Tuning for boost

[Muzz]

Hey guys, these questions are rather noobish, but i figured this section would be the best place to get reliable answers.

Im researching and making plans to boost my d series, im at uni so am doing it cheaply using a second hand turbo to start with.

Once i get it tuned, i dont want to have to tune it again.

1. I was wondering, if my engine was tuned while boost was controlled purely by the wastegate spring, would i need to retune the car if i went with an electronic boost controller and turned up the boost 2-3 psi more??

2. Also, if i upgraded the turbo at a later date, running the same boost or not, would i need to retune?

Im guessing not for both questions, but just not 100% sure.
If i did need to/ is better to retune after either of these changes, id just save up for a better turbo and/or EBC before getting it tuned, which would delay my plans a good 2 months...

[DynoDave]

Dude save your money do the mods all at once and then tune it once only it will be cheaper in the long run for you.
Regards Dyno Dave

[Muzz]

Dude save your money do the mods all at once and then tune it once only it will be cheaper in the long run for you.
Regards Dyno Dave

Thanks, i take it then it would be advised to re tune after swapping turbos and running slightly higher boost with an EBC. Will take your advice, theres no way i can afford to tune twice!

[DLO01]

Yeh, just save up. Do it once, do it right 1st time. Less hassle, less $ in the long run. :thumbsup:

So many people go cheap, and end up paying more and more as the months and years go on.

[string]

1 Yes. Your ECU does not know what to do with the extra 2-3psi you need to tell it when you crank the boost up. You will only need to fill in the extra column[s] however, not a complete retune.
2 Yes. Your cylindes most likely do not contain the same ammount of air anymore, even at the same manifold pressures. ECU's aren't psychic, and unfortunately this one will require a full retune.

Can't afford to tune twice? Maybe look into tuning yourself. Or will a wideband blow the budget? I think I spent about 600 bucks on everything for my b-series but now I can tune every day if I wanted to :D

[Muzz]

1 Yes. Your ECU does not know what to do with the extra 2-3psi you need to tell it when you crank the boost up. You will only need to fill in the extra column[s] however, not a complete retune.
2 Yes. Your cylindes most likely do not contain the same ammount of air anymore, even at the same manifold pressures. ECU's aren't psychic, and unfortunately this one will require a full retune.

Can't afford to tune twice? Maybe look into tuning yourself. Or will a wideband blow the budget? I think I spent about 600 bucks on everything for my b-series but now I can tune every day if I wanted to :D

Thanks alot guys that helps alot, ill just save up and get all the shit i want to be running in the end, before i put it together and get it tuned.:wave:

[Muzz]

Ok another noobie Q (hey we all have to start somwhere;) ).

When boost is controled simply via the wastegate spring, i hear that it starts releasing exhaust gasses before it gets to full boost, because the valve partially opens as the pressure rises.

I believe an electronic boost controller stops this, because the air pressue going to the wastegate is not seen by the wastegate, until full boost is reached, and the boost controller opens up and allows the pressure through.

Does a manual boost controller work the same way, in that no pressure is seen by the wastegate spring to open it up, until your desired full boost is reached, suddenly sending pressure through the manual controler to open the wastegate?

Ive seen simple internal diagrams of how they work, and to me it seems they would, but once again, i dont dont know for sure, and am not willing to guess.

What are the disadvantages of a manual boost controler over an electronic boost controler, other than the ease of adjustments?

Ive had a good search, but cant find the answers to my questions.:(
Mods feel free to move this to the noob section if you deem it necissary.:wave:

[defect]

probably sound like a noob reply but this is what I know about ebc, manual boost controller (not all) can boost spike, like overboost and can damage your motor without you knowing. ebc uses proper solinoids (sometimes twin solinoids) and hold boost alot better, helps prevent boost spikes. twin solinoid ebc holds boost same as single but incase it still spikes, thats what the other solinoid is there for, like back up if one choose to play up :D thats sort of what I know. in saying that, there is no harm in using a manual boost controller, just dont settle for a cheap 2nd one. im using a t piece for my boosted d series and havent really encountered any boost spike (that i know off :X)

on my previous ride, I have used a Blitz SBC id3 and tuned it, boost seems to pick up just a little earlier and held boost thru the rev range stronger, when I sold my car, I removed it and put a manual booster I brought from autobarn. I noticed a difference straight away, maybe it need a retune or boost wasnt set at the same level as the ebc. another advantage with the ebc is that theres a electronic display of how much boost your running rather than using a boost gauge which half the time isnt 100% right (can be off by a few psi etc).

personally, I wouldnt trust myself to do my own tuning full stop.

[micky_d01]

When boost is controled simply via the wastegate spring, i hear that it starts releasing exhaust gasses before it gets to full boost, because the valve partially opens as the pressure rises.

Then again, if the wastegate actuator is set to open at the PSI that you want to run, then there is no real harm in not using a controller at all if it doesnt fit into your budget. A good wastegate is well designed and will only leak a little as you closely approach your desired PSI. If you like, consider a boost controller as nothing more than a more precise wastegate with a variable PSI actuator.