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unity
31-05-2009, 08:25 PM
Does anyone know if you can open the windows on the CU2 via the remote like you can on the previous model?

Don't know. But if you have a CU2 why not give it a go!!!

Joystick
31-05-2009, 09:42 PM
Don't know. But if you have a CU2 why not give it a go!!!

Tried holding down the unlock but no luck. I assume that's how it worked on the older model? :o

aaronng
31-05-2009, 09:46 PM
Yup, then maybe they removed the feature on the CU2.

unity
31-05-2009, 10:02 PM
Tried holding down the unlock but no luck. I assume that's how it worked on the older model? :o

Yes on the CL9 to open windows you press the unlock botton once. This unlocks the doors. Then you press and hold the unlock button and the windows will open.

aaronng
31-05-2009, 10:05 PM
On mine, I just press it once and keep it held down to open the windows.

Joystick
31-05-2009, 10:09 PM
Hrm, tried several combinations and nothing worked. Is this a lux only feature?

unity
31-05-2009, 10:23 PM
Hrm, tried several combinations and nothing worked. Is this a lux only feature?

My CL9 is standard. Only draw back is that you can't close the windows in the same way.

denot
31-05-2009, 11:20 PM
er... so why is this function even exist... For me, it looks like a factory fault... :p I prefer the window auto close when you lock the car :thumbsup:

unity
31-05-2009, 11:33 PM
er... so why is this function even exist... For me, it looks like a factory fault... :p I prefer the window auto close when you lock the car :thumbsup:

That would be a good feature too. But comes in handy if you are parked out on a picnic and you want to open your windows just a bit for ventilation.
Also find it useful on very hot days to open up all the windows to let all the hot air escape before I get in and drive off.

denot
31-05-2009, 11:39 PM
Just want to share something that I found: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdfynJm0h1Y

NOTE: that is not my car :p

unity
31-05-2009, 11:51 PM
Just want to share something that I found: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdfynJm0h1Y

NOTE: that is not my car :p

It's great what people can do with their cars. Wouldn't it be distracting for the driver though?

euromandeluxe
01-06-2009, 03:55 AM
Yes on the CL9 to open windows you press the unlock botton once. This unlocks the doors. Then you press and hold the unlock button and the windows will open.

same for my car and mum's. its basically a click, release, then hold.

maybe yours is dodgy aaron :P

aaronng
01-06-2009, 08:42 AM
same for my car and mum's. its basically a click, release, then hold.

maybe yours is dodgy aaron :P

Mine has a short delay after unlocking but the windows wind down after without lifting my thumb off the button. The problem with mine is a lazy owner. :p

Joystick
01-06-2009, 08:02 PM
Just want to share something that I found: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdfynJm0h1Y

NOTE: that is not my car :p

LOL! Probably fury's car, where are the transformers!? :D

Spock1au
01-06-2009, 10:38 PM
Just want to share something that I found: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdfynJm0h1Y

NOTE: that is not my car :p

Wow. There's just no accounting for taste is there? :eek::thumbdwn:

moo moo nel
01-06-2009, 10:44 PM
Hi all

My brother just pickup his silver CU2 basic manual last week
he is having exams at the moment so I get to drive his car till first service

Today I took the stock 17" rims off and found out...

they are manufactured by Enkei using the MAT technology :p

nxn75u
11-06-2009, 10:49 AM
Hi all,

just got a quick question here. My CU2 is on its 5000km soon and i was wondering if there is a need to go for a 5000km service which includes changing the oils etc?

thx in advance guys!

dj_s2k
11-06-2009, 09:41 PM
Just want to share something that I found: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rdfynJm0h1Y

NOTE: that is not my car :p

ZOMG dood doesn't deserve to drive a CU2 ! Matter of fact stay the f%$# away from Honda if he's planning on doing stuff like that. I'd say Hyundai Excel would be a better choice :confused:

Sludge
12-06-2009, 08:50 PM
Hi all,

just got a quick question here. My CU2 is on its 5000km soon and i was wondering if there is a need to go for a 5000km service which includes changing the oils etc?

thx in advance guys!

