Wanting people that have owned different brands or even ppl that have owned them in general to comment and compare.
Even sikaflex (spelling?) opinions please.
any problems that people have experienced etc.
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Wanting people that have owned different brands or even ppl that have owned them in general to comment and compare.
Even sikaflex (spelling?) opinions please.
any problems that people have experienced etc.
Any chassis?
I have a DC5 with Innovative 85a. They fit perfectly with no issues except one, there is no provision for the OEM earth strap on the drivers side mount. Car shakes a bit, my CD skips fairly constantly and I think my OEM stereo is about to die from the vibrations. I drive the car daily though and it doesn't bother me much.
i sikaflexed mine and its fine, tiny bit more vibrations but nothing to worry about at all. and most importanly, it totaly stopped my wheel hop issues.
Try it, get some spares from the wreckers and do them and throw em in, if you dont like it, put the stock ones back in.
If I ever have to pull my engine out again I will probably use all OEM mounts filled with sikaflex
Im using Innovative 60a in my EG, and have removed the oem torque mounts, so im just using the 3 main mounts. Noticable vibrations at idle, but nothing you cant deal with. Drives like stock on the move. Shifting feel is greatly improved.
Car is daily driven, with solid rear trailing arm bushes, energy suspension master kit, 10/6 springs, and the 60a mounts - no problems at all.
Only note is that during install, the oem stud coming out of the gearbox closest to the firewall is too short for the replacement mount due to the slightly different design to the oem mount. The stud needs to be removed, and a longer bolt needs to be used - which is included in the kit.
Get hasport mounts. They feel awesome. Plenty of vibration but your not changing your engine mounts for comfort.
Got some Innovative 60A engine mounts, and waiting for my Avid Racing Torque mounts to arrive, will get them installed and let you know how it goes :D
Been reading up on the Avid torque mounts and most people say they are not for the faint-hearted, Innovatives should be fine for daily use though.
I got hasport mounts in my EM1. feel great, a bit more vibration on start up and when idling but feel fine while driving. Do it!! :thumbsup:
should be Sikaflex® 252 afaik
i just got some energy suspension inserts for my dc2r..............
kit includes, both front torque mounts and rear engine mount.......
first impressions with torque mounts installed only...............love them, hardly any vibrations at all..............but alot smoother on power delivery................
cheap ass here.
Got sikaflex 252 installed on OEM used mounts (standard dc2 ITR mounts) for the last 2.5 years. All torque mounts (rear and lower front two) and they are held in strong.
Been thru probably a dozen drag nights , half a dozen race days and copious amounts of stupid driving.
Cons : vibrates the dash alittle too much , steering wheel too. Once the engine is anything above idle speed the vibration settles.
I advice IF you know how to properly apply (ie clean mounts make sure no major cracks etc) then go for it. Otherwise just buy HASPORT mounts or similar.
IMO, all aftermarket mounts do the same thing.
Hasport, innovative and AVID same shit just different pricing. If your smart, chose the one which is the cheapest.
People chose hasport because its branded .
I need something like this
I'm getting crazy bunny hoping at take-off :o
DC2R. I got Hasport 62A engine mounts. With them and no torque mounts it felt very stock for me. Only at idle did I notice a little more vibration.
Then I bought some Avid torque mounts and added them on with the Hasport mounts. Definate vibration at idle and you can feel it more when you crank it initially. Driving around, you would not notice anything differnt.
ditto:thumbsup::thumbsup:
sikaflex 255 are soooo hard. if the mounts were prepped properly they will never come off. for those who want less vibration use sikaflex 227. i was quoted them being equivalent to around ~60a
i've tried and even a knife wasn't much help. had to refill a set coz i filled the whole thing at once and the centre wouldn't cure... ended up drilling the sika instead and refilling the cylinder gaps once centre was dried:thumbsup:
BUT... the ultimate way to self fill mounts is to use FLEXANE. theres a primer that comes with it that grafts/melts into the oem rubber. once on you will NEVER get this off.
on hi power sr20det setups, we broke other shit before the mounts budged. when i wrote off my nx, the mount housing snapped open with the mount inside intact.
also they worked well in my rear trailing arms until they popped out like inserts... i couldn't clean the oem rubber properly before filling underneath the car... would've worked had i had them out.
ended up replacing them with a solid rubber (not poly) set for ~AU$30 the pair. if anyones interested lemme know.. it's a company in Melbourne
also the other trick was.. since the engine rocks towards the firewall on acceleration...
all lower parts of the mount can be filled with sika 221/227 and upper parts with sika 252/255 as a compromise on solidity and cabin vibration.
personally i've never tried the 227/255... their all i see now in bunnings, apparently they replaced the 221/252... shouldn't be much difference.
but i've driven a car with those avid solid metal ones... **** that shit... i can almost guarantee you'd break a gearbox with that.
***EDIT***
or the other way around since the whiplash towards firewall is on throttle back-off
I would, but mine look like this atm.
http://i111.photobucket.com/albums/n...z/Image019.jpg
Unsure if I'm going to use oem or go straight to avid. Looking at avid.
ill sikaflex the torque mounts... dont go avid
Thats we are using on our race car, filled in OEM mounts with innovative billet 85a mounts
Cheers for that, good to know :thumbsup:
We use sikaflex at work as a sealant for its fire ratings but never knew you use it on mounts... hmmmm
lol i used exhaust gasket glue on the hole in my sis's exhaust.
