120kw @ only 5500 RPM with the same problem even after the boost controller installed.
11psi and as the RPM go up the boost dies due to 2" exhaust lol
We hit 129kw at 12psi one run but backed the boost off for safety.
As for the whole pod filter thing Weq was going on about..
Good in theory but not true..
I lost power using the GReddy filter.. so the heat shelfed ones saying
Nuff said
Need a new head gasket though
Luke
Too much timing. D-series engines can take on average 1/2 the timing as a b-series engine. You have to keep combustion pressures down, otherwise you will blow the gasket.
And the filter sucks. I never once said the (dirty) greddy filter was any better.
And the exhaust has little do with the greddy turbo loosing boost. Its all to do with the bleed valves. You need a proper electronic boost controller with closed loop feedback. The stock actuator is really really bad. You need to shorten the arm until its reaches about 9psi off the gate, then get an electronic controller to up the boost from there. I had best success with the GReddy profec B (now called type-S) and the turbosmart eboost's. I tried other electronic controllers, but none could hold the boost over 5500rpm. This was with a 2.5" exhaust. Bleed valves had NOOOO luck at all.
This is a typical australian thread. not learning anything from other peoples previous experiences, and then re-inventing the wheel over and over.
Last edited by Weq; 04-02-2008 at 03:02 PM.
[TNT] Team No Traction - Cos No Traction Is Underrated
Too much timing. D-series engines can take on average 1/2 the timing as a b-series engine. You have to keep combustion pressures down, otherwise you will blow the gasket.
And the filter sucks. I never once said the (dirty) greddy filter was any better.
And the exhaust has little do with the greddy turbo loosing boost. Its all to do with the bleed valves. You need a proper electronic boost controller with closed loop feedback. The stock actuator is really really bad. You need to shorten the arm until its reaches about 9psi off the gate, then get an electronic controller to up the boost from there. I had best success with the GReddy profec B (now called type-S) and the turbosmart eboost's. I tried other electronic controllers, but none could hold the boost over 5500rpm. This was with a 2.5" exhaust. Bleed valves had NOOOO luck at all.
This is a typical australian thread. not learning anything from other peoples previous experiences, and then re-inventing the wheel over and over.
Mate we all know you had the fastest D16Y1 round and we salute you!!
Now enough with the ****ing stupid comments!
I don’t mind your input but making statements like “ This is a typical Australian thread. not learning anything from other peoples previous experiences, and then re-inventing the wheel over and over” is just retarded.
I for one like learning things as I’m doing them and don’t have a problem spending a crappy $26 bucks on a bleed valve just to see what happens.
I’m fully aware I’d more than likely have to go electric after reading some of your early posts..
Originally Posted by aimre
he only owned the fasted D on this site. He only went through all this before.
Yeah but there's no need to be an ass about it,,
Your not Alex
Luke
161.4KW ATW Tuned By TODA EG5 JDM B16A SiR-II TURBO
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