Nice to see it come together after all your hard work Dave, let me know how it goes on the weekend bud. ; )
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Nice to see it come together after all your hard work Dave, let me know how it goes on the weekend bud. ; )
no worries mate, i am guessing people could contact you regarding the acquistion of a decent machinist service?
Yes they sure will, we will have a full machining, cnc cylinder head and balancing service available to all shortly, just in the process of locking in a premises at the moment, whilst its been a slow set-up, rather do it right once! ; )
subscribed
again.
There are alot of B20's out there in Australia surely more people have questions about them.
You bored mate! hahaha
Will call you today too, WOT at the moment!
Yeah a little bored I hate not being able to work.Quote:
Originally Posted by INT DIST/TODA
All clear, send PMQuote:
Originally Posted by JDMasFCUK
Didnt realize was full
I'm about to drop a b18 head and b20 bottom in my ek sometime this month. Just wondering which arp head studs do I use?
Also I've purchased skunk 2 throttle body, intake mani and a full fujitsubo exhaust from headers to the exhaust. Wondering if there are any other cheapish parts I can buy before tuning to make it worth it.
What are you doing regarding gearing?
Sorry, this is my first time going this far into modifying a car. I haven't looked into gearing so I have no clue. Do you mean the gearbox? If you do then I have the normal gli box
A Dseries box?
Oh, just did a quick google and realised its engine based not chassis. I have a b16 conversion in my gli. So I have the b16a2 box ATM.
I was going to say lol. Nice, the ratios in that are fairly good
So gearbox wise I should be fine? I'm not planning to do anything else after the tune. Mostly for street use. Once my brothers car is complete I may occasionally hit the track with him.
Can I just use the arp b18 head studs?
Yes, you will be fine with that gearbox, perfect for the street. If you have the funds, adding a nice LSD will really compliment the setup, especially on the track.Quote:
Originally Posted by Of berry
As for head studs, I have no idea lol
How much would a decent lsd cost? If its in eBay could you link it? I have no idea what to search lol
I have TypeR LSD if your interested. PM meQuote:
Originally Posted by Of berry
Free freight
Gary
any did a oil catch can on the b20,,,having some probs
What are you having problems with?
There is more than one way to do it, the easiest way is using the rear ports off the block - you will need to buy the fittings or some people go to the effort of welding bungs on the rocker cover, just make sure they are baffled from behind.
that's the way am going as well but,, i got only 2 fittings in the kit but now theres a hole on the other side as well where the black stock catch can was ??? looking at couple of pics on the net seems i need a Welsh plug of some kind
here is the kind of bung you need:Quote:
Originally Posted by antish_r
http://www.ebay.com/itm/b-series-b18...-/300708948948
and am guessing i cant buy that separate ??
thxs guys
Have a search around, some companies do sell it seperate.
Got a vernier? Use a welch plug.
Buy it at any auto store.
found a couple but they look like a alloy bung with 2 small seals on it ,,i wanna make sure it doesn't come out,,,,welsh plug FTW
It won't come out if it's the right sized Welch plug.
Quick google search;
http://honda-tech.com/showthread.php?t=729080
Ive been running the alloy o-ringed one for over a year no with no dramas, you're not going to have anywhere near enough pressure to push it out. They are a decent press fit.Quote:
Originally Posted by antish_r
you wouldn't have any pics of your setup by any chance andrew
douty washerQuote:
Originally Posted by lil_foy
what would you know about b20's?Quote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
I'm on phone ATM so can't link but I used the IPG Parts kit, has two screw in fitting adapters for -10an on the back and a big alloy oringed plug for the oem holeQuote:
Originally Posted by antish_r
thxs heaps alex
lololQuote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
and the 2 port that has been blocked off in the pics what else can be done to them ???
nothingQuote:
Originally Posted by cbauto
problem kunt?
have a look at the Energy Dynamics (EnDyn) Breather Kit
comes with everything you need to fit it.
http://www.theoldone.com/components/...eather-Kit.jpg
or alternatively, you can source the parts individually.
I am running this kit but my mate and I managed to make the same thing for cheaper using bits and pieces. Either way works great and reduces oil usage.
What do you mean? If mean the black fittings with no hoses in them they go to a breather tank like the one above - take note that the breather on that is a defect as it's venting to atmosphere, if you want it to be "legal" it has to be plumbed back. (it's in that kit but that endyn kit is pretty expensive and his really slow to ship)Quote:
Originally Posted by antish_r
I got my kit in a week from the U.S. but he charged heaps for shipping and didn't ask me if I needed it that soon lolQuote:
Originally Posted by Chr1s
I would've gone with slow and cheap shipping if I had the choice lol
these ones
They are deleted coolant lines, I don't run a heater or oem oil heat exchanger. Nothing to do with breather.
The red circle on the left is one of the breather ports.Quote:
Originally Posted by antish_r
My setup uses prelude fittings out of the back of the block, and push on hose like what you get with the endyn kit
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7253/7...12513ca8_c.jpg
nice thxs heaps alex
b20 swap done yesterday car runs amazing ,,,now to the head which one b16 or b18 or even work the b20 head ???
