hi guys, i bought a dc4 integra gsi few month ago and just wondering which engine oil is most suitable for it... atm its running with 10w-40...not sure what brand it is though..cheers
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hi guys, i bought a dc4 integra gsi few month ago and just wondering which engine oil is most suitable for it... atm its running with 10w-40...not sure what brand it is though..cheers
40 weight? 50 weight?
40 weight sounds nice.
what does the manual specify? Maybe that's a good starting point
are you losing oil? Maybe thicken it up a bit
I would use a 10w30 or 10w40 depending how many kms the engine has done
as previously mentioned. how many k's has motor done and does it use any oil? if high k's or using oil i'd go to a 15w. also depends what part of the country ur in too.
And with thicker oil comes 'less' leaks as it's a band-aid solution (if there are leaks)
but comes with lower fuel economy as the oil pump has to work harder to pump the thicker oil around
And as the first few have said how many kms, do you leak oil between oil changes, whats the colour of the smoke coming out of your tailpipe?
Get back to us :)
5-40w in winter
10-40w in summer !
like said above. But id just use 10-30 and top up regularly. I found thick oil Eg 20-50 may not leak or burn as much. But turns into sludge, this can cause more problems.
I no my dc2R gets 5-30 and my CRV gets 10-30 Neither drink or leak!
Also 10w is good to something like -5 degress. In Sydney it never gets that cold!
i think what he meant to ask is for b18b if is it better to use semi synth or full synth, or doesnt matter?
5-30 if no leaks/smoke, 10-40 if leaks/smoke.
Full synthetic.
Its a dc4. I would go semi or full mineral. No point spending big bucks on oil for a non sport car. Just ensure u service 10,000 km at the most!!!!!!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by dougie_504
Synthetic oils generally lubricate better than minerals when cold, despite having the same thickness ratings. Why wouldn't you spend an extra $10-20 each service to protect your engine from cold wear?
Thanx heaps for replying guys... well 'I'm in melbourne and I had this car during winter......I also drive a lot....it has been about nearly 4 months since i bought the car and i have already done nearly 5000km.. the car has done 190,000 km atm and has no oil leaks....smoke out of the car seems to be normal to me :)
Proper synthetic is double to triple the price. Not all full synthetic are FULL synthetic, there only semi. Eg castrol edge 5w-30
Im not saying get homebrand oil or something. But id spend around the $30-$35 dollar mark. And just service regularly!
If you every got your car serviced at Honda they use there semi synthetic oil unless you specify other wise!
Contemplating if i should use 5-30 myself. I hear a lot of people against it and a lot for it. Whats the deal? And Benefits? And why do ppl go 5-40 in winter and 10-40 in summer?
The 1st number or the number with the W after it is the volocity of the oil at start up. You want the oil thinner in colder weather. But 10W is good for -7 degrees or so.Quote:
Originally Posted by eLtrix
the 2nd is the oils velocity at running temp said to be 100 degrees
thinner is better for cold start protection, gets everywhere quickly
but if it's too hot thin oil can break down and stop protecting
hence the different viscosities in summer and winter
Ahh okay. Well its summer soon so i guess i should just stick with the 10-40 for now and switch to 5-30 in the winter next year. Even though melb is pretty retarded in terms of weather conditions.
other wya round
thicker oil in hotter weather
Castrol Edge uses at least group 3 synthetic base, no mineral oil in there.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM DC2R
- if they dont use group 3 or higher, they cant legally call it "full synthetic"
and they dont cost "3x" as much as you claim.
semi-syn castrol magnetec 5w-30 is almost $40 dollars, valvoline durablemd semi synthetic is almost $60, while Penrite HPR5 is only $50 and is group3 synthetic just to name 1.
Im using group 5 racing grade synthetic oil thats like $60 for 5 litres from the US, not that expansive.
I also use American oil and get Mobil 1 EP 5w-30 for $70 for 6 quarts. But if you buy the cheaper oil from the same importers your looking around $25 for 6 quarts.
