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					  Originally Posted by  Weq
					 
				 
				Too much timing. D-series engines can take on average 1/2 the timing as a b-series engine. You have to keep combustion pressures down, otherwise you will blow the gasket. 
 
And the filter sucks. I never once said the (dirty) greddy filter was any better. 
 
And the exhaust has little do with the greddy turbo loosing boost. Its all to do with the bleed valves. You need a proper electronic boost controller with closed loop feedback. The stock actuator is really really bad. You need to shorten the arm until its reaches about 9psi off the gate, then get an electronic controller to up the boost from there. I had best success with the GReddy profec B (now called type-S) and the turbosmart eboost's. I tried other electronic controllers, but none could hold the boost over 5500rpm. This was with a 2.5" exhaust. Bleed valves had NOOOO luck at all. 
 
This is a typical australian thread. not learning anything from other peoples previous experiences, and then re-inventing the wheel over and over. 
			
		 
	 
  Mate we all know you had the fastest D16Y1 round and we salute you!! 
    
  Now enough with the ****ing stupid comments! 
    
  I don’t mind your input but making statements like “ This is a typical Australian thread. not learning anything from other peoples previous experiences, and then re-inventing the wheel over and over” is just retarded. 
    
  I for one like learning things as I’m doing them and don’t have a problem spending a crappy $26 bucks on a bleed valve just to see what happens. 
    
  I’m fully aware I’d more than likely have to go electric after reading some of your early posts..  
   
	
		
			
			
				
					  Originally Posted by  aimre
					 
				 
				he only owned the fasted D on this site. He only went through all this before. 
			
		 
	 
  
Yeah but there's no need to be an ass about it,, 
 
Your not Alex 
 
Luke
						 
					 
					
				 
			 
			
			
				
                                       
                                
				
		        		161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA 
EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO 
 
13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001 
   
				
                                        
			 
			
			
		 
	 
		
	 
 
 
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					  Originally Posted by  Lukezen27
					 
				 
				Mate we all know you had the fastest D16Y1 round and we salute you!! 
    
  Now enough with the ****ing stupid comments! 
    
  I don’t mind your input but making statements like “ This is a typical Australian thread. not learning anything from other peoples previous experiences, and then re-inventing the wheel over and over” is just retarded. 
    
  I for one like learning things as I’m doing them and don’t have a problem spending a crappy $26 bucks on a bleed valve just to see what happens. 
    
  I’m fully aware I’d more than likely have to go electric after reading some of your early posts..  
   
 
 
 
Yeah but there's no need to be an ass about it,, 
 
Your not Alex 
 
Luke 
			
		 
	 
 Im an ass about it because you are giving d-series a bad name. All the b-series guys come in here and all they see is weaksauce weaksauce weaksauce unreliable. Sorry if u dont like my attitude, but when u rep the d, u get it whether u like it or not. What also pisses me off is guys like TODA get mhad reps and still blow up peoples engines. Then they get more money cause they blame the components of peoples setups instead of taking the fall themselves, and to their rep. People come back to them with new setups, they blow them up and then once again play the blame game. 
 
There is nothing wrong with your setup, there is nothing wrong with your engine management. You should of never blown a headgasket. What has happened is because you exhaust is too small, you wernt making the power it should. So on the dyno toda goes and up's the timing (just like dynodave and all the other experienced tuners) to gain more power and save his rep. Unlike b-series, d-series cant take timing for shit, and all it does is increase combustion pressures to the point were the sleeves move and the headgasket blows. (cause of the added pressures of the RS ratio(amoung other things)). It might not blow on the dyno, but just playing with the timing and settting it that high for a single run starts the time-bomb ticking. 
 
10-14deg total timing at fullboost is all u run at upto 12psi. 
 
The guys running 25psi on stock sleeve, vitara setups are running 3-6deg total. 25psi daily without a hint of blown headgasket. They are putting down easy 11second passes. All the bullsh*t tuners in this country spin is just because they have no idea how to tune a d-series. 
 
Compared this to a guy running 18-20deg total on b-series setup at 10psi. 
 
Now lets see, my advice for changing ur headgasket. 
 
Felpro in the USA have copper coated gaskets. These are your best bet and can be used out of the box. If u get an OEM type gasket, copper coat it. 1 layer, let it dry fully. Apply another layer, let it dry fully. Finally the last layer. Let it get tacky then install. Torque ARPs to 75 (with moly lube) or 85ft/lbs (with engine oil). Anything less then the above, will only result in changing your headgasket again. 
 
