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  1. #1
    Member Array
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    Jul 2004
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    Brisbane now Seattle
    Car:
    Was '04 Accord Euro, GP

    [Euro] DC Header - Installed

    Well yesterday I installed the DC Header. Let’s just say it was a f***n biatch to remove the original exhaust manifold even after using penetrant oil/spray. The torque specs for installing the nut’s and bolts are 33lb.ft, makes me wonder if Honda Japan used any anti-seize lube when they assembled the exhaust to the engine. Obviously they never envisaged the exhaust manifold being removed in the life of the car.



    I used the DC instructions, and DC install review from vtec.net to accomplish the install.

    Removing the heat shield. All three bolts can be accessed from the top.





    Removing the O2 sensor wasn’t too bad but removing the nuts to the cat was quite hard in such limited confines, but once they were off it was easy to undo the two spring bolts that attach the lower section to the top and remove the bottom of the OEM manifold.



    Original Extractor showing spring bolts and and mounting bracket





    View inside OEM CAT





    4-1 Collector







    From then is where the trouble starts. I had to first remove the bracket that secures the end of the top manifold to the engine block so there was enough room to loosen the bottom right bolt that connects the manifold to the head. The bracket bolts were quite firmly locked and took much grunting and cursing until I had them off. Next as hard as I tried I wasn’t able to break the bind of that bottom right bolt. So swearing I began to think this might’ve been a job for a professional exhaust company.



    Working from the top with an 18” breaker bar and 14mm socket I had to use all my weight and strength in a controlled manner to loosen the two top nuts, and two bottom bolts that can be accessed from there. The amount of force I had to use felt more like 80-100lb.ft before I could get the smallest of rotation out of them. But eventually after much swearing, grunting and skinned knuckles I had them off. The same went for the bottom right bolt, although it’s harder to get sufficient leverage when under the car.



    Original manifold removed at long last. Exhaust gasket to be reused





    Exhaust port





    Before doing any of this I’d sprayed a light coating of aluminium silver high temperature engine paint over the few scratched and worn areas of the ceramic coat on the DC header. I also wrapped both top and bottom sections in old t-shirts as recommended by the install guides I used.



    After wiping off the penetrant spray from the manifold gasket, nut’s, bolts and flange surfaces, I coated all threaded areas of the nuts, bolts, and studs with non-metallic anti-seize compound, and installed the 4-2 section of the new header followed by the 2-1 section. The install really was much easier than the removal.



    4-2 section installed





    2-1 section installed





    O2 Sensor – Completed Install (Wire angle is not as sharp as it appears)





    Completed Install





    I started the engine up and let it run until the fans kicked in. It immediately started to smoke and stink, and the engine paint I’d used turned brown and smoked. I checked the header to head, 4-2 2-1 flange, and flex pipe to cat joins and none of them leaked. After about 10 mins it stopped smoking, and the engine paint had baked on and was back to being the same colour as the rest of the header.



    From the test drive it seems to rev more freely and have a bit more pull. There’s also an audible “hiss” that starts around 2500-3000rpm at more than 20% throttle from the header. I’ve also heard this when driving baboo’s car with the Maxim Works header installed. This is the first aftermarket header I’ve ever had in a car so I gather the hissing is a by-product of having properly tuned runners creating harmonics. No one ever seems to talk about the hissing type noise, and if it is uncommon I’ll have to have a look under the car again, but I don’t think it’s a problem. It’s not too intrusive anyway and only apparent if I’m driving more like a normal person and less like an old lady .



    All up I’m happy with the end result and will get a dyno run as soon as I can.

  2. #2
    Team YCD President Array
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    Honbaru Yum Cha
    Well done... This write up will be good for the rest of us who have DC Sports Headers on the way .....
    146.8Kws @ Wheels Diesel CL9 Euro (SOLD), 2009 Honda VT Shadow, NC PRHT Mazda MX-5, Boxing SG Forester, Honda Civic Sport
    RenaultSport RS265 Trophy+

    Team Yum Cha Daily - The Dim Sum Revolution

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  3. #3
    Member Array
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    Quote Originally Posted by EuroAccord13
    Well done... This write up will be good for the rest of us who have DC Sports Headers on the way .....
    I hope so There's already enough info on the technical side of the install so I've tried to give it a more "personal" flavour.

  4. #4
    Needs more time... Array
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    Nice!