Also google castrol edge fake synthetic
if ur dumb enough to run castrol u deserve the early engine failure you will get... as for price point. 30-35 isnt gonna cut it in most weights for a decent oil. eg. HPR15 (what i would recommend if you were up here in QLD) retail hovers around the $40 mark. being in VIC Probs best to be running a 10 weight instead. unless ur tracking it, HPR 10 will do the job. if you are hitting the track, worth your while going to a penrite racing blend or mobil, royal purple etc.
10-40 is fine year round. We don't get freezing cold winters and it's fine for summer too.
I used usdm Mobil 1 EP 5w-30 from GLLuricants..... It's a group 3 mix base oil just like the Castrol edge sportQuote:
Originally Posted by JDM DC2R
Don't get me wrong, i loved that oil, but that's down to its addictive package. The base oil for USDM mobil 1 it is still majority hydro-cracked group 3, just like Castrol edge sport. unless you are going to the high temp range like 0w-40 where more group 4 is needed.
I've got a 98 Integra GSi as well. Just hit 180,000kms. I'm currently running Castrol Magnatec 10W40, which seems to be doing fine, considering its not chewing oil. Although I'm thinking of trying a 5W40, with the assumption that it will warm up quicker.
My friend recommended Valvoline synpower 5W40, which I believe is a full synthetic.
Getting away from Magnatec in general is a good idea as I believe I mentioned earlier in this thread. The first question is where do you live? As the climate will also dictate which oil to use.
I live in Melbourne. Where u can experience up to 4 seasons in one day. Haha. Summer usuallly max 40 degrees. Winter only goes negative overnight, and averages 12 degrees during the day.Quote:
Originally Posted by menacer
1. In these conditions, what oil would you recommend? Especially if I mainly do shorter trips, usually 10 mins or less.
2. What exactly do you not like about Castrol Magnatec? It seems to be working fine for me.
3. Would a 5W engine oil be too thin for the summer? As mentioned before, the car has done 180,000 kms.
https://encrypted-tbn2.gstatic.com/i...CIdFDDW6Hcwawn
just run the 10w40 and change it every 6 months man. magnatec will be fine.
To quote me :
For your specific situation I'd be running some engine flush when you do your change and running a decent 10w oil (eg. Penrite HPR10). with almost 200,000k's dropping to a 5 weight for daily driving isn't worth the potential risks and extra costs.Quote:
Originally Posted by menacer
ballin broQuote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
choc flavor
10-30 magnatec is the best
Yeah I saw your quote on Castrol earlier. You haven't said why you don't like Castrol. Yeah I've been doing engine oil flushes when I first got it serviced at 177,000kms in Feb. So I'll probs continue with that.Quote:
Originally Posted by menacer
Also, what exactly are the potential risks for running a 5W? The only thing that comes to mind is that it would be too thin for the summer. If worst comes to worst, I'll just top up with 10W40.
u got it backwards?Quote:
Originally Posted by vs2306
the first number is for viscosity on cold climate.
look at your service manual and stick to what it recommends. they made your engine.
use the thinnest oil that dosent burn but start with what the manual recommends and go up if need be.
Running a 5 weight will risk having oil pressure issues is the main concern. and for unless u were tracking it its not worth it. As for castrol (in the interest of not turning this thread into a war with the fanboys) lets just say, too much time and money spent on advertising instead of R&D. I'd strain and reuse my hpr15 before using magnatec... But ur car ur call. If u do keep running it, definately keep flushing every change and change Regularly!