PS. Yeh you can learn things yourself, but dont tell me your boost conotroller issue only cost you $25. Add dyno/labour time to that equation also. I got given lots of bad advice. Wasted lots of hours. and lots of burnt knuckles.
						 
					 
					
				 
			 
			
			
				
                                       
                                
				
		        		[TNT] Team No Traction - Cos No Traction Is Underrated 
 
Two turbos, is better then one.  
				
                                        
			 
			
			
		 
	 
		
	 
 
 
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					  Originally Posted by  Weq
					 
				 
				Im an ass about it because you are giving d-series a bad name. All the b-series guys come in here and all they see is weaksauce weaksauce weaksauce unreliable. Sorry if u dont like my attitude, but when u rep the d, u get it whether u like it or not. What also pisses me off is guys like TODA get mhad reps and still blow up peoples engines. Then they get more money cause they blame the components of peoples setups instead of taking the fall themselves, and to their rep. People come back to them with new setups, they blow them up and then once again play the blame game. 
  
There is nothing wrong with your setup, there is nothing wrong with your engine management. You should of never blown a headgasket. What has happened is because you exhaust is too small, you wernt making the power it should. So on the dyno toda goes and up's the timing (just like dynodave and all the other experienced tuners) to gain more power and save his rep. Unlike b-series, d-series cant take timing for shit, and all it does is increase combustion pressures to the point were the sleeves move and the headgasket blows. (cause of the added pressures of the RS ratio(amoung other things)). It might not blow on the dyno, but just playing with the timing and settting it that high for a single run starts the time-bomb ticking. 
  
10-14deg total timing at fullboost is all u run at upto 12psi. 
  
The guys running 25psi on stock sleeve, vitara setups are running 3-6deg total. 25psi daily without a hint of blown headgasket. They are putting down easy 11second passes. All the bullsh*t tuners in this country spin is just because they have no idea how to tune a d-series. 
  
Compared this to a guy running 18-20deg total on b-series setup at 10psi. 
  
Now lets see, my advice for changing ur headgasket. 
  
Felpro in the USA have copper coated gaskets. These are your best bet and can be used out of the box. If u get an OEM type gasket, copper coat it. 1 layer, let it dry fully. Apply another layer, let it dry fully. Finally the last layer. Let it get tacky then install. Torque ARPs to 75 (with moly lube) or 85ft/lbs (with engine oil). Anything less then the above, will only result in changing your headgasket again. 
  
PS. Yeh you can learn things yourself, but dont tell me your boost conotroller issue only cost you $25. Add dyno/labour time to that equation also. I got given lots of bad advice. Wasted lots of hours. and lots of burnt knuckles. 
			
		 
	 
 Weq 
 
The head gasket was gone before I every rolled into TODA the problem just increased with boost  
 
I just assumed the radiator was ****ed and it only happens now and then.. 
 
The timing close to stock on my motor and turning had nothing to do with it. 
 
Adrian installed the $26 and tuned for close to nothing and I got beers.. 
 
I never said anything was wrong with my setup or I wouldn’t have brought this kit and after years of researching as you already know.. 
 
Even Adrian admits the US per-tuned kit is great value and not once has he bagged me out about it.
						 
					 
					
				 
			 
			
			
				
				
				
					
						Last edited by Lukezen27; 05-02-2008 at 05:03 PM.
					
					
				 
				
				
                                       
                                
				
		        		161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA 
EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO 
 
13.28@106.6mph 2.117 60ft On RE001 
   
				
                                        
			 
			
			
		 
	 
		
	 
 
 
- 
	
	
		
		
			
				
				
						
						
				
					
						
							
	
		
			
			
				
					  Originally Posted by  Weq
					 
				 
				Im an ass. 
			
		 
	 
 Yes you are... 
  
Re your post... 
You couldn't be more wrong as to why this car has an issue. 
And you're way off the mark again with regard to the timing. 
But that's beside the point. 
I'm sure you'll find something else to rant & rave about... 
Then as usual, turn it around & make it all about you... 
  
Anyway go on... Reply... Throw a tantrum you moron.
						 
					 
					
				 
			 
			
			
				
                                       
                                
				
		        		TODA Performance Australia Pty Ltd
TODA Racing - FIGHTEX - MFactory - HALTECH - EXEDY
Race engines, Dyno tuning, Licenced workshop, Parts.
P:0401869524 email:  toda@todaracing.com.au  
				
                                        
			 
			
			
		 
	 
		
	 
 
 
		 
		
		
	
 
	
	
 
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
	
		
		
		
		
			
				 
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