Or keep your car as is until you get your opens, then buy a car you really wan't.
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Or keep your car as is until you get your opens, then buy a car you really wan't.
i was in the same boat as you, savefor a better car eg b18c2/7 conversions are perfect for ur budget and quick 2 or a dc2r u wont regret it man. compared to a pile of shit vti civic that has 200,000 and has been treated like shit, or thrashed.
Yeah i wouldn't mind an engine swap. b18c7 and manual conversion same time. There's a jdm b18c engine + gearbox but stupid VIC laws... need eng cert for that so c7 seems best.
My engine still going strong though, 107xxx and won't get very much if i sell it since its a b18b2
hahahah exact same boat as me, i went kswap on my dc4 2, my car was manual tho same ks 105k.. , as i said before if u keep the exterior stock and dont act like a ****wit and no one will know. kswaps are cheap.. untill u catch the "lets make this car for track bug" shit gets expensive. but if u were on a budget u could easy do a k24 swap cheap.
Where do you source parts? Backyard job or get a workshop to do it and supply the engine and parts?
i did the work myself, parts are easy to source, most of the parts i got were people on this forum, BYP and jdm yard helped me alot. Giving advice and products. BYP have great advice, the amount of questions i asked them, im suprised they havent stopped replying to my pms by now.hahaahhaha
Yeah BYP have great people, they never stop giving out advice to my 1000's of questions. They also have great labour rates as I've heard.Quote:
Originally Posted by tripleuse
Ether way your losing money man.
Do an engine conversion.
oi youQuote:
Originally Posted by Vvvtec
updates on your car :)
If it was ME i'd sell the teg buy the egg. Use the extra coin you make from making the change to do an engine conversion.
The vti is a good start, efi and already has vtec wires makes your life easier when putting in a b series conversion. I'd skip the b16 and go for a b18 though.
The amount of labour going from auto to manual isnt really worth it imo.. Extra parts and a big pain in the ass to do!
lol you sound like me when i first got my license, went from a DC4 auto to DC4 manual to DC2 lol. i should of just went DC2 from the start.
I, like you was researching manual conversion lol, then found out its too much of a mission to convert, as you need to cut out the frame
where the shift linkage will go and took advice and bought a cheap DC4 manual got sick of that and wanted vtec got a DC2, got sick of that wanted more
power so built a B20. Surprisingly i still haven't got sick of my b20 dc2 lol.
InB4 Cool Story Bro
But how the fk can you get the car rego'd or RWC if it's an EG with a b-series. I want to stay legal and no engineer certificates etc
(teg with b18c7 is legal right? just go to vicroads and tell them theres a new engine in it from another integra? end of story?)
whats not legal about it?
262 or 282mm brakes are good, retain stock exhaust for low decibel level, engine number registered to chassis.
done.
i think he means legally be able to drive it on his p'sQuote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
I was under the impression engine swaps are illegal in VIC without an engineer certificate if it was not available in AUS from factory. So a DC2R engine in DC4 is legal, but K20 is not?
Not much to report until uni finishes :(Quote:
Originally Posted by DC2-PWR
well if thats the case then a b18c is not legal in a dc4 because they come with b18b? everything is 'illegal' at the end of the day...
yes you will need modplate for k20. even though its still less than 10%(or is it 15% in vic?) increase in displacement, it wasn't oem or an option in a dc2/4. So technically you can't legally drive it.Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
If you're that worried about legalities (and by the sounds of thing you are) then sell up and by a dc2 vtir. best option for you imo. (or a type r if you can afford it)
There's no displacement law 15% or whatever in VIC. Example would be the EG with b18c7 for sale. Guy probably got dicked driving it, forced to cancel rego and now it can't be rego'd again so it's useless.
And yeah a dc2 is at the top of my list. If one pops up i will definetely go for it
yeah its 10% umad. 15% is nsw i think.
the problem is not because it's illegal, but because it requires eng. certificate.
c7 in dc4 does not require eng. certificate afaik, not certain. optional replacement engine does not require eng. cert.
putting a v12 in eg would be illegal as it wont pass eng. cert.
once you get eng. cert, you can apply for rwc.
once you have rwc, it will be legal. whether its b18c7 or k20a2.
just do it the dodge way like most people, dont rego the engine to the chasis.
Then rear end a pulsar and sell house, sell family to pay it off cos insurance won't cover you. Fuarkkk
i was just stating an alternative.
I'm just fkn around man, i duno. Too many options and shit. Gotta think about it and do whatever is most cost effective and low risk.
mm yeh think u should got type r or vtir :) u wont regret it, and if u go vtir later on u can b20 it :)
Just buy mine lol
Just need something to last me 3 more years until i'm off my Ps and then it's WRX/STi :D
How many kms do you think is good for DC2? All the ones in VIC on carsales are like 180k+
Aim for like 15xxxx - 17xxxx? Pretty old car i guess.
