threads on this matter also say they aren't successful. Hopefully the wiring is just off (and its not that the ECU uses a weird protocol), I am also wondering if CG5's came with the OBD2 port and not the three pin like the RA3 does (but in saying that, jumping the 2 pin allows codes to flash on the cluster - so it seems to be working in that regard). I think my plan is to goto a wrecker one day and get a OBD2 port and just wire it directly to the ECU (but no rush at all).



Also used my first proper tank of fuel so worked out the fuel economy. This was mainly suburban driving with some typical 80kmph city driven hwy - some of it was with 5 adults and a number of redlines and small drives when cold.
480.6KM 52.3L = 10.9L per 100km
So that is not too bad given redbook says urban driving is 11L per 100. And the KM's are probably understated as the RA3 has 65 profile tyres vs the 60 profile of the CD Accord EXI which the gearbox is from.
I wonder if I can get sub 8L on pure hwy driving.


Also replaced the vtec solenoid gaskets. Have done these before on a B16 - on the F23a7 they are a bit more of a **** as they are on the intake manifold side, and injectors/egr etc etc are in your way. To undo the outside top bolt you need a thin socket and a couple of small wobble extensions, spanners do not work as they are too thick. The other top side and bottom bolt can be undone after undoing some stuff for spanner access.
See below:

[Dxs]

KKMOON Rear Wiper Delete Kit Block Off Plug Cap for Honda O-ring Seal Black

Specifications:
Fitment:
for Integra 1990-2001
for Honda Civic Si 2002~2005
for Acura RSX 2002~2006
(NOT fit 1992~1995 Civic Hatchback.)

Seems to fit ok.
(sucks about the dent next to it)

I also replaced the rear badge a while back with one off a JDM RA6 Prestige. (found it in a wrecker).