That's exactly what I'm gonna do. If the 5W40 does start getting consumed easily, I'll just top up with 10W40.Quote:
Originally Posted by Daveho1
Here's an image from the owners manual:
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/818/nrgp.jpg/
http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/818/nrgp.jpg/
http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/5862/nrgp.jpg
Uploaded with ImageShack.us
i wouldnt recomend mixing oils, in addition any high quality oil will suffice for a daily driver, im not 100% what "the good oil" was in 1998 but im sure a quality oil from the big manufacturers will exceed the original quality specs
You can mix oils
Not weights :P
....you sly kun7 hehe
Are you sure you can't mix weights? I know its not the best thing to do, but its not exactly harmful for the engine, as far as I know.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasemas
It's a play on wordsQuote:
Originally Posted by vs2306
Yeah I've been talking to some people and decided that 5W40 is probs not worth the risk. Since you seem to be an advocate for Penrite. I'm thinking of trying the following. Both these are 10W40 full synthetics.Quote:
Originally Posted by menacer
Everyday Full Synthetic 10W40 - http://www.penriteoil.com.au/engineo...id_products=27
Racing 10 - http://www.penriteoil.com.au/engineo...d_products=277
Is there honestly a difference between the two? Racing 10 is about $35 more at supercheap auto. But at the end of the day they're both 10W40 full synthetic.
While they are both good, they are not the same.Quote:
Originally Posted by vs2306
The cheaper "full synthetic" is a group 3 base oil, it's made from crude oil, Group III base oils are sometimes described as synthesized hydrocarbons, or hydrocracked, it's fake synthetic so to speak.
Group 4 base oils are polyalphaolefins (PAOs)
Group 5 base oils are classified as all other non-petroleum oils, such as polyester and esters.
thanks fredoops. so as u can see not all oils are created equal. for your purposes Hpr10 would do the job well. you could run racing if you really want but as the name suggests this is designed for race cars, (main difference is that it is shear free) even then its not a must i know quite a few people running hpr products in their dedicated track cars with great success. you could also run the everyday 10w40 if you wanna save a bit more but as previously stated its barely a full synthetic, in fact its only in the the past year that it has become considered a 'full synthetic'.
personally I'd suggest you jump on their website and look into the products. they have quite indepth info on all their products as well as good info on what everything means.
Its odd that people are willing to use full synth and spend approx. $60 per oil change for general dailys like gsi,civics etc. yet run the cheapest rda brakes,china tyres,taiwanese suspensions..
maybe its just me but that doesnt sound kosher
as long as my vtek goes hard its kosher mate
yer dat booo BAAAA
Also don't forget that $9 Ryco oil filter as a K&N filter is a waste of money hahahaQuote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
Thanks for that, much appreciated. So the everyday full synthetic is just a marketing gimmick. I won't be using that anytime soon haha. So you think HPR 10 would be best? Would there be a big difference in running a 10W50 instead of 10W40. I prefer not to thicken the oil up, unnecessarily.Quote:
Originally Posted by menacer
not rocket science son. just use any semi syn or syn 10w40, you won't feel a difference. maybe the full syn make car bit faster cos lighter wallet in cabinQuote:
Originally Posted by vs2306
9 dolla for filta, fuk dat.
just fill wit degreaser tip out and use again.
tip used degreaser on engine for cleans
Cbauto has been using recycled filters on customer's cars for years, no complaints so far.Quote:
Originally Posted by Daveho1
The residue degreaser in the filter acts as an engine cleaner.
Saves you money and better for the engine.
Ryco filters aren't that bad.Quote:
Originally Posted by Jasemas
Audm Mobil 1 5w30 is group 3 or 4?Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
I remember reading it somewhere as a mix of mostly group 3 and some group 4Quote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
0w-40 is group 4 im pretty certain (gold bottle, expansive as hell)
I'm using the 5w30 Mobil 1 from GL for all my cars.
Thought it was group 4
I'm using this one Mobil 1 EP 5w30, how to tell if au or usdm?Quote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
http://autosphere.com.au/p/7087226/m...--1-quart.html
3/4 mix or group 4?
It comes in quarter gallon.Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
Definitely usdm and therefore mix of 3 and 4 as mentioned .
Can you please provide some links for educational reading.Quote:
Originally Posted by Fredoops
I have no idea what to search for.
www.bobistheoilguy.comQuote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
Search for Mobil 1, "Base Oil"
since base oil groups are not publicly avail info, sometimes you had to read between the lines of advertising material....
for example:
.... thats a group 3.Quote:
Mobil 1™ Synthetic ATF combines high-performance synthetic hydrocarbon base oils and a balanced additive system for higher performance than conventional fluids.
when people ask specifically about the issue they got a politicians answer
http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...Base_Oils.aspx
I've decided to give Nulon Semi Synthetic 10W30 a try. I really don't think full synthetic is gonna make significant improvement on an Integra GSi. Its pretty much the same spec as Genuine Honda FEO engine oil. Hopefully it won't chew through the oil.
http://www.nulon.com.au/products/Sem.../#.Ukqu7X9upIY
Actually, this is bad info...