Just go wrx now,black front mount with scoopless bonnet,plumb back bov and stealth stylesQuote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
nahh. ground controls in the rear. extreme stiff springs in from and kyb excel g shocks. front strut brace, cusco rear strut brace, bride brix, few other things...kinda miss the straight through sound thoQuote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
this is a good idea.Quote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
there are ways to get an exemption! ive heard of dudes getting there bosses to write a letter saying my worker needs to drive my xr6 turbo and so he needs an exemption... bam! you can drive turbo.
best example is if you work at a dealership, you can get an exemption because you have to drive all sorts of cars. so ive heard
Very very very rare to get exemption. One dude I know can only drive his xr6t ute during work days during work hours , he's a plumber. Pretty gay conditions
Shall update tomorrow night...
OoOoOoOoOo somebodies got there k24 in!
i think my next car will be an integra of some sort....miss the tight chassis on them
http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/...d=13147D3F1FD0
Only dc2 with <180k on carsales. Paint looks immac for red but it says "driven once a week". Is that a bad thing? Just needs a facelift front or JDM front
looks really nice (aside from the wheels) but dude, looking back on it in my case, it would have been easier if I had facelift to begin with, rather then messing around trying to get my ITR front on.
so if facelift is what you want, try to get it to begin with. take your time and wait for something perfect, don't "settle" for something thats not 100% what you want.
:)
I don't mind the pre-facelift rear. Infact i prefer the amber taillights. But ive got a dc2r lip at home and i wanna use it lol
no it isn'tQuote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
I don't get it...what's wrong with something like this? http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/...d=132722193776Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
It's about 150km away. And price a bit higher than i'd like to spend for a dc2.Quote:
Originally Posted by rhys.l
If that car was located in VIC it would have been sold ages ago.
It's like saying "I've got a landcruiser bull bar in my backyard, I want to get a land cruiser so i can use it."Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
Just sounds silly.....
Get the car you want, only compromise you should make is one regarding budget.
The perfect car will last a long time compared to a two hour drive.Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
definitely worth a look. I would.
If i was looking.
nomsayin...
Weren't you going to sell your auto gsi for only a few k less than this? I was prepared to fly interstate when on the lookout for a dc2r. Selling your car and finding/deciding on something else seems like it has been a massive drama for you, so 150km should be nothingQuote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
It's a different story when it's a dc2r. I'd go interstate for one of those. But yeah, if i had time i wouldn't mind driving a bit to check out cars. It's just i don't have anyone to go with, and looking by myself... i will not pick up potential problems.
wtf u mean if it was located in vic, it is in vic. melb and surrounding suburbs isnt the only part of vic.Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
What makes the dc2r worth going the distance for, but not another integra?Quote:
Originally Posted by charliebrown
They're both potential cars that you'll use, live with and love.
makes no difference. I don't see why one deserves more effort than the other.
You know what i mean Lukey. Traralgon is in whoop whoop...
Maybe i should just follow a dc2 on the road and give him an offer when he stops at maccas :/
its still in vic.
silly city people.
yeah, silly people from Melbourne.....
wait.... wot?
i drove 3.5 hours and stayed overnight in sydney to get my vti-r. sh*ts never easy when it comes to getting what you want. :/
I installed my fuel pump today, and on a DA it sucks many balls..
had to drop my tank, but i got it done cars running nicely. Just booking in a retune, and thats my last NA mod.... :O
That's one sexy dc5 man! I take it that its not rego'd? lol
more pics of ur dc5!
thanks.
Traralgon is only an hour to an hour and a half from where you live, charlie. It's really not far at all. Jump straight on the Monash freeway, easy.
i put more jb weld on my lca
Cleaned interior, vacuumed etc
gaped and changed my spark plugs today, cud be placebo effect, but it seems like it idles nicer, my idles always been messy since i changed IM and camed it
I should probably do a build thread...
*UPDATE*
So yesterday (5/11/2011) was d-day for the K20. I reved it out to 8,500RPM for the last time, and it still bought a smile to my face (Almost 5 years on)
I turned up at my friends place (Kurt) at 8am, and we waited for Jason to rock up before we started pulling things part.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...a/IMAG0181.jpg
The day started by by loosening the hub nut (Which is a 36mm for those playing at home). Now... Kurt has every tool imaginable in his shed (Including a hoist)... but didn't have a 36mm bit, so while Kurt and his dad drained all the liquids from the engine, Jason and I went for a drive to find the bit... the joys of working on cars!
