[CL7] Honda Accord Euro - Performance Upgrades

[Stelz87]

Hey all,

Recently purchased a 2005 Honda Accord Euro {Manual} & was hoping you friendly members could give me an insight on what the best bang-for-buck performance part upgrades are for these?

I'm not looking to go too extreme on it as it will be a daily driver. Thanks all in advance!

[Fredoops]

Hello.

It's a CL9 not CL7 if your car is Australian delivered.

As to bang for buck performance upgrades:

1. cold air intake (more for noise)
2. Exhaust manifold
3. High flow cat

Then some sort of ECU adjustment/tune (to wake the car up) there are a few options ranging from few hundred to a few thousand.

[Stelz87]

Sorry about that. Must have gotten mixed up with the two.

Which CAI, Exhaust Manifold & Cat are best suited as I'm sure there is different variations?..

Also, who in Sydney is a recommended Honda re-tuner? Cheers

[Fredoops]

For CAI give this a read:
http://www.tsxclub.com/forums/heeltoe-automotive/49578-heeltoes-mega-super-intake-shootout-results.html

Exhaust manifold/headers, there are race style headers like PLM (which is a Hytech replica), weapon r (J's racing replica), and street headers like comptech and DC sports and some eBay headers that look like DC sports.

As to cat, just get a high flow metal cat and get an exhaust place to weld it to a pipe for you.


As to ECU, nobody in Sydney does "retune/reflashes" of the ecu that comes with your own car, two mobs in Australia can reflash your own Ecu's: myself or Jtune, both in melb.

Other places do sell ecu solutions tho (usuall means you buy a new/different ecu, few places sell flashpro ($1500 + tune) or this new Ktuner thingy ($600 odd plus tune).

[Stelz87]

I've skimmed through it & it looks like the link for the shootout on the CAI's doesn't work anymore but it seems to be that the Comptech Icebox is the best bang for buck system available..

I'm interested in the DC Sports headers due to the performance to dollar ratio that it gives also. Would you recommend any of the catalytic converters that Heeltoe sells or do you think better to go to an exhaust shop & get one welded up?

How would I go about getting you guys to tune it? Can the ECU be sent or is it a custom Dyno tune?

BTW what are the best websites to purchase these items anyway? List others that you think may be helpful.

[Fredoops]

I've skimmed through it & it looks like the link for the shootout on the CAI's doesn't work anymore but it seems to be that the Comptech Icebox is the best bang for buck system available.

as far as power goes

K&N Typhoon > Icebox > Injen



I'm interested in the DC Sports headers due to the performance to dollar ratio that it gives also. Would you recommend any of the catalytic converters that Heeltoe sells or do you think better to go to an exhaust shop & get one welded up?

All I can say is.... Shipping can be expansive and blow the value proposition completely out of the water.
Maybe a cheaper Stainless steel version of the DC sports header on eBay if you are budget conscious and dont want a race type header.

As to cat, same story, shipping could make a dent on the cost.


How would I go about getting you guys to tune it? Can the ECU be sent or is it a custom Dyno tune?

Reflash is not a custom dyno tune, if you need/want custom dyno tune, Hondata FlashPro or Ktuner is the go (otherwise you're looking at haltech/AEM systems)


BTW what are the best websites to purchase these items anyway? List others that you think may be helpful.

Amazon surprisingly has a lot of stuff for our Euros (Acura TSX in the US), then theres HeeltoeAuto and a few vendor's on this site.

[Stelz87]

I had a chat with a workshop just then in regards to achieving 145+FWKW from my Euro & this is what was recommended..

* RBC Manifold + J35 Throttle Body
* Injen Cold Air Intake
* PLM Headers + Cat, Resonator & B Pipe
* Honda Adjustable Cam Gear
* K-Tune + Custom Dyno Tune
* Necessary Gaskets

As a package deal for $5,000 fitted & tuned. Does that sound right to you or can I achieve the power I'm after cheaper?