10,000 or 6 months.

tony1234
13-06-2009, 09:25 AM
ZOMG dood doesn't deserve to drive a CU2 ! Matter of fact stay the f%$# away from Honda if he's planning on doing stuff like that. I'd say Hyundai Excel would be a better choice :confused:
That dickhead(furythree)used to be a member here.He's the guy that stuck transformer stickers and did various other stupid mods to his CU2.everyone here gave him heaps and he left.

nickxau
13-06-2009, 08:46 PM
Hi all,

just got a quick question here. My CU2 is on its 5000km soon and i was wondering if there is a need to go for a 5000km service which includes changing the oils etc?

thx in advance guys!

Can't remember the exact words but in the log book it says something like "if your driving patterns are different" (and they list them) then they recommend that you do a supplementary service. One of those conditions is true for me so I did a 5,000km service. The service manager seemed hesitant but I got the oil and filter changed - yes I know, some people will think that's unnecessary but I did it anyway, it made me (and my car) feel good! :D From here on, I'm just gonna stick to the scheduled servicing.

Oh, my point: do what you feel is right for your car. :thumbsup:

Spock1au
14-06-2009, 12:10 PM
That dickhead(furythree)used to be a member here.He's the guy that stuck transformer stickers and did various other stupid mods to his CU2.everyone here gave him heaps and he left.

Transformer stickers????????:eek::eek::eek::thumbdwn:
Sounds like a bit of a nob.

nxn75u
14-06-2009, 12:28 PM
Can't remember the exact words but in the log book it says something like "if your driving patterns are different" (and they list them) then they recommend that you do a supplementary service. One of those conditions is true for me so I did a 5,000km service. The service manager seemed hesitant but I got the oil and filter changed - yes I know, some people will think that's unnecessary but I did it anyway, it made me (and my car) feel good! :D From here on, I'm just gonna stick to the scheduled servicing.

Oh, my point: do what you feel is right for your car. :thumbsup:

yea i thought that changing oil every 5000km is better as some says that it is more beneficial for your engine and im afraid that the pinging issues will also affects the conditions of the machine.

Yup do whats right for your car!

nxn75u
14-06-2009, 12:33 PM
ZOMG dood doesn't deserve to drive a CU2 ! Matter of fact stay the f%$# away from Honda if he's planning on doing stuff like that. I'd say Hyundai Excel would be a better choice :confused:

Maybe hes just got a different taste... but a wierd taste indeed... i saw him once in waterloo and his car really stands out! i was staring at the car the whole time at the traffic light...

buddah51au
27-06-2009, 08:09 PM
Can't remember the exact words but in the log book it says something like "if your driving patterns are different" (and they list them) then they recommend that you do a supplementary service. One of those conditions is true for me so I did a 5,000km service. The service manager seemed hesitant but I got the oil and filter changed - yes I know, some people will think that's unnecessary but I did it anyway, it made me (and my car) feel good! :D From here on, I'm just gonna stick to the scheduled servicing.

Oh, my point: do what you feel is right for your car. :thumbsup:

If you do most of your driving in a built up area where stop start diving is common it is highly beneficial to change your oil every 5,000km ( especially if you use mineral oil). If you look in your owners handbook it says under severe driving conditions it is recommended to change oil every 5,000km, stop start city driving is considered severe driving conditions. Most mineral oils tend to start breaking down around 7 to 8,000km. 100% of my driving is secondary rural roads with some light town work & I religiously change oil & filter every 5,000km which comes around every 10 to 11 weeks. Sure it may be overkill in some peoples views, but if I was to completely strip my engine down after 200,000 km & compare it to an engine of the same milage that stuck to 10,000 km oil change intervals you would be amazed at the difference.
My Suggestion is if you wish to stick with 10,000km oil change intervals use a full synthetic oil, but that will cost you more than double the price of mineral oil.

BatRambo
27-06-2009, 08:53 PM
Hi all,

just got a quick question here. My CU2 is on its 5000km soon and i was wondering if there is a need to go for a 5000km service which includes changing the oils etc?

thx in advance guys!

