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Na not picking on you man.. I know it will only be due to different dyno read-outs but I do believe Adrians is one of the close's round on real numbers..Quote:
Originally Posted by c1v1c
I'd love hit'n 160 NA and I might not even boost of I get those numbers
whats the gains like with a toda exhaust??
does Toda have anymore Dyno Days coming up? wouldn't mind seeing what the stock EP3 can do.. it'll help me monitor if any mods i do make any difference..Quote:
Originally Posted by egads
Hey guys, Ive been a little worried about my vtec recently, it seems to cut in at about 6.5k rpm not the 5850 its supposed too, i put more oil in there, so oil isnt an issue, it normally would worry me but when i shift up, im nbot straight into vtec, i have to wait 1sec or so for vtec to re-kickin, any ideas why?
stock ECU? i thought the vtec point is around 6200. have your car been warmed up?
when you shift up, what is the rev drops to? if below the vtec point then u'll need to wait for the rev to go up first.
yea stock ecu, only diff on car is engine mounts and intake, oh ok, sorry i thought i read it was 5850rpm, i only hear the cross over at about 6.4-6.5 im not 100% sure about the revs dropping, ill check more, but they're generally quick shifts expecially from 1st - 2nd
funny...mine kicks in at about 5850rpm lol, but then...it is at the mechanic getting checked out due to engine warning light. lol
hmmmm, need to find the figure from a manual then or something, i really want to take mine to a mechanic but there are no decent ones close enough for me to drop in and go to work lol, anyone know any good mechanics in brisbane? ie, relativly close to a train station lol
i go to Centrax Auto at MacGregor and some people said good things about Honda Care at Sumner Park.
i'm sure you can ask them to drop you off at train station/bus stops.
there was discussion about this a few pages back.Quote:
Originally Posted by mattatnoosa
I remember as i was a little concerned as well. I can hear it kick in about 6k but it isnt really screaming until 6.5, seems to be the norm going off other posts.
Perhaps if you dont hear it at all around 6 it has something to do with type of oil you are using or perhaps some bad fuel???
Also does anyone else think that vtec is more agressive when you shift down gears e.g. i find it pulls better when i shift from 3rd to 2nd, as opposed to if i rev it out from 1st to 2nd.
Get a CAI and u'll start hear it better. get solid engine mounts and you will never miss the crossover lol
I have an injen cold air intake and i have innovative 60a engine mounts, i'm using castrol magnatec 10-40w i believe (ill double check when i get home) its full of it as after 1-2 weeks after i bought it off its previous owner, i found out that the oil levels were just below the low dot :/ and didnt seem to be preforming well, i want to drain it now, but dont have a manual, can you drain oil without replacing the filter?
you can drain oil without replacing the filter but a filter is <$20 so i would replace it regardless.
i'd also suggest getting better oil than magnatec.
if i buy used car, i would replace all fluid just to be sure. Honda gearbox oil aren't too expensive and coolant is cheap.
re the vtec point, i'm pretty sure it's over 6000rpm. FD2R is around 5800rpm. that's according to the JDM mags i have at home.
ok, what exact oil should i be using? i was in a rush just to refill it last time, any particular oil filter i need? anybody got instructions on how to replace the oil in an ep3?
please , at a minimum use a HONDA oil filter and HONDA FEO oil.
Ok I will, other than a Honda dealer any accessible places I can get this stuff from?
jdmyard, shift etc
You should also replace the drain bolt washer too. need 1 each for engine oil and gear box oil (if u do that as well).
Maybe there's a problem with the vtec solenoid?
Vtec kicks in at 5.8 for me just before 6 but the noticeable noise is around 6-6.3 only running a gruppe m.
As for oil I think you do Honda feo to clean the engine first, I didn't I used anglom oil 10/40 to clean the engine when I first had it, now running motul 300v and I like it could feel a difference of how responsive engine was. Oem filter is a must or get the mugen ones but it's pricier. As for gearbox use Honda else go for castrol syntrans 75 something can't remember on top of my head. It's been pretty smooth shifting with castrol. Maybe you're ecu is in limp mode if vtec feels sluggish powers been cut if so I can recommend you a place to fix in south west Sydney.
Dont know if it may help. But after my gruppe m was installed i reset my ecu. Give this a try and see if it helps.
How do I check/ find out wether it's my vtec solenoid?
And how do I do an ecu reset? Anyone got a fit guide?
Generally if you just unplug your battery, it will clear the ecu.
Hey guys, here's a question.....How accurate is your dash at reading the revs? bet its out 100-300rpms. Wouldnt read too much into it. You'll generally know if there was an issue.
And BTW, what are you guys looking at when the car is revving to 6000+ rpms? the road and hope!
You're right. It is out by 100-300rpms. I had to readjust mine to it get it a lil closer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nepolian
I used my greddy infometer to tell me what the ecu's reporting and then offset the needle accordingly. Lucky the mapping is closer to 1 to 1 (linear response) otherwise there's something electrically wrong with the cluster.