I'm mechanically minded & can do most of this work myself. Here is what I came up with as an alternative..

* RBC Manifold + J35 Throttle Body
* Comptech Ice Box Intake
* DC Sports Headers + Random Tech Cat
* Honda Adjustable Cam Gear
* K-Tune + Custom Dyno Tune
* Necessary Gaskets

All these items are from HeelToe Automotive (besides the tune ofcourse) & will set me back $3061.84 landed, fitted & tuned.

What are your thoughts on this? Cheers

[Fredoops]

As a package deal for $5,000 fitted & tuned. Does that sound right to you or can I achieve the power I'm after cheaper?

that shop used to be a trader here, but they were removed.

you can source a lot of the parts from "AutoFair Honda" in the states (plus shipping of course), they are a trader on the premier forum for all things K-series engine related:
http://www.k20a.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=153&order=desc


* RBC Manifold + J35 Throttle Body
RBC is more geared towards high rpm breathing rather than low-mid range torque

if you do get RBC intake manifold, consider getting it ported and polished (inside), ie; gutted.


* Comptech Ice Box Intake
You'll need a Samco (or samco style) silicon intake arm to match the intake to the intake manifold (because the RBC intake manifold is much shorter than the RBB intake manifold that comes with the car, positioning of the throttlebody is different), people pick injen because it's easier to match the intake tube with the manifold/throttle body


* DC Sports Headers + Random Tech Cat
Not a race header so it'll be limited on power gains sadly, you need some sort of race header, cheaper race headers dont usually come with any flexpipes, so consider adding one (or a few) for sake of reducing metal fatigue.


* Honda Adjustable Cam Gear
"Adjustable" - it's a VTC gear, they use one from the 2 litre Kseries engine, allows up to 50 degree of cam movement instead of 25.

...if you are opening the engine you may want to considering doing some maintenance on the timing chain and tensioner and guide, just in case the previous owner neglected the car.

..and if you are opening the engine... consider putting in a Camshaft from an Acura Tsx (2007 onwards), it's got a more aggressive profile.


* K-Tune + Custom Dyno Tune
MUCH cheaper than FlashPro, but you'll need to go to honda dealer (or somewhere with the tools) to recode your keys (another $100 or so @ Honda), and Ktuner don't have cruise control at present.
info here: http://ktuner.com/0406tsx/


* Necessary Gaskets
a hundred dollar worth of gaskets, usually the thermal resistant type




I'm mechanically minded & can do most of this work myself. Here is what I came up with as an alternative..

Since you are mechanically minded, give this a read for starters :-)
http://www.hondata.com/tuning_k24a2_tsx_engine.html

The K-series are like the LS, fascinating stuff! K20a.org is a very good source to learn about the Honda K-series engine!

[Stelz87]

Any reason BYP Racing was removed? I really appreciate your help there mate. Looks like I will be sticking to the basics for now like what you mentioned earlier (CAI, Headers & Cat) until I've got a bit more coin to play with for the other stuff.

What do you think she'll produce at the wheels giving the parts mentioned with & without a tune? I know they produce about 110FWKW standard as is.

[noobies]

Intake, headers and cat are a great start. :)

Performance isn't just in the engine.
Have you considered brakes and handling upgrades?
Rear sway, struts and braces are also good bang for buck.
Some coilovers or springs/shocks combo to follow suit?

[Fredoops]

Looks like I will be sticking to the basics for now like what you mentioned earlier (CAI, Headers & Cat) until I've got a bit more coin to play with for the other stuff.

What do you think she'll produce at the wheels giving the parts mentioned with & without a tune? I know they produce about 110FWKW standard as is.

110kw atw new, you'll lose a but over the years.

as per noobies, you'll also have to look at suspension and braking mods. thats more $$$$

[Sean628]

wonder how much is a supercharger + install and tune, around 5k I guess?