We returned with the bit, and started to try and take off the bolts... simple right... wrong. After breaking two breaker bar in the space of 10 min trying to remove the bolts, Kurt decided he wanted to go buy a new ratchet anyway, so again, went out to buy parts.
He came back with a 600ft/pd ratchet, that removed the bolts in a matter of seconds. With his new toy in hand, when ever a bolt needed removing, Kurt was on the scene!
After this we needed to remove remove the sub frame. Now there are two ways of doing this. One, remove the brake assembly from the sub frame, or remove the callipers from the brakes, and drop the brake assembly with the sub frame. As you can see from the below, we chose the latter.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...a/IMAG0182.jpg
This process was fairly easy, and we have followed the RSX and TSX manuals for the entire process (Downloadable from the internet). I am retaining power steering and aircon. Aircon has not been removed from the car, and was removed from the K20, and then zip tied to a part of the engine so I don't need to worry about degassing it. As the front and rear engine mounts are connected to the sub frame, the engine was now only on the two side mounts.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...a/IMAG0184.jpg
Underside of the engine with no sub frame
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...a/IMAG0183.jpg
Next up, we needed to remove the wiring harness. Again, if you follow the manuals (RSX), it's fairly basic, and just make sure there is nothing connected to the engine. Only problem we experienced here was that the knock sensor on the front of the engine broke as we removed it! But upon closer inspection, it had either been broken for a while, or just needed a slight touch to break. As we had a hoist, dropping the engine was fairly basic.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...a/IMAG0185.jpg
Then came the fun part! The Integra was raised on the hoist as high as it would go, and the K24 was rolled over on the engine stand so it was sitting next to the K20. So to save many headaches, I've decided that I'm going to run all the K20 pulleys (Crank, alternator, air con, power steering and water pump). So these where all removed from the K20 and K24, and swapped. One thing to note, you can't JUST swap the K24 and K20 water pumps, you need to swap over the entire gallery, as the pumps are slightly different (Out by about 2mm).
So, it was 2pm, we had removed the K20 from the car, the K24 was basically finished and almost ready to go in the car. Kurt, Glen, Jason and I were all getting a little excited at the prospect of actually doing a K20-to-K24 swap into a DC5R in 1 day... but... as everyone that has done something like this know, nothing runs smoothly.
Glen started putting the spark plugs into the K24 (As it didn't come with any, which I thought was rather odd, as it still had the coil packs). He spaced the plugs, and went to put the one into cylinder 1, when he said to me "Robi, are you sure these are the right plugs, this doesn't want to go in". I confirmed they were the right plugs, and that 3 people had looked over the part number to confirm it. So he moved onto cylinder 2, and it went in perfectly... as did 3 and 4. He went back to cylinder 1, and tried again... and confirmed our worst fears... the spark plug port had been threaded, and was like that before we even got the engine.
We sat around for about 20 min... all of us rather bummed at the fact that the worst thing that had happened during the entire build to this point was that we snapped an ABS cable while removing the callipers. While we were all sitting around, some options were thrown around:
- Loctight the spark plug into cylinder 1
- Remove the head and have it helicoiled
- Remove the K20 head and put it on the K24
Honestly, option 1 was never really an option. It would have meant that I would still have to remove the head eventually, and it would probably end up costing more in the long run.
Option 3 was considered for about 5 min. Then we realised that I still want to sell the K20 to recoup a little bit of money from the build, and I would still need to buy a new head gasket... so he wasn't going anywhere anyway.
Option 2 was the option that was finally decided on. So removing of the head begun. The TSX manual came in very big use for this process, as you need to remove the head bolts in a particular order, and only do quarter turns.
Here are all the valve train components.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...a/IMAG0186.jpg
Here is the head. Spark plug port on the left is the sinister port!
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...a/IMAG0188.jpg
Here is the bottom end.
http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y12...a/IMAG0187.jpg
So during the week, the spark plug port is going to get helicoiled, and next weekend we'll put the head back on to the engine and fit it in the car. At the moment the car is sitting on the hoist, with no engine, and no sub frame. The K20 is sitting under the car, and the K24 next to it. It was rather depressing see the car in this state, as I have so much pride in it, and I was hoping to actually drive it home that day (And at 2pm, it looked like it was going to happen).
I'll update the thread next weekend once everything is back together. If anyone has any questions let me know.
Thanks
Robi
Awesome work. Build thread please, I want to see more :)
Did the thread strip?
If yes, is it worth helicoil on a perfectly normal port>?
I mean, please point out the benefits, that are not so obvious...
Thread on the spark plug didn't strip, but it wasn't smooth putting it in.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bludger
Once we took the head off, we looked at the spark plug port (From the combustion camber side), and it had previously been threaded. I'll