After that, Cold start now show's closer to 1.5k rpm and the rev limiter is now reporting at 8.6k rpm instead of 9k.
jdmyard and shift both make it very hard to order online, anyone know where i can get these parts from in brisbane? and what bolt washers do i need? anyone got a guide?
What parts are you looking for ?
If you're talking about engine oil, just go to autobarn or honda dealership. Save yourself the shipping cost.
yea the Honda FEO oil and honda oil filter, and the washers, do they get sold at autobarn??
No autobarn dont sell FEO or honda filters but they got decent branded oils such as motul, royal purple, castrol edge, elf and etc
If you're looking specifically for OEM then just go to your local honda dealership.
no they don't. just buy them at Honda dealer.
ok i got my things to pick up from the honda dealer, the FEO oil and filter, where do i get the washers? and what ones? and what about gearbox oil?
While you're at honda, you can get the washer from them too. They'll know what to provide you.
Not sure if anyone else can agree with me on this. I personally recommend Honda OEM MTF for transmission fluid. Approximately $17 per bottle. Each bottle is 1L. You will need 2 bottles.
Both me and my friend tried aftermarket brands and found they can lead to the gearbox feeling weird and notchy. Due to paranoia, we swapped to OEM fluids and it felt smooth. Gear shifts don't feel notchy anymore. Based on our experiences, we concluded that it's best to stick with OEM for transmission fluid.
ok sounds good, so im planning on getting Honda FEO oil, OEM oil filter and Honda MTF from honda, + the washers, now does ANYBODY have a diy guide or anything for the gearbox and oil change!!?? lol
Quick How-To
DIY Guide here
has any1 had any experience on the kiddracing headers?
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...m=290405919324
any gains over the oem?
$400 delivered aswell
Quote:
Originally Posted by hong91
Read back man
Ben and I have some arriving soon..
And as allready stated I'll dyno and let yall know
I'm looking at my laptop when I rev my car. Just like the guy in fast and furious ! Dam I'm too cool for school !Quote:
Originally Posted by Nepolian
Sent from my HTC Desire using Tapatalk
You rock Steve!Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSteve
HOON!!Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSteve
Sent from my work computer using Mozilla Firefox
Ok guys, just went down to Honda, got the FEO oil, 2L of MTF, new oil filter and the washers for replacing the MTF, fingers crossed it all goes well this weekend :/
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSteve
Steve you cool cat. Do you have a ps3 hooked up to the headunit play whilst you're at the lights?
iPhone safari > tapatalk
in the spirit of asking wayyy too many questions, what psi do you run your tyres at? (on stock rims)
It should be over 30 +
omg howd you know ! ! :eek::eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
I run my car on 40psi when rubber is hot
Peaked through when you weren't looking
sweet....got my windscreen fixed today at ralph moore. They're a totally cool and funny bunch of ppl!
got there at 8:30 in the morning and they started working on it in 10 minutes. 4hrs and heaps of laughs later, the new windscreen was fixed in place and i was ready to leave the place.
Would definately recommend them if anyone with a broken windscreen needs it replaced. and also only paid $660 all up! DEAL!
pity they only have one windscreen left though.
thanx to steve for recommending the place!
hey guys,
I'll be up in terrigal for the next week if any of the northies want to meet up gimme a ring 0435518074 :)
Honda-Civic-Si-2002-2003-Service-Manual
found this link in my web browsing last week: http://pdftown.com/Honda-Civic-Si-20...ce-Manual.html
not too sure if this one has been posted before...
1000+ pages of ep3 goodness! very handy to have, note it is for the USDM left hand drive Si, but i'd assume most of the stuff in there can be applied to JDM ep3r, i.e how to pull stuff apart & put it back together.
it's been posted b4 but ages ago and buried in the 10,000+ post somewhere. thanks againQuote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
our car is slightly different to the USDM. eg i was pulling the central console off and JDM has 2 extra screws which weren't shown up on the US manual so be extra careful while using this. it's really a guide only.
Good job Phil!Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
Hey, if you think there is something useful....give me a link and I'll put it on the first page of the Sydney EP3 thread so there is a proper database for the EP guys :)
i think a proper database is good. thanks George.Quote:
Originally Posted by Nepolian
Can anyone recommend a good set of spark plugs for the EP3?
I know of the brands Denso and NGK. But are there any specific models I should be looking out for?
I was looking at NGK iridium spark plugs but every time i went to a new website, they recommended a different one. One said BKR7EIX and another said BKR7EIX-11. The NGK and supercheap auto site said ZFR6FIX-11 for a 1.8l k20 engine EP3 which was weird. For a DC5R it said IFR7G-11KS. The 1.1mm gap size is the most recommended one. Tell me which one you end up getting.
Hey guys i got an EP3 today! Only there are a few problems. The mechanic who inspected didnt eve realise the rev meter doesnt work.....