I would say first oil change is good to be made on 10K as your car is filled with special factory oil that helps and protects the engine in first 10K. (this is what I have been told by few ppl when I ask same question should I change my oil on 5K)

After you change your oil on 10K you can change it every 5K which is good for your car.

buddah51au
27-06-2009, 09:23 PM
I would say first oil change is good to be made on 10K as your car is filled with special factory oil that helps and protects the engine in first 10K. (this is what I have been told by few ppl when I ask same question should I change my oil on 5K)

After you change your oil on 10K you can change it every 5K which is good for your car.

To the best my knowledge the original fill of oil on a new engine is Honda Feo Mineral oil. Personally i change oil & filter @ 1,000km, & every 5000km thereafter. I will also add that i change auto fluid every 20,000km. All honda engines are run in at the factory so the worst thing u can do is treat your new car like a baby. Give it a good work out once the engine is completely up to operating temp (usually around 20km of driving).
My suggestion to people when they buy a new car is to get the first 1000km over as soon as possibly, preferably in 1 long trip. The reason I say this is 90% of engine wear occurs on a cold engine, therefore the less driving you do on a cold engine the better.
I had the perfect drive organized in Sydney when I lived there, but now in central QLD i have found another trip i recommend, just not as exciting.

tony1234
28-06-2009, 12:01 PM
To the best my knowledge the original fill of oil on a new engine is Honda Feo Mineral oil. Personally i change oil & filter @ 1,000km, & every 5000km thereafter. I will also add that i change auto fluid every 20,000km. All honda engines are run in at the factory so the worst thing u can do is treat your new car like a baby. Give it a good work out once the engine is completely up to operating temp (usually around 20km of driving).
My suggestion to people when they buy a new car is to get the first 1000km over as soon as possibly, preferably in 1 long trip. The reason I say this is 90% of engine wear occurs on a cold engine, therefore the less driving you do on a cold engine the better.
I had the perfect drive organized in Sydney when I lived there, but now in central QLD i have found another trip i recommend, just not as exciting.
With the new euros don't they use some "run in oil"with molybdenum in it so for run in purposes Honda recommend you leave it in for 10K?What you say above applies to "earlier "Hondas like mine(06)where in the service books the 1st.service is 1K but in the later ones like yours buddah the 1st.service is 10K.:confused::confused:

buddah51au
28-06-2009, 12:43 PM
With the new euros don't they use some "run in oil"with molybdenum in it so for run in purposes Honda recommend you leave it in for 10K?What you say above applies to "earlier "Hondas like mine(06)where in the service books the 1st.service is 1K but in the later ones like yours buddah the 1st.service is 10K.:confused::confused:

Regardless of what additives they use, it is still a mineral based oil & there is no way i would personally go 10,000km between oil changes. Always remember most engine wear occurs on a cold start, and this is magnified on a new engine with tight internals. There is always the possibility of microscopic metal particles floating around in the oil that are not picked up in the filter. Is that risk worth the few dollars for an oil change, not in my opinion. Any time we re-build an engine we specify the first oil change is mandatory at 1,000km or warranty is void, we also take this opportunity to check head studs and valve gear.

Maybe I am from the old school and like to keep my oil and engine internals clean, it is cheap insurance especially when there is no labour charge involved (in my case). For me it has always been first oil change @ 1,000km, 2nd @ 5,000km & every 5000km thereafter. Also there is no way I would change oil without a filter.

Like everything I know technology has changed, mostly for the better, but old habits die hard and I will stick with what my training taught me. There is an old saying.....it is impossible to over service a car. If you look after your car, it will look after you. I also admit that I don't drive my car as hard as many on this forum do, but it does see the high side of 7,000rpm on occasions, under those conditions we are asking a lot from our lubrication.

unity
28-06-2009, 06:58 PM
Buddah51au are you also from the old school when it comes to warming up your car first thing in the morning? How long do you warm up your car?

buddah51au
28-06-2009, 08:45 PM
Buddah51au are you also from the old school when it comes to warming up your car first thing in the morning? How long do you warm up your car?

LOL...less than 30 seconds, followed by about 1 minute at idle speed to the driveway entrance. I will add that I never drive a car hard within 10km of a cold start.

ok2
30-06-2009, 03:14 PM
I 100% agree with buddah51au on oil changes - cheapest form of insurance you will ever get.

