[CU2] Accord Euro - Focal speaker upgrade

**Paulius18** · 20-12-2011 05:54 PM

i found amplifier, in the drunk, at the right under carpet

**Neilz** · 13-02-2012 02:03 PM

Just gotta say nice setup - but to the OP Q:

- Was it not possible to do a replacement with the tweeter in the car rather then create a hole in the door for the Focal Tweeter? - Reason i ask is that i do not want to cut or alter the door in any way bust just do a direct replacement of parts...

Cheers and thanks for the continous updates on this...

EDIT: all good found it:-

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...=1#post2903547

**Shuuyuki** · 06-09-2012 07:18 PM

Hi guys, i would like instructions on how to remove the front door panels to get to the speakers.
if anyone can guide me or link me a video it would be great! thanks

**steeler** · 31-05-2013 07:36 AM

http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...interior-panel

**steeler** · 25-06-2013 02:06 AM

Originally Posted by JustRight

Having done all of this work myself I know how valuable wiring diagram information can be. I used these diagrams to correctly identify the input and output wiring colour codes for the Panasonic Amplifier in the boot of my CU2.

Can you please explain what the A1, B16, C7, D18 etc. means?

**Vapochilled** · 04-08-2016 08:23 AM

Hello guys!

Sorry I need to bring this thread back to life and wait that ... hopefully... one of you masters can hint me with something.
I'm from Europe, I have the Honda Accord Cu2 == similar == to Acura TSX I believe. The car is the 2008 version onwards.

1. I've upgraded all my speakers to Focal (all the 6 speakers: front, rear doors and rear shelter)
2. The front doors are the ones with tweeters / crossovers - The most entry focal level but still nice
3. I've upgraded my SUB shelter to JL Audio 8W3v3
4. I've applied Dynamat all over the shelter + some sound foam - still a lot of rattles

5. Since the Head Unit only sends 1Pre-Amp (Left / Right) + Data (?!?!) to the OEM Amp, there is no way to get the signal before amplified.
6. Additional AMP added: FD 4.350
7. The above AMP support high signal inputs. Thefore, I've connected the OEM AMP OUTs of Front speakers + SUB out to the FD4.350 IN's
8. The FD 4.350 is know for low voltage usage. No battery power cable was added. Instead I've re-used the OEM AMp Power and split to the Focal AMp
9. System worked flawless for 1 year. Suddenly died / sound is fuzzy / poor quality when raised

Debug:
10. Removed the Focal AMP. Other speakers seem to work (the ones not connected to Focal AMP)
11. FOcal AMP is working. Tested in other vehicle
12. Without doing anything even the speakers connected to OEM AMP started to make noise.
13. Even with low volume, if I increase the SUB from -6 to +6 (even without any SUB connected - because remember that only rear speakers + shelter are on) the sound goes like fully scratched
14. So, Focal is not there, therefore, SUB and front speakers are not connected at all. But.. messing in the head unit with Bass and SUB levels scratch the sound of the normal speakers?
15. I left the car in this state - my grandmother is in the hospital - heart issues - Suddenly this week, the sound seems ok again on those speakers! I can mess with levels of bass and SUB sound looks ok on rear speakers.
16. Note that Focal AMP is still of. I left the car only with rear door speakers connected. Something its ok... sometimes its not - :humf:\

Questions:
15. Is it the Head Unit damaged ?
16. I already got a spare OEM AMP from a friend. I will try to swap it. What do you think?
17. I don't think its a fuse problem or so, because I ALWAYS had sound. Just, either its ok, or sounds bad. So, I don't think its a fuse topic. I needs to be 15. or 16. topic.
18. I got a Audison 8.9 Prima Sound (8 channels) + DSP . This will work as amp and DSP. Its pretty small and it was an awesome price: 399. That's also why I haven't touched the car. Waiting to have time to do it.
19. Audison Bit 8.9 supports high input levels. Should I use again the outputs of the OEM amp and then use the DSP also of the Bit 8.9 to clean as much as possible the poor OEM quality ? This audison doesn't even have RCAs.... ! Its really for these cases.
20. Should I pass a cable from battery + Firewall to the rear for the amp?
21. Where do you connect the negative (earth) ? Do you scratch the metal in the trunk and place it there?
22. What should I do with the JL Sub? The shelter rattles even in dry bass house music or jazz. I already applied the dynamat. This sub was also a mistake. I believe this is not a Airfree Sub for our trunk metal shelter.
23. I was trying to avoid place a SUB in the trunk because I like to have space for the bike or IKEA furniture

What if I change the shelter speakers by 2x 16cm woofers and sell the JL ?
24. Or, what if I try to apply some foam box around the JL to try to create a small box?
25. Or what if I just quit the JL, sell it, keep the speakers and place under seat Subwoofers like the new Alpine V80 ?

Thank you all!
Waiting for you inputs

**iv-78** · 17-09-2016 02:26 AM

Hello.....
sorry for my English, I write from Italy.

I wanted to ask a question:
PAC-SOEM4 you have connected to cables coming from the radio or to those leaving the PANASONIC amplifier.?

thanks for your invaluable help
bye

**Fredoops** · 18-09-2016 04:53 PM

I don't know much about car audio myself but I would've thought some sort of DSP is needed if you're using amped signal as input no?

The PAC Soem4 goes before the amp.

**iv-78** · 21-09-2016 11:24 PM

Thanks Fredoops.!

you know what the cables before the amplifier.? to connect the PAC-SOEM 4.......
(I can not find the specific service manual for HONDA ACCORD CU).
Thanks for your help.!!