Originally Posted by
Weq
Im an ass about it because you are giving d-series a bad name. All the b-series guys come in here and all they see is weaksauce weaksauce weaksauce unreliable. Sorry if u dont like my attitude, but when u rep the d, u get it whether u like it or not. What also pisses me off is guys like TODA get mhad reps and still blow up peoples engines. Then they get more money cause they blame the components of peoples setups instead of taking the fall themselves, and to their rep. People come back to them with new setups, they blow them up and then once again play the blame game.
There is nothing wrong with your setup, there is nothing wrong with your engine management. You should of never blown a headgasket. What has happened is because you exhaust is too small, you wernt making the power it should. So on the dyno toda goes and up's the timing (just like dynodave and all the other experienced tuners) to gain more power and save his rep. Unlike b-series, d-series cant take timing for shit, and all it does is increase combustion pressures to the point were the sleeves move and the headgasket blows. (cause of the added pressures of the RS ratio(amoung other things)). It might not blow on the dyno, but just playing with the timing and settting it that high for a single run starts the time-bomb ticking.
10-14deg total timing at fullboost is all u run at upto 12psi.
The guys running 25psi on stock sleeve, vitara setups are running 3-6deg total. 25psi daily without a hint of blown headgasket. They are putting down easy 11second passes. All the bullsh*t tuners in this country spin is just because they have no idea how to tune a d-series.
Compared this to a guy running 18-20deg total on b-series setup at 10psi.
Now lets see, my advice for changing ur headgasket.
Felpro in the USA have copper coated gaskets. These are your best bet and can be used out of the box. If u get an OEM type gasket, copper coat it. 1 layer, let it dry fully. Apply another layer, let it dry fully. Finally the last layer. Let it get tacky then install. Torque ARPs to 75 (with moly lube) or 85ft/lbs (with engine oil). Anything less then the above, will only result in changing your headgasket again.
PS. Yeh you can learn things yourself, but dont tell me your boost conotroller issue only cost you $25. Add dyno/labour time to that equation also. I got given lots of bad advice. Wasted lots of hours. and lots of burnt knuckles.