I wonder how well exhaust glue would work in mounts....
has anyone got spoon mounts?
very true... not solid at all, just a bit harder... which SEEMS pointless to me since it will have a higher chance of tearing from stiffness instead of flexing like oem mounts... if they were solid rubber then fair enough:
lol damn... i did freak out for 'endangering my gf to risk of fire' but at least it's confirmed with backing and not simply "you're a moron" lolQuote:
Originally Posted by http://www.modacar.com/products/Honda/Civic/ENMO/
cool thanks for the info ben and dsp26 :)
i've got some aftermarket ones atm and was thinking of getting a set that doesn't vibrate the interior. sounds like they might be ok for what i'm after!
So well the OEM with inserts hold fine with boost?
Would hasports be enouph in a eg with a ITR swap, or would you sikaflex the oem torque mounts to if your serious about street and strip?
Also does anyone know whats the best way to fill the oem mounts with the sikaflex if they are broken like "Alex's", mounts in the photo?
hasports are more than enough for a eg with a itr swap.
I personally have and many others have "sikaflexed" the oem mounts (not cracked) and with good results.
You cant really fix the mounts shown by alex They are rooted.
I strongly suggest you fine OEM DC2R front torque mounts - they are encapsulated by a metal casing (note alex's are not - just HALF a metal casing) and use them. DC2R ones are stronger and better for filling too
Note - to use DC2R FRONT torque mounts on a EG , you will have to drill or shave off the OEM mount plates , ,located on the underside of the chassis rail where the oem torque mounts sit
i got the hasport 62a... and the etra vibration i got was ridiculous... i know Dean DL001 has said that he didn't feel much vibration with these same things, to me it seems i was given the wrong ones going by what he has said...
My steering wheel and dash vibrated quite heavily, and have only settled slightly after 6-12 months and maybe 5000 kms of street driving...
The feel it adds to the "connectedness" of the car is fantastic, but i still think it was overkill for a street car...
im going to spend a day in the next months ripping everything out from the dash and using low grade loctite to get rid of most of the rattles
^^^bloody hell mate.. have fun!
you should DIY document the removal process and which bolts you tightened to successfully eliminate dash rattle.
ive lived with the car since new :-) im a bit attached!
i'll take photos and do a diy.... when i get around to it
Anyone got a photo of where the rear mount is located?
on the rear cross member lol
spoon mounts FTW
for daily use
hasport mounts are good the vibration feels awesome
Why oh why do people refer to Spoon and Mugen parts as the be and all of upgrades? They do not manufacture their parts, they're branded. You may as well simply use the part that they are using (rebranded) from their supplier and use it for less $$ ..
Its like the old Mazda 323 & Ford Laser. Same car, parts through Ford cost a fortune. Parts through Mazda on the other hand (as they on sold the parts to Ford) were a lot cheaper..
Do your research is all I'm saying, Spoon is just a brand.
^^^ i would agree with you if it was anything else but on the topic of engine mounts, although not solid and still retaining factory/oem shape... the compound used is slightly harder
I agree. Not everyone likes to turn their car into a rattly, race-oriented piece of junk. Particularly considering the ratio of modified Honda's that get hardparked compared to those that actually get driven. Don't need solid engine mounts for sitting in the carpark at KK.
A lot of Mugen and Spoon parts are great mild upgrades. Mugen parts generally fit like OEM too which is more than can be said for a lot of other aftermarket parts.
spoon have a rating of 70a
but no harsh rattling
very good for the street imo
spot on
does the job but no rattles
Who sells the spoon ones?
Mugen and spoon is the sorta the same as innovative, just that it looks more OEM in the stock black colour. For me personally, innovative is cheap and servies it purpose very well
In reference to soild mounts, 60a is certainly not solid. Solid is 85a and upgrader to solid metal
Ebay has heaps of em,
If you get stuck then PM, there is one guy that i get it from
nah...go the spoon luke,woolworths, aisle 4,next to the knives & forks,heaps cheap
I got my innovative billet mounts (60A red) for $400 delivered from Ebay, and that's before the dollar recovered to what it is now.
DC2 Integra, B18C, I haven't got them installed yet (in a week or two).
i did mine and it was all good. No harsh vibrations at all.
The car certainly feels more responsive turning quickly
energy suspension
Rear mount and 2 torque mounts
Everyone referring to (especially Ron) Sikaflex 227.
My concern is that its gonna be too soft, because I have heard people use 227 for the windscreen sealant?? being used in that sort of application would mean that its quite soft??? I wouldn't really know. Can anyone confirm this.
I bought a tube of 227 ready to fill in my mounts very, very soon.
Should I exchange it for a tube of 255???
My application is just spirited street driving.
Thanks
255 black used here. Still shaking my dash 3 years on.
It's VERY important to use clean non-cracked mounts to fill !
you have any opinion on 227 Bennjamin?
Anyone used Bostik Seal n Flex for their mounts, I just filled my mounts with that before i found this thread.....:(
Its polyurethane as well, have a friend used it with no problems...
pretty much all the same stuff isn't it?
guys in the US use 3m's window weld stuff
i've used sikaflex 252 and i reckon that stuff is softer than the energy suspension inserts and generally all other solid mounts i've felt
I couldnt find the bostik stuff in bunnings the other day,
so I bought sikaflex 252s instead. I must say sikaflex dries much faster and seems harder than the bostik ones. The bostik one was a little runnier making it easier to fill the mounts with though...
Another thing i learnt after doing the second mount. Because these things are so sticky and not runny at all, its very difficult to fill it 100% without any air pockets inside. After letting it dry for about 4 hours, the outside surface will be dry to the touch. Now I could use my fingers to compress the filling without getting my hands all gooey. once compacted, u can fill it up again if u wish. Doing a little at the time greatly increases drying time. My first mount i did it in one go and is still wet on the inside after 3 days....sigh...
bostick is a different brand, its only silicon, stikaflex is designed for specific applications & its longer lasting