[Stelz87]

So what do you think she'll be making after the modifications we spoke about earlier as a starters with & without the tune?

Suspension & braking mods are a given & will be sorted last.

Who sells PLM headers? I found JDM Yard carries them for $595.00

[Fredoops]

So what do you think she'll be making after the modifications we spoke about earlier as a starters with & without the tune?

vary largely on the dyno
Im thinking mid 120 ish kw.

To give you a guide, on a recent dyno day, a post facelift euro with CAI, RRC intake manifold (and bigger throttlebody), race header, high flow cat, and catback exhaust made 130kw atw

contact Sleeping performance here as a vendor, he might still have some left.

[Stelz87]

I've sent sleeping performance a post on his advert for the headers & I have also sent a message to the Honda OEM parts supplier in the states that you mentioned earlier.

Hopefully I get back some good news. I looked into the '07 TSX camshaft, couldn't find anything on eBay but I'm curious to know if it's a direct drop in or am I going to need valve springs etc..

[Jasemas]

Let's just say BYP
Is not licensed to 'repair/modify vehicles' legally...
Nice going with discussion

[Rudy]

'Back Yard Performance' - says it all

[Stelz87]

Thanks for the advice. I know to stay clear of them now. Cheers

[Stelz87]

Say I did go down the path of replacing the intake manifold with the RBC, will the K&N Typhoon CAI & the Injen CAI fit without any issues or will I require to extend them due to the size of the manifold being slightly smaller?

[Fredoops]

Say I did go down the path of replacing the intake manifold with the RBC, will the K&N Typhoon CAI & the Injen CAI fit without any issues or will I require to extend them due to the size of the manifold being slightly smaller?

Easier with injen apparently, you need a different silicon coupler to connect the TB to the metal Intake tube

[Stelz87]

Can anyone recommend good reliable workshops around Sydney who do work on the CL9's?

[sodaz]

Can anyone recommend good reliable workshops around Sydney who do work on the CL9's?

Top One and IS Motor Racing are both pretty good from my experience. IS can dyno tune too.

[Fredoops]

Add to that extremeproject at blacktown

[Stelz87]

Cheers boys. Will contact them shortly.

[ChaosMaster]

Not sure if you've ordered already, but here's some general information on top as well. CAI like Injen/K&N (basically open pod) will give you more high end power, where as the closed design like the IceBox will give you more mid range torque. The Icebox is also quieter, if you're not looking for loud noise. The RBB manifold that comes with the car is also designed for torque (the K24 is the torquiest 4 of all Honda I4 engines by design), going RBC will increase your top end KW, but again, you'll lose some mid range torque. As for exhaust, in general, 4-2-1 designs are better for street as they give more torque where as 4-1 designs give more high end power. The CL9's stock exhaust isn't very restrictive either, so if you're just chasing power, consider changing the CAT, 03-05 had 900 cells where as 06-08 had 400 cells. Being 05 for your car, the CAT is what's really limiting your performance, give it a 150 cell and it'll love you for it. Either way, it depends on how you intend to drive the car, as torque is more useful on the road, especially when overtaking, where as trackwork would prioritize power.

All CL9's run drive by wire throttles, which has a lag to it. A reflash will correct this (saving up for Freddy's flash myself, although it may take a while) and is def worth while. Also consider some fresh gearbox oil. Mine had done 60000km and was feeling knotchy. Fresh oil made a huge difference, made it feel like my syncros weren't working prior to the flush.

In terms brakes, the OEM ones are alright, you might want fresh brake fluid and more agressive pads. QFM HPX are good, here's a thread on brakes specifically, it makes for a good read:
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthread.php?127297-Brake-replacement&highlight=brake

In terms of handling upgrades, outside of the obvious wheels and springs/coilover upgrades, the one that will make the most difference to your cars handling is the Rear Sway Bar. Grab a thicker one, 18mm is what I think is ideal. Some people have broken their mounts with thicker bars (22mm I think) because they were too stiff.