The owners manual (I have one) states the GSi is designed to use full synthetic. It's simply a matter of the climate you live in as to what viscosity you run, but the GSi engine is rated for fully synth. I'd also recommend you use Honda Type II coolant... If you live in the north, or west you can get away with a 20w 40. Where as if you live south of Queensland I'd probably run a 15w 40 though or a 10w 40, if you in the Snowy regions around Canberra, Melbourne, Tasmania or further inland Queensland around the granite belt region. You run the risk unnecessarily of not getting enough oil pressure with a 5w 40 unless you're tracking a car.
I have a GSi I just changed the timing belt and water pump on with no wear what so ever after 70000km, runing 15w 40, and Honda type II coolant, the water pump came out of my car when I serviced it as new, zero corrosion, my engine as a whole has not even developed a puff of smoke, so after 70000km zero wear... Oils and coolants cost bugger all, don't be a tight arse when in the long run it's just going to shorten the life of your car and cost you a much more expensive bill later on.
It's real simple... actually let me get a picture for you:
http://i40.tinypic.com/ethdo9.jpg
Run high quality synthetic oils, e.g. Motul, Fuchs, Total, etc... and save your engine in the long run, I've always used Fuchs or Total oils, Castrol Mobil, Valvolne and Shell are generally shit, it goes up from there, Penrite, Penzoil, etc. Saving $20 on oils only to cause unnecessary engine wear is really quite stupid. Other than that it's straight forward, the lower the W rating the quicker the oil gets up to temperature when its cold and the less dry engine running which can cause engine damage. Because we live in a country with largely varied temperatures you want a bit of both hence the 40, so as it actually handles the heat as well as the cold we get. temperatures vary wildly from -20 to +40 you really need a good W (Winter) grade as well as a good summer grade, hope that helps.
So I finally did an oil change today. The oil filter was a nightmare, since the car wasn't up on a hoist. For those of you who own an Integra GSi, will understand.
I ended using Nulon Semi Synthetic 10W30, hopefully there's a noticeable improvement from Magnatec 10W40. Used a Ryco Z79A for the oil filter.
The oil filter that was used by the mechanic when I got it serviced, was not equivalent to the Z79A, but it was interchangable Z547. Now the Ryco website, recommends the Z79A. So I'm a little bit concerned.
After googling both oil filters, I came across another filter brand called Micro Filters, their website claims that their Z547 is ok for the Integra (doesn't specify what year) http://microautofilters.com.au/f547.html.
Micro Filter Z79A = http://microautofilters.com.au/F79.html
I haven't had oil pressure issues, so I'm not sure whether this is a problem or not.
Should I be worried?
the lower the w rating, the quicker the oil gets up to temperature?Quote:
Originally Posted by Integra-GSi
wat
z79a is the right filter.
Haha a little bit mad, coz I'm not sure whether using a completely different oil filter is bad for the car. As I said before, I didn't have any issues while driving.Quote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
Yeah I know Z79A is correct.
tbh if you changing you filter regularly (ie so it dosnt clog) then on most petrol engines the filter dosnt matter as long as it fits the tread and seals well. on some current diesels it can be an issue though
Rep above post please guise.
If you're changing every 5k km's, doesn't matter what shifty filter you use, as long as it has anti-drain back valve.
I bought bulk China pack, 28 bux 12 filters.
For my DC2R I drop in Royal Purple 5-30 (45K kms) and switch to 10-40 if the ambient temp soars. Given that I change oil at 4 months or 3000 kms and that it's my weekend ride, the months come up first. 10-40 if I know I'm going to do an interstate run in summer.