Also with these extended service intervals (10k or even 15k :eek:) that are now commonly recommended the build up of "gunk" (is oil sludge the technical term for it ?) inside the engine can be horrendous especially if most use is city driving. The inside of my Civic at 170k+ was like brand new because of regular changes at every 5k.

Personally I think extended service intervals are a marketing gimmick to make the perceived cost of ownership appear cheaper but to make the engine wear out more quickly and perform poorly earlier and thus encourage the change over to a new vehicle sooner.

buddah51au
30-06-2009, 05:15 PM
I 100% agree with buddah51au on oil changes - cheapest form of insurance you will ever get.

Also with these extended changes (10k or even 15k :eek:) that are now commonly recommended the build up of "gunk" (is oil sludge the technical term for it ?) inside the engine can be horrendous especially if most use is city driving. The inside of my Civic at 170k+ was like brand new because of regular changes at every 5k.

Personally I think extended service it is a marketing gimmick to make the perceived cost of ownership appear cheaper but to make the engine wear out more quickly and perform poorly earlier and thus encourage the change over to a new vehicle sooner.

You are 100% right that sludge build up in engines ( some with as little as 100km on them) is horrendous. A lot of this comes down to the conditions under which the vehicle is driven. Continual stop start city driving is a killer as the engine rarely gets up to operating temp. (by this i don't just mean coolant temp). A lot of people don't realise it takes approximately 20 km to get an engine and g/box up to full operating temp - think oil temp as well as coolant temp. It is those driving conditions that kill an engine before it's time in combination with extended oil change intervals. (the opposite is the reason taxi's tend to commonly get well in excess of 500,000km from there engines even though they may only change oils every 20k)

As for extended servicing being a marketing gimmick, the sooner people realise this fact the better. Dealers make less money from there customers initially, But after the first few years when the vehicle is out of warranty they more than make up for there initial losses with major repairs.

As I live in a rural area, i tend to put a lot more km on my car yearly as it is common to have to travel a lot further to do the things city folks do around the corner. People often say to me that my car will loose value much faster than a low km city car. While this is a true statement, it is only because people are ill informed & tend to stay away from late model cars with high kms. I try to explain to people that generally speaking a country car V a city car should be in similar mechanical condition....lets say for example after 2 years - 100,000 on a country car v 25,000 on the city car.

So I will let you guys ponder this statement and try to think of my reason for making such a bold statement. Maybe i can educate a few people on this.....lol

ok2
30-06-2009, 06:06 PM
@buddah51au
Yes, short cycle city driving is really bad for cars all round. This is where (theoretically speaking) an electric car wins. That is until it's a hot day and you want to run the air conditioning while stuck in stop-start traffic; now how far can you get on your battery current charge ?

Buying a second hand car always requires, IMHO, careful research on how its previous owner used it just as your example shows all is not what it seems.

unity
30-06-2009, 06:26 PM
What do the dealers charge just for an oil and filter change?

buddah51au
30-06-2009, 07:22 PM
What do the dealers charge just for an oil and filter change?

Much more than is justified by any standard. Apparently most people pay from $180 to $220 for a basic service, which is an oil change and check fluid levels. I buy genuine oil & filter over the counter for $58. Considering it takes no more than 30 minutes for an oil change & filter, that equates to a staggering labour rate of over $200 per hour. Totally unjustifiable in my opinion.

Time for people to buy a pair of car ramps, a 17mm ring spanner, an oil filter removing tool & in the case of the CU2, a 3/8 drive ratchet, short extension bar & a 10mm socket. Financially they are in front after 1 oil change.

If you go this way use genuine parts only, keep your receipts & note on the receipt the date and km oil change was done. That is the process I have always followed.

unity
30-06-2009, 07:56 PM
After reading this I'm seriously thinking of getting oil changes every 3 months or 5,000kms. I am not confident to do it myself so I'll just have to pay. I have free oil coupons with one dealer but this dealer uses Castrol Magnatec. This will get me a fairly cheap oil change but I don't know if it's the best oil to use in my car. Any problems with magnatec if its going to be changed every 3 months/ 5,000kms?

buddah51au
30-06-2009, 08:09 PM
After reading this I'm seriously thinking of getting oil changes every 3 months or 5,000kms. I am not confident to do it myself so I'll just have to pay. I have free oil coupons with one dealer but this dealer uses Castrol Magnatec. This will get me a fairly cheap oil change but I don't know if it's the best oil to use in my car. Any problems with magnatec if its going to be changed every 3 months/ 5,000kms?