[Stelz87]

Thanks mate. Your mini write up has been the best info yet. Below is a list of mods I have decided on already..

- Power
* RBC Intake Manifold
* RBC VTC
* J35 Throttle Body
* PLM Headers (HeelToe have spoken of fitment issues?)
* Comptech IceBox
* High Flow Cat
* Catback Exhaust
* Stage 1 Camshafts + Valve Springs / Retainers (BIG maybe!)

- Supporting Mods
* Hasport Intake Adapter
* Intake Arm / Tube Extender
* Headers Gasket
* Thermo Intake Gasket (Do I need 2x intake gaskets?)

- Handling
* H&R Coilovers
* 22MM Swaybar Rear (Thought it was 19MM factory?)
* F+R Strutbrace (Not sure it needs it?)
* Michelin Pilot Sport 3 Tires

- Brakes (I have had this setup before. Excellent!)
* DBA 4000
* QFM HPX
* HighTemp Brake Fluid (Undecided)
* Braided Lines (Undecided)

I'm very anal about servicing so all oils will be replaced shortly. As far as tuning goes, I was either going to chase down an Auto / Manual ECU from a 07-08 TSX & use Flashpro otherwise K-Tuner? What is this other tune you speak of?

[Fredoops]

Factory sway bar is 12 or 13 mm.

If you are spending the thousand dollar plus on cams and another 3-400 on valve train, skip stage 1 and go straight for stage 2 (otherwise stick to TSX intake cam)

Add new timmin chain and tensioner to your list.

Also k20 oil pump,

Change H&R coil with Teins (get it locally from Fulcrum).

[Stelz87]

Well unless I can chase down a late model TSX intake cam then that would make life easier for that extra bit of power instead of changing oil pump, timing chain, tensioner etc..

How many millimeter is the Civic SI rear swaybar? I heard they are interchangeable..

[Fredoops]

Well unless I can chase down a late model TSX intake cam then that would make life easier for that extra bit of power instead of changing oil pump, timing chain, tensioner etc..

Sometimes one (TSX intake cam) pop up on k20a.org, else you can get a new one fr $500 (less than 1/2 price of a stage 1 or 2 cam)

You still want to replace the timming chain and tensioner (at least with oem parts), when you are changing cams and vtc, just for the sake of sanity (insurance/maintance).

K20a oil pump itself can gain you up to 10 hp, just saying (due on less parasitic loss), and if you are getting a RBC manifold I highly recommend you get a dremel and port/polish the inside.

Btw you are looking at some serious investment there, that's 4 grand on engine parts alone.

You probably want to look at k tuner in this case cause that saves you over $1000 over flashpro, and you also might be nudging the limits of the stock injector too

[Stelz87]

HeelToe sell the TSX intake camshaft for $400USD so I'll think about investing in one if it's a noticeable difference. From some of the workshops I've spoken to (SAS), they say it's not a worthwhile upgrade?

Replacing timing chain, tensioner, oil pump & port/polishing the intake manifold seem like something I'm probably not going to be bothered for until it is absolutely required.

I really wanted to keep cruise control happening but not for $1000+ more.. Which workshops around Sydney offer K-Tuner & are known for good tunes besides BYP?

[Fredoops]

HeelToe sell the TSX intake camshaft for $400USD so I'll think about investing in one if it's a noticeable difference. From some of the workshops I've spoken to (SAS), they say it's not a worthwhile upgrade?

Like anything else it's an incremetal upgrade. But value for money is probably better than having stg 1 cams + valve spring


Replacing timing chain, tensioner, oil pump & port/polishing the intake manifold seem like something I'm probably not going to be bothered for until it is absolutely required.


Timing chain and tensioner are reliability upgrades, cause when that fails chances are your piston is goin thru the cylinder head

You kinda need th k20 oil pump if you plan to rev past 8000 rpm.