    Can we move this to the Articles forum please?
    Got a question? Check out the FAQ - http://www.ozhonda.com/go/faq

  5. #5
    Memory oF A PIMP'n Euro Array
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    Sep 2004
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    Perth, W.A
    Car:
    Bavarian Motor Works
    Definetly Top Writeup Matell...

    If u had the choice again.. Would u DIY.. or let an exhaust shop to fit it??

  6. #6
    how much louder is it inside the cabin now?

  7. #7
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    Would I do it again? Yes I personally would as I know I've got adequate antiseize on the bolts, plus it was a learning experience and my knuckles didn't need the skin on them anyway .



    However if I were doing it on another persons car I'd try one bolt on the manifold and if it wouldn't budge I'd probably recommend them taking it to a shop. It's not a hard or complex install to perform at all. Just required a lot of physical exertion in my case and a lot of doubts that I'd ever get the blasted bolts off. For a period of frustration I considered re-fitting the base section of the OEM system, and booking it in at a shop. But I was stubborn and eventually won.



    As for the noise from my brief 2km test drive I really don't have many comments to make on it based on how fatiguing or encroaching it is. It's not as bad or anywhere near as loud as a CAI or exhaust, but depending on your throttle position the hiss is definately obvious. In terms of overall volume if you're just cruising it's not really any louder than normal. If there is any increase in volume it probably comes from the removal of the heatshield. I'll be able to comment more after my long drive to work tomorrow.

  8. #8
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    Jan 2004
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    Adelaide, SA
    Car:
    EKD
    I heard DC sports werent too good on Hondas ... well according to the yanks.. I was gonna get some but decided not too aftering reading up and doin a lil research...

    aslong as it works out for u tho..

    do u have an exhaust on the car also? did it make your car louder at all?

  9. #9
    Team YCD President Array
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    Honbaru Yum Cha
    Matell, did you do it on a hoist or used axle stands?

    Coz when mine arrives, I'll be doing it with the good ol Axle Stands in my driveway LOL...

    If you did it on axle stands, how high did u have to take the car up before you went under and started work on it?

    CHEERS
    Nick
    146.8Kws @ Wheels Diesel CL9 Euro (SOLD), 2009 Honda VT Shadow, NC PRHT Mazda MX-5, Boxing SG Forester, Honda Civic Sport
    RenaultSport RS265 Trophy+

    Team Yum Cha Daily - The Dim Sum Revolution

    OzHonda's Public Relations Guru

  10. #10
    Member Array
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    Apr 2004
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    wagga wagga
    Car:
    CD5 vti-s
    Nice write up.....gee that 4 into 1 collector on the OEM manifold looks a bit dodgy lol.

    Do u have to reset the ecu for the engine to adjust to the header?

  11. #11
    Member Array
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    Was '04 Accord Euro, GP
    Well today I must say after my drive to and from work the volume and 'hiss' can be kept under control via normal driving. When above 15% throttle I think now with a little bit of load on the engine you'll hear the hiss. I opened a window and it sounds a little odd combined with my CAI. My butt dyno says I've reclaimed the torque lost below 3000rpm from when I added my CAI, and the throttle is smoother, mor responsive, and has eliminated some of the jerkiness down very low. When you blat the throttle it also feels a bit more like an alsatian tugging at it's leash as opposed to a cattle dog. Oh yeah and stock exhaust.

    I did the install using jackstands. I've got an 1800kg trolley jack that I used to raise the car from the front centre jacking point to its maximum extension, and then slid both jack stands under the two front-side jacking points. I was able to raise the stands one notch so I had over 30cm of clearance. Still pretty tight.

    Yep I reset the ECU just out of good practice. Disconnected the battery before I started, then reconnected it once I'd finished the install and the car still on the jackstands and started it up without touching the throttle until the fans kicked in. Then I test drove it hard.

    I had a heap of penetrating oil on all the bolts. I'd suggest putting oil on about a week before doing the install if you could, and then put more on every few days. If you can get a 1/2" drive socket in 14mm, combined with an extendable tyre iron that gives you about 2ft of leverage I think it'd be easier. You'd just have to be very careful to support the neck and socket or else you'll have rounded bolts which isn't good.

  12. #12
    Member Array
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    wagga wagga
    Car:
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    ahh, theres nothing like the the pain (cut knuckles with grime in them) and pleasure of making your car go faster by bolting on goodies.

    Once you get past the point of no return you sometimes pray that everything will go back together like it should lol.

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