Honestly mate, it is childs play, Euro is easier than Civic in that filter is easier to remove & replace. Honestly i wouldn't use castrol magnatec, but that is personal opinion only. if using a mineral oil i would stick with Genuine - after all it is good enough for 8000rpm type r, or if u wish to pay more go to mobil 1, with synthetic you could increase to 10,000k intervals (so they say). But we drive street cars, not race cars, so stick with a good mineral oil every 5000

tony1234
30-06-2009, 08:19 PM
After reading this I'm seriously thinking of getting oil changes every 3 months or 5,000kms. I am not confident to do it myself so I'll just have to pay. I have free oil coupons with one dealer but this dealer uses Castrol Magnatec. This will get me a fairly cheap oil change but I don't know if it's the best oil to use in my car. Any problems with magnatec if its going to be changed every 3 months/ 5,000kms?
Magnatec is fine if you change it every 3 mths./5K.It's only when it gets past 7-8K it tends to break down if the car is driven a bit hard.

unity
30-06-2009, 10:47 PM
Magnatec is fine if you change it every 3 mths./5K.It's only when it gets past 7-8K it tends to break down if the car is driven a bit hard.

Car is driven around suburban Melbourne so it never gets pushed too hard. I'll check with my dealer whether they have Honda FEO. Surely they must. If I can get that for free that will be pretty good.

unity
01-07-2009, 08:42 AM
Oil and filter change at Ringwood Honda is $120. They even let you bring your own oil.

denot
01-07-2009, 10:19 AM
Oil and filter change at Ringwood Honda is $120. They even let you bring your own oil.

thats only the labour price? Do we need to buy the oil again on the top of $120?

unity
01-07-2009, 12:00 PM
thats only the labour price? Do we need to buy the oil again on the top of $120?

No that's the total cost. They use FEO. I didn't ask whether it becomes cheaper if I bring my own oil. I will go with a full synthetic at my next major service.

buddah51au
01-07-2009, 03:53 PM
Oil and filter change at Ringwood Honda is $120. They even let you bring your own oil.

If that is the total cost including Oil & Filter it is a lot more realistic. But it is still $60 labour for 30 minutes work.

unity
02-07-2009, 10:24 AM
If that is the total cost including Oil & Filter it is a lot more realistic. But it is still $60 labour for 30 minutes work.

True but atleast I know it will get done properly. Some people are just not made for DIY and I am one of them.

Tarsnakes
19-07-2009, 01:00 PM
I had the 10K service done on my CU2 @Courtney & Patterson in Melbourne yesterday (Saturday).

I had the oil (10-30 Honda mineral oil) changed & oil filter changed (not required in handbook), new wiper blade inserts, front wheels swapped to rear and all the "visually inspected" items done. The total bill was $257 of which $139.30 was labour.

I asked about a fix for the pinging, and was told "they're working on it in Japan still" - no date for a fix offered.

Would I void my warranty if I did my own oil & filter every 5K? I'm not a mechanic like buddah51au, but am competent enough to do it!

buddah51au
19-07-2009, 07:58 PM
I had the 10K service done on my CU2 @Courtney & Patterson in Melbourne yesterday (Saturday).

I had the oil (10-30 Honda mineral oil) changed & oil filter changed (not required in handbook), new wiper blade inserts, front wheels swapped to rear and all the "visually inspected" items done. The total bill was $257 of which $139.30 was labour.

I asked about a fix for the pinging, and was told "they're working on it in Japan still" - no date for a fix offered.

Would I void my warranty if I did my own oil & filter every 5K? I'm not a mechanic like buddah51au, but am competent enough to do it!

$139.30 labour for less than 1 hours work......how can that be justified? Oil & Filter cost me $58.30 over the counter, so $59.40 for wiper rubbers......hmmmmmmmmm. me think they seen you coming.

If you feel competent enough to do your own oil changes I would do it, but I suggest you use genuine parts only, keep receipts & log the kms on receipt as to when you did the service. But i suggest you also need to have confidence in the Honda product - eg - how often would you see an engine failure of some description inside the 80,000km warranty period? Personally i have never seen 1. just take it back to Honda for 40K service when tappets need to be adjusted.