[ChaosMaster]

I agree with Fred, forgot about it myself, but the timing chains on the K24 are known to stretch, a bit more than the stock tensioners are designed to handle. You don't have to change the chain, as there is a limit to how much it will stretch, but I would recommend at least upgrading the tensioner. Especially with more agressive cams, the clearances will be smaller, so you really don't want to risk the timings being off by even the slightest. Especially after you've spend so much on the engine.

Another thing I was wondering was why you haven't considered S/C. Considering the amount you're looking at spending, an S/C kit (~5k mark for most) would give you much more oomph than what you've listed now, and for much less headache. Having said that, a lot of this stuff would carry over if you did decided to go S/C in the future.

[Stelz87]

The cost to run a supercharger is the around the amount of how much I will be spending in total on everything inc brakes, engine mods, handling etc so not really a worth while upgrade.

As for the PLM Headers. HeelToe have spoken of fitment issues.. Have you guys heard anything? I have heard nothing but the best about them..

I'm also stuck on gaskets for the intake manifold. Don't know if I require two or one as I'll be using the adapter to sit in between as well. Any ideas?

Would I have to import a rear sway bar or does whiteline or someone in australia sell them? And strut braces.. Do the Euro/TSX require them or are they pretty good from factory?

[Fredoops]

The cost to run a supercharger is the around the amount of how much I will be spending in total on everything inc brakes, engine mods, handling etc so not really a worth while upgrade.
Not necessarily, once you open the engine, your cost shots up, you don't have to open the engine for a supercharger, it replaces your intake manifold.

Some one here got a supercharger kit for 5 grand last year, including kpro engine management, which wasnt a bad deal.

and you can probably get a new kit for 5 grand or so
http://www.ebay.com/itm/2004-06-ACURA-TSX-COMPTECH-SUPERCHARGER-KIT-NEW-IN-BOX-/261020685470?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3cc60b949e

You know as they say... NA power is expansive... it really is once you go beyond bolt-ons.

Im only staying N/A because of insurance considerations, otherwise S/C is probably the more "future proof" option.



As for the PLM Headers. HeelToe have spoken of fitment issues.. Have you guys heard anything? I have heard nothing but the best about them..

you cant use it with stock catback (and indeed most off the shelf aftermarket catbacks) if you want a cat converter. (the header is too long, so you have to cut into the oem catback)

and there is no flexpipe to counter the vibration (ie: prevent metal fatigue)


I'm also stuck on gaskets for the intake manifold. Don't know if I require two or one as I'll be using the adapter to sit in between as well. Any ideas?

One

You can use 2 for RBB manifolds because it's 2 piece, RBC is one piece so one.

[Stelz87]

I'll be getting a cat back exhaust after I install the headers. Have been quoted $600+ for a stainless mandrel bent system by the place you recommended (Extreme Project World). I'll purchase a cat separately.

In regards to the intake gasket. I'm asking if I require two as I will be running the Hasport Intake Adapter in between to run the RBC manifold on my engine? Check out the link..

http://hasport.com/store/index.php/kinad.html

[Fredoops]

In regards to the intake gasket. I'm asking if I require two as I will be running the Hasport Intake Adapter in between to run the RBC manifold on my engine? Check out the link..


One still.

But why do you need an intake adaptor?

[Stelz87]

I've been told to re-route a coolant pipe? No idea really numerous people have said so as well that you need it when installing a RBC manifold.

[Fredoops]

I've been told to re-route a coolant pipe? No idea really numerous people have said so as well that you need it when installing a RBC manifold.

Thtas a K24A2, we're K24A3, ours are a direct bolt on as far as i can see, i dont remember anyone here in Oz who's got that adaptor on their RBC manifold.

[ChaosMaster]

I haven't heard of anyone doing a coolant re-route on the CL9 either. Not for RBC anyways. Not to sure about extractors though, there was a good convo a bit back, but I can't seem to find it. In general, I think wpn R and PLM were the 2 that were recommended for those on a budget. Toda if your rich.