How would a b20 go behind an audm ys1 from a da9?
nice man, what ecu you using atm?Quote:
Originally Posted by antish_r
A B20 engine will bolt up to a B18A transmission, if that's what you are asking. All B series engines/transmissions are interchangeable except B20A from old skool prelude.Quote:
Originally Posted by Renaissance_x
I'm fairly sure B18C2 head will give better compression over B16/ITR head, but B16/ITR head will flow better and also be capable of revving a bit higher with the factory valvetrain.Quote:
Originally Posted by antish_r
the b20 ecu from the half cut CRV
what sort of prices am i looking for a b18 or a b16 head
what ecu can i use other than stock at the momentQuote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
B18c7 / b18Cr head about $400-$600 without cams. If you could get your hands on a b16a head much cheaper then I would recommend you get it if you're going to be upgrading your valvetrain I.e valves, springs, retainers etc if keeping your head stock just go for the b18 head. :)
i dont know lolQuote:
Originally Posted by antish_r
Have a look in Parts for Sale section and see whats for saleQuote:
Originally Posted by antish_r
okay ,,so the b20 head is not going to get me anywhere even if i work it out as in porting,,valves, guides,,springs etc
always do :)
not really, when you can do vtec head for under $1k.Quote:
Originally Posted by antish_r
what compression ratio does your B20B have? I understand there's a high and low comp version? (early/late model difference perhaps?)
B20 head isn't worth all that work just hold out until you get a vtec head. On firesport someone's selling a b18cr/c7 head for 1.5k nego if you're interested B18c head with buddyclub valves, TODA valve springs and titanium portflow retainers. all brand new parts with a second hand port and polished head. does not include cams.
pretty sure is 9:2:1Quote:
Originally Posted by Super-DA9
yeah saw that but he isnt nego on pricesQuote:
Originally Posted by JDMasFCUK
if you're not changing the pistons it may be wise to run a B18C2 head with a skim, should get you close to 10:1. 9.2:1 is a bit low imo.Quote:
Originally Posted by antish_r
Run skunk2/blox intake manifold if you want it to be similar to an ITR head. I think you'd benefit from the compression increase more than having slightly better flow.
i see
Are you planning on freshening up the bottom block or are you just gonna slap the vtec head on ? If you're gonna freshen it up run the RS ITR pistons 11.5:1 ( CHR1S's recommendation :) ) Not too bad in price and they have similar characteristics to Oem ITR ones. Then that way you can go for a b18 head. High comp ftw.
planning to do so,,,considering all the options,,,even turboQuote:
Originally Posted by JDMasFCUK
dammmn 11:5:1 is indeed high
B18c head with buddyclub valves, TODA valve springs and titanium portflow retainers. all brand new parts with a second hand port and polished head. does not include cams Price:$1500 neg
what do you think on that
Honestly that's not bad considering everything is basically done for you, he is nego on prices so try throw him a offer. If you're gonna be turboing it then the RS machines are not for you sonce theyre cast style pistons. You're looking to go down the forge route onviously which will set you back a bit more ... All comes down to what your future plans are really. Yeah of course NA's need high comp, but in the end most of your power is from the head. Get a nice set of cams to go with that b18c head like skunk2, toda or m22x cams ( another one of chr1s's recommendations :) ) and you should be producing satisfying numbers after the tune
thxs heaps to you and chris
next problem,,,,car dropping in revs when i reach between 100 to 140 ,,,feels like a fuel cut or rev limiter but not sure
suspects :
1. spark plug is bkr6eix -11 instead of the normal zfr6 stuff
2. change leads to a 10.2 mm
3. iacv
4. tps
anyone ?
Could you be more specific about it dropping in revs? If you can hear it drop, and feel it drop I'm assuming it could be a clutch slip. When was the last time you changed your clutch?
clutch is new
I don't see the corelation between your problems and a b20.Quote:
Originally Posted by antish_r
You should start a new thread.
Been driving my b18/b20 for about 4 months i was afraid to go past 6k rpm when i first got the engine and now im regularly pushing it to 8k rpm. Not one issue yet and the torque is heaps of fun.
Dont expect it to last longQuote:
Originally Posted by Of berry
Why?Quote:
Originally Posted by zeni-tani
You don't know what he's done to it.
whats peoples thoughts on b20's fuel consumption? with honda being green and efficient and all. for daily sub 3.5/4k rpm driving whats peoples thoughts on a stock high comp b20 vs a stock block and stock head b20 vtec?
both with the same boltons and stock internals/cr's 10.0 or 10.2 vtec (i guess intake mani/ tb would be specific but keep the headers/exhaust and intake arm/filter the same)
smaller ports/intake valves in the p75 head for better low rpm velocity and lower rpm powerband manifold, especially with 2l of displacement. swirl with the staggered primary and secondary lobes in the vtec head. and small bump in compression (i guess the increase in displacement would help with lower rpm velocity also...
i assume built b20v high comp pistons stockish non vtec lobes and associated work would have better km/l then stock.
all options tuned of course ;)
thoughts/experiences?
i imagine the stock r/s ratio would wear the rings/walls a little faster then a b16 at 8k, regardless of how well balanced ect the bottom end is.
dosent mean its gonna die in 5 thou klms though... what do you mean b18/b20 p72 head?
I also want to know the reason for thisQuote:
Originally Posted by zeni-tani
Because zeni-tani doesn't know how to build a reliable engine.Quote:
Originally Posted by Super-DA9