VIDSEURO
22-07-2009, 04:10 PM
Hey Buddah

How hard is it to remove the oil filer in the CU2.
I have looked in the engine bay and could not locate it.
Does the car need to be on ramps, as my lux is low and hard to get to the sump plug...
After my 10,000km's service at Honda i would maybe like to do my own oil and filter. Probably using Mobil 1...

buddah51au
22-07-2009, 05:18 PM
Hey Buddah

How hard is it to remove the oil filer in the CU2.
I have looked in the engine bay and could not locate it.
Does the car need to be on ramps, as my lux is low and hard to get to the sump plug...
After my 10,000km's service at Honda i would maybe like to do my own oil and filter. Probably using Mobil 1...

couldn't be any easier - bottom right rear corner of engine, I always remove the crappy steel undertray to make it easier. Ramps or floor jack required.

MR_LATE
03-01-2010, 11:33 PM
wow i went from page one and read through to hear. so far what i got is
1.Northside honda sucks @ss (this is where i bought my euro, service is so crappy never ever going there again but ill do one thing for them and that is free marketing "DONT GO TO NORTHSIDE HONDA BECAUSE THEY HAVE BAD SERVICE AND RIP U OFF!!"
2. gotta post some pics
3. learn to change the oil and filter by myself and buy genuine parts. service it at every 5k. (my bro always said they will always build a car so that it breaks down after the warranty)

u know, i always get the feeling that 10k is too long for a service.. so buddah u said to keep teh receipts when buying genuine parts? then what.

buddah51au
04-01-2010, 05:55 PM
wow i went from page one and read through to hear. so far what i got is
1.Northside honda sucks @ss (this is where i bought my euro, service is so crappy never ever going there again but ill do one thing for them and that is free marketing "DONT GO TO NORTHSIDE HONDA BECAUSE THEY HAVE BAD SERVICE AND RIP U OFF!!"
2. gotta post some pics
3. learn to change the oil and filter by myself and buy genuine parts. service it at every 5k. (my bro always said they will always build a car so that it breaks down after the warranty)

u know, i always get the feeling that 10k is too long for a service.. so buddah u said to keep teh receipts when buying genuine parts? then what.

I keep the receipts, write the date & kms on it and put them in a folder. If there is ever an issue with warranty & being a licensed mechanic I should be able to win any argument if Honda refuse to honor the warranty. lets face it, my car is over serviced compared to the recommended schedule & the receipts would match up with the spreadsheet I keep as well as with Bank statements.

I will add that I have never had a warranty claim on any of my Honda's, apart from the occasional recall or TSB updates. I also have my dealer onside to stamp my book.

DIY oil & filter change is childs play. You will need a pair of ramps, a ratchet with 10mm socket to remove the undertray, a 17mm ring spanner for the sump plug & an oil filter tool. Oh, & about 30 minutes of your time. 4.6 liters of oil with filter replacement.

tqt
04-01-2010, 08:29 PM
Hi all, how much the cost of servicing 20K/12 months for CU2 in melbourne?

Thanks

MR_LATE
04-01-2010, 09:20 PM
thanks buddah!!

buddah51au
04-01-2010, 09:27 PM
Hi all, how much the cost of servicing 20K/12 months for CU2 in melbourne?

Thanks

Too much, oil change & filter plus tyre rotation. DIY $58.30

albii
04-01-2010, 09:58 PM
wow i went from page one and read through to hear. so far what i got is
1.Northside honda sucks @ss (this is where i bought my euro, service is so crappy never ever going there again but ill do one thing for them and that is free marketing "DONT GO TO NORTHSIDE HONDA BECAUSE THEY HAVE BAD SERVICE AND RIP U OFF!!"
2. gotta post some pics
3. learn to change the oil and filter by myself and buy genuine parts. service it at every 5k. (my bro always said they will always build a car so that it breaks down after the warranty)

u know, i always get the feeling that 10k is too long for a service.. so buddah u said to keep teh receipts when buying genuine parts? then what.

I bought my last euro cl9 from them, and they serviced it ,and i was very happy.