As for the S/C though, it will make more power than N/A for the same amount of money spent, which is why I was suggesting it. As much as I love NA, it would cost twice as much to achieve the same amount of power. I think your setup will give you around ~140kwatw where as the S/C kit would easily bring it over 150kwatw, more with your basic IHE upgrades.

[Stelz87]

This is where I read about the adapter as well http://www.hondata.com/tuning_k24a2_tsx_engine.html

In regards to the rear swaybar, where do they sell them in Australia & are strut braces let alone H braces recommended?

[Fredoops]

This is where I read about the adapter as well http://www.hondata.com/tuning_k24a2_tsx_engine.html

In regards to the rear swaybar, where do they sell them in Australia & are strut braces let alone H braces recommended?

pretty sure whiteline sells rear sway bar

Cusco makes strut bars (front), some of the vendor's here sell them.

[Stelz87]

You have a H brace on your Euro. Tell me your experience with it Fredoops. Have you done a rear sway bar yet?

[Fredoops]

You have a H brace on your Euro. Tell me your experience with it Fredoops. Have you done a rear sway bar yet?

i have comptech 22mm RSB (as in my sig)

theres less chassis flex as a result and you do feel more direct in your steering.

[Stelz87]

How much did you pick up the sway bar delivered & from where?

[Fredoops]

How much did you pick up the sway bar delivered & from where?

got it 2nd hand from a part out years ago.

[ChaosMaster]

Whiteline RSB is available around a fair few places. In general, thicker RSB on a FWD car will reduce understeer. I've also got a J's Racing strut/tower bar, and haven't really noticed any improvements. Having said that, on the facelifted models at least, there is a strut brace of sorts existing, although in a V shape, going from one strut to a centre point at the back of the engine bay to the other strut. Not sure if pre-facelift have that. Having said that, I haven't pushed it (i.e taken it to the track) since I've put it on so there maybe some benefit.

[Stelz87]

I looked on the Whiteline website. Nothing under accord euro. Selected accord instead & then showed a 20MM RSB but said Excluding Accord Euro..

[ChaosMaster]

They make them in batches, so it doesn't surprise me if they sold out. I recall they had a 18mm, then made a 20mm one, then went back to 18mm. Check the traders or even GSLRallySport if they have any left.

[Stelz87]

I wonder what the part number is..

[Stelz87]

Here is the final plan I have decided on for my CL9. No more edits :thumbsup:

- Power
* RBC Intake Manifold
* RBC VTC
* J35 Throttle Body
* PLM Headers
* Comptech IceBox
* High Flow Cat
* Catback Exhaust

- Supporting Mods
* Intake Arm / Tube Extender
* Headers Gasket
* Thermo Intake Gasket

- Handling
* Bilstein B12 Pro-Kit
* Ultra Racing 19MM RSB
* Michelin PS3 205/55/16 Tires

- Brakes
* DBA T2 Slotted Rotors
* QFM HPX Pads
* Genuine Honda Brake Fluid

To me this is what you call "tasteful modifications". It will have excellent all-round performance & still maintain it's factory look & practicality while flying under the radar.

[Fredoops]

- Power
* RBC Intake Manifold
* RBC VTC
* J35 Throttle Body
* PLM Headers
* Comptech IceBox
* High Flow Cat
* Catback Exhaust

make sure you add a flex pipe or 2 in the exhaust system to reduce metal fatigue

Plus either FlashPro or Ktuner programmable ECU setup + tune.


- Handling
* Bilstein B12 Pro-Kit
* Ultra Racing 19MM RSB
* Michelin PS3 205/55/16 Tires
dont think B12 comes in setup for CL9 or CL7 anymore, unless you want the european stock... which could cost a bomb (probably $1000 aud + shipping which you'll also be slugged GST)

http://www.bilsteinus.com/uploads/tx_templavoila/Bil_B12_flyer.pdf

It's a japanese car, most of us would go with Tein full coilover kit instead, but end of the day it is your car.

you will need wide rim and tyre setup, 16x6.5 wont do it.



