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  1. #13
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    CD5 & GE6
    There was a recall on the rear wheel bearings for the jazz
    You've gone through more accords than I changed underwear this month! - Sugz

    www.OzAccord.net/forum

  2. #14
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    CD5 & GE6
    Or tsb
    one of those
    You've gone through more accords than I changed underwear this month! - Sugz

    www.OzAccord.net/forum

  3. #15
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    16 Wilkins St E Annerley
    Car:
    Toyota Soarer
    Quote Originally Posted by Jasemas View Post
    There was a recall on the rear wheel bearings for the jazz
    Quote Originally Posted by Jasemas View Post
    Or tsb
    one of those
    Hope yours is ok
    Users I've upset: EKVTIR-T | Renaissance_x | Integra-GSi | Stevil | vteckiller | dyln_bxtr | zedries | joyride | eren | Brian FD2R | AusS2000 | amant02 - II | CRXDEL501 | Indie | UiK | mnc | neut

  4. #16
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Location
    The Guy Next Door, Lol.
    Car:
    KSWAPPED STi -R
    My bet is on Gearbox issue op.

    S mode just tends to hold the gears for longer. Example, your going uphill and don't want the car to die down easily. Shift into S.

    D will cycle through all the gears normally.

    If the engine is working fine on a gearbox setting which stress's the engine out, it should work fine on D.

    Therefore Something wrong with the gearbox?

    Take it to a Honda Specialist instead of blowing money on trail and error at home.

  5. #17
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Oct 2011
    Location
    16 Wilkins St E Annerley
    Car:
    Toyota Soarer
    Quote Originally Posted by LRAT View Post
    Update:
    We've gone through two complete flushes of the CVT with Honda CVT fluid and have about done another 1000 km
    The gearbox has been reset.
    We are using the premium unleaded fuel (95 RON) and have replaced airfilter.
    The problem is still there. The car is basically undriveable in "D"-position but drives rather well in "S"-position, although the occasionally cutout happens. When the momentarily loss of power or jerking happens I can't see the speedo or tacho dropping, so, that indicates there is no problem with the power supply to the electronics.
    Once again the jerking only happens when driving on a staright around 40 to 60 km/h and applying light throttle or going uphill and try to compensate for speed by pushing the throttle.
    I think I will replace coil packs and spark plugs next. it seems this is a common problem with the Jazz as well.
    Whilst I'm doing this I might also replace the rear wheel bearings as they seem to make a humming noice at speed.
    We are rather dissapointed with our purchase. I always had Honda motorbikes and found them the most reliable on the market. I have to reconsider my thoughts about their cars.
    Thanks for all your advice so far.
    Can anybody recommend a good OBD2 scanner for this car?
    You can get a cheap obd 2 scanner from eBay that is Bluetooth.

    Connect the obd2 scanner to your phone using Bluetooth, and then download an app called torque.

    Will clear codes, read codes, gauges for water temp, oil temp ect
    Users I've upset: EKVTIR-T | Renaissance_x | Integra-GSi | Stevil | vteckiller | dyln_bxtr | zedries | joyride | eren | Brian FD2R | AusS2000 | amant02 - II | CRXDEL501 | Indie | UiK | mnc | neut

  6. #18
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Location
    Perth
    Car:
    CD5 & GE6
    My GE is fine
    it was the gd chassis that had the rear wheel bearing tsb
    You've gone through more accords than I changed underwear this month! - Sugz

    www.OzAccord.net/forum

  7. #19
    I have exactly the same problem. I had bad cvt shudder but resolved with flush and reset (and oil extreme).

    I suspect its a misfire and due to faulty coil. In S, the alternator is delivering more charge to electrical system. Will let you know how I go.

  8. #20
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Sep 2014
    Location
    Melbourne
    Car:
    Jazz 2003 CVT
    Hi all,

    Thanks for your input.
    I have now the problem solved.
    Here's what I did:

    I replaced the gearbox with a secondhand but guaranteed good condition gearbox. The problem was exactly the same!

    So, this took me to my last option: The coil pack.
    I replaced the 4 coils at the back with secondhand ones. Whilst I was doing this I also replaced the spark plugs.
    Took it for a road test and the car was driving perfectly! All smooth, better acceleration and most importantly, no jerking anymore.
    I bought 4 secondhand coils for $150.00 all in instead of $320.00 per unit as quoted by the Honda stealer.
    There was no visible damage to see on the coils. All sparkplugs looked identical, so, I still don't know which coil played up.
    I am of the opinion the coils must break down internally once they are warm/and under load.

    Hopefully this information will be helpful to Jazz owners.

  9. #21
    Member Array
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    WA
    Car:
    EP3R
    those damned coilpacks! FYI if you are not into secondhand ones, Repco does them for $90 per hit.
    Never argue with idiots, they bring you down to their level and beat you with experience.

  10. #22
    Newcomer Array
    Join Date
    Nov 2014
    Location
    Good Coast
    Car:
    Rb3 odyssey
    Hey mate,
    What's usually found with this style of coil pack is the extension tube fails. Also we found this with both my own jazz and my mums!!

    When checking the coil while out of the vehicle all could packs can test and look fine.
    What we commonly find is the extension tube fails due to heat and age and the spark will jump to the plug tube bypassing the spark plug.

    A quick fix/diag method is the remove the coils and wrap the extension tube very well with good quality electrical tape.

    This will insulate the extension tube allow the current to continue to the plug.

    Hope this helps!

  11. #23
    Glad you got it sorted! See my post above - I replaced all coils - but no change .

    Was thinking about a new (used) trans but saddened by your failed attempt. Might try the plugs and another flush - I really like the car but might have to get rid of it.

  12. #24
    Got a new tranny - fixed.

    Would recommend anyone with judder do the following:

    Change trans fluid; ~$90
    Clean EGR valve; ~$10
    Replace spark plugs; ~$120
    Replace coilpacks (ebay ones are ok) ~$150

    And if all this fails your tranny is screwed. I beleive that it was not just transmission problems for me originally so dont feel I have wasted anything but some cvtf.

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