Closer to your GSi is my '86 E30 BMW which gets full synth 10-40 all year round as does my partner's CXi Civic. Neither are high revvers (the E30's 2.7 6cyl redlines at 4500 with diesel-like torque). The E30's odometer stopped working at 240K kms 6 years ago but I never need to top the oil up (had to replace front and rear main-seals 4 years ago though). The CXi goes through a little bit of oil between changes. Both cars get changes at 5000/4months. I admit I go overkill.
When we bought them second hand, both of the above cars were on mineral oil. I ran one mineral change through both but found it to break down quicker than I was used to with cars I'd run full synth in previously. Switched both to synthetic and it comes out better between changes (placebo probably and no evidence to back it up but for me, the cars just "feel" better). When I stop stuffing around with custom turbo setups for the M20B27 in the E30 and just drop a 1JZ in I'll probably move to a better brand of synth.
Magnatec is marketing hype and is very average IMO.
The only recent car I've owned that I didn't use synthetic in was my EH Holden - the rope seal at the back of the motor is designed to let oil out so that it washes over the underbody and stops the car from rusting :D Also, it's part of that genuine Holden feeling.
Wow nice. Well I was keen to try a 10W30, instead of a 10W40, with the intention of it improving fuel economy, and the car warming up quicker.Quote:
Originally Posted by Setanta
I've always known magnatec is average oil, nothing revolutionary. But it works with my car.
I honestly don't know what to think with synthetic oils in older cars. I've read mixed opinions on whether its ok or not, and if there is actually an improvement. I'm not saying to be cheap with engine oil, but I don't see the point of going over the top if it barely makes a difference.
But as you said, you replaced your seals. So the seals will probably adapt to synthetic oil.
Btw I love E30's and hope to own one in the future. Preferably a 318is.
Thanks. So I guess its nothing to worry about. That's a relief :).Quote:
Originally Posted by Daveho1
Is that why you had to replace the main seals a few years ago because you went from dino to full synthetic?Quote:
Originally Posted by Setanta
and it blew out the seals?
Mate it doesn't effect how long it takes for your car to warm up or fuel economy. I've used 5-30 full synth, 10-40 semi and currently using 10-50 full.
The only thing that's changing is the viscosity/thickness of the oil at operating temperature.
Fuel economy is the same. Engine warms up in the same amount of time. Only difference is that I burn less oil because its thicker when warm. And that was my desired outcome.
As for synthetic in older engines it's not a big deal as far as GSI's are concerned lol. It's not a big deal using mineral in modern cars either. Generally synthetic oils lubricate more effectively at cold start and mineral oils burn less when warm.
And if I were you I'd be using 10-40, especially in summer if you do spirited driving. Going thinner won't change your life except make you blow smoke.
Quote:
Originally Posted by vs2306
Wrong. Changing viscosity effects fuel consumption.Quote:
Originally Posted by dougie_504
10w50?Quote:
Originally Posted by dougie_504
Must be 19mm
Really? I've read otherwise from many sources, and it seems logical that thicker oil will result in worse fuel economy. For instance, if I run a thick oil in my GSi like a 20W50. It would affect fuel economy, because the oil pump has to work harder to circulate the thicker oil. I'm not saying thicker oil is bad, this is just an example.Quote:
Originally Posted by dougie_504
Perhaps with my scenario from 10W40 to 10W30, might not make a noticeable difference. But I'll never know until I try.
As for the effect on warming up the engine quicker, not 100% sure about this. But I definitely agree with you on using synthetic on older engines not being a huge deal.
Exactly. This is why I'm trying 10W30. To see if it will make a difference from 10W40.Quote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
Burning/losing oil isn't a bad thing.
Excessive losing/burning oil is.....
i personally run a 15w-40 semi synthetic in my b18c and the reason is simple;
thats what that my engine needs.
try a 10w-30 then if its going through a fair bit of it swap it out to something a bit thicker, pretty straight forward.
thats the dumbest thing i think i have ever heard.Quote:
Originally Posted by Setanta
Your right foot and driving habits will make more of difference compared to going from 10w-40 to 10w-30.Quote:
Originally Posted by vs2306