- Brakes
* DBA T2 Slotted Rotors
* QFM HPX Pads
* Genuine Honda Brake Fluid

Try Penrite brake fluid, even their dot3 dot4 are very high temp (almost racing grade)


To me this is what you call "tasteful modifications". It will have excellent all-round performance & still maintain it's factory look & practicality while flying under the radar.
well considering the catback would be at least 2.5 inch piping in diameter (or you are wasting your time, Honda Kseries wants 2.5-3inch), it wont be quiet, at all, so i dunno about the flying under the radar bit.

[Stelz87]

Adding a tune is a given otherwise modifying it would be pointless.

I can have the B12 kit imported for just under $1000. As for tax.. Won't know until imported.

Most would go with Japanese suspension components but you can't get better than Bilstein/Eibach hands down. The Jap's don't copy the Euro's for nothing :-)

The wheel / tyre setup will be fine for my application seeming I'm getting the best rubber available on the market & I won't be tracking the vehicle. I could possibly upgrade to the standard 17" wheel but we'll see when the time comes.

I was questionable about the fluid but that may be the only thing I would change if anything.

The exhaust will be 2.5" & I will be keeping the standard mufflers so she'll be flying under the radar (until I plant it ofcourse) ;-)

[axispower]

I haven't heard of anyone doing a coolant re-route on the CL9 either. Not for RBC anyways. Not to sure about extractors though, there was a good convo a bit back, but I can't seem to find it. In general, I think wpn R and PLM were the 2 that were recommended for those on a budget. Toda if your rich.

As for the S/C though, it will make more power than N/A for the same amount of money spent, which is why I was suggesting it. As much as I love NA, it would cost twice as much to achieve the same amount of power. I think your setup will give you around ~140kwatw where as the S/C kit would easily bring it over 150kwatw, more with your basic IHE upgrades.

From what I've seen and heard most guys with s/c kit get over 170kw atw.

[axispower]

I looked on the Whiteline website. Nothing under accord euro. Selected accord instead & then showed a 20MM RSB but said Excluding Accord Euro..

Get a progress RSB from Heeltoeauto. I got my Tein street basis coils, RSB and Alutec FTB for about... 1.3k including postage?

Even though I know you're after much better coils than mine - look into the 22mm progress RSB. I'm lazy though and resort to heeltoeauto because they have most of the good stuff and is an easy transaction, rather than searching and searching for second hand parts. I'm impatient. Depends on how you are I guess. My 2c.

[Stelz87]

Well the plan is to stay within a 5 - 6k budget on everything that is being done as mentioned in the list above & surely the supercharger will set me back 5k+ alone in which I'm not willing to pay for minimal gains.

I say keep it N/A as Honda intended the Vtec motors to be & hang the fark on! ;)

Ordering coilovers from HeelToe will set me back an additional $400+ on postage. I would rather put that $400 towards a set of Bilstein's instead which is what I'm doing.

[axispower]

Well the plan is to stay within a 5 - 6k budget on everything that is being done as mentioned in the list above & surely the supercharger will set me back 5k+ alone in which I'm not willing to pay for minimal gains.

I say keep it N/A as Honda intended the Vtec motors to be & hang the fark on! ;)

Yeah no worries.

This guy had approx. 270kw atw apparently. You can find him on the Aus Euro fb page.

[Stelz87]

That power figure sounds nice but I bet the sound of that price tag doesn't seeming you would obviously need supporting modifications also..

[axispower]

Definitely. I think his price tag was approaching 20k.

EDIT: I meant to ad a video to that post.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fdnfPUBE7zg

[Stelz87]

Good lord.. loll