Also i found this plug that doesn't have anything connected to it next to the clutch. Is there suppose to be a plug there?
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...12010520-1.jpg
post pics of the entire car and some details peppex.
You mean the tacho doesnt work, did you not drive it first?
Mine has the plug as well, my thinking was alt power source if required. Anyone confirm this?
I post some pics later :)Quote:
Originally Posted by twelve
I am still kinda learning manual, i can drive the back streets but not confident enough to drive on the highway yet.
I got Stateroads to look over it and the guy even test drove it... and he didnt notice itMy friend drove it home for me and he didnt notice it. When i was driving in the back street first thing i knew was the rev meter wasnt working:(. I hope its not a big problem. I am taking it back to the dealer to get it fixed in the next couple of days.
Also can a mechanic check if the speedo shows the correct speed? Just want to double check everything on the dash.
Quote:
Originally Posted by PeppeX
That is the Diagnostics Plug, if ever your engine warning light comes on. Conect pins 4 and 9 with a paperclip or anything metal, and switch on the car to accessories. The light will start blinking, I cant remember where to get our codes from, but they are definately on the net somewhere.Quote:
Originally Posted by twelve
I've got greddy infometer that plugs into that diagnostic connector you had took a photo of.
You can ask ur mechanic to check with their ODB2 scanner or PM me if you wanna check if ur revs/speedo are sync'ed with ur ecu.
I think your cluster has been tampered with. Most likely who did it has pushed the needle into its shaft too far such that it tightens up and is no longer free to move. A friend of mine had the same issue but all he had to do is to remove the needle and pushed back into the shaft gently without seizing it up. After that, the needle was free move again.
If what's been said above doesn't work then you basically have a fried up tachometer due to dodegy tampering imo.
Hey anybody bought lower rails for the seats? I was in a dc2 the other day and the driving position was brilliant, I want my civic to feel more like a race car!
wooow you picked up the car pretty quick, wish we could of test drove the car that day.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeppeX
@ Peppex: Welcome to the EP3 club, yo! =)
it'll take time, but with more confidence, you'll get the hang of manual. Heck, i feel weird and unsafe driving automatic transmission nowadays. Almost hit the brake with my left foot once as well! any of you guys done the same thing?
btw...we having an end of year meet? would be a good time to plan it out now. Wouldn't want another "we'll plan it on the day".
I have this problem with the work vansQuote:
Originally Posted by flubbar
"""i feel weird and unsafe driving automatic transmission nowadays""
Feels like I have no control
i have lowering rails and they make a huge different.Quote:
Originally Posted by mattatnoosa
but driving position is still not perfect. the steering wheel is too far away from me. i must say the stock DC2R driving position is perfect.
agreed i wish the steering wheel from factory had the option to bring the steering wheel forward >_<Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperSteve
You guys got midget arms or what :P
adjust your seat forever you hoonQuote:
Originally Posted by SuperSteve
Hey how do i remove the back plastic thing behind the back number plate? I unscrewed the number plate but there are 3 bolts/screws holding it! I dont know how to get it off!
http://i130.photobucket.com/albums/p...5112010521.jpg
congrats on the buy man, take a picture of the black plate
I just uploaded one :)
The 2 silver bolt looks like a big rivet or something. But i am totally clueless how to take it off. U cant shift the black thing left or right because of the silver bolts
Ive hit the brakes once accidentally driving auto haha scary shit. Me and the mrs are getting an ep3 hopefully in the coming weeks as a dd/2nd car would be cool if there was an EOYM
From looking at the pic I'm guessing you will need to drill two new plate holes and block off the exuding holes if you do manage to take the plastic plate off.
with the number plate thing. i guess you are not bothered if the trim is damaged?!
that being the case, you will need to try to stretch the plastic off the 2 holes thing in the middle. once the bottom is off, you need to swing it around a litte to clear the top bolt.
no need to drill anything. this was exactly what i did. my aussie number plate holes lined up with the existing screw holes.
lol i cant >_< my legs are to big and long i cant sit close because legs will hit everythingQuote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
freak!Quote:
Originally Posted by supersteve
Hey do u guys know where i can get a single din pocket and fascia for my EP3?
wreckers, dc5 guys may have one and JDM yard....
Supercheap auto also have single din pockets. though be sure of how big the pocket is. You may or may not have to cut it to make it fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeppeX
Hey guys, just wanted to know if I'll need a rear subframe brace when I do my rear sway bar.
I k ow the dc2r has an issue with subframe tear-outs when upgrading the rear swaybar.
You can buy it at AutoBarn for $30 but prolly cheaper if you go to audio shops. I got it for $20 at a local car audio shop at Hurstville.Quote:
Originally Posted by PeppeX
It's labelled Universal DIN Multi-Pocket kit by Aerpro Model#88009000
It comes with several faceplate with different size. The 2nd smallest seems to fit flush.
You will need to install the pocket first into the cage and then the headunit.
http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/9189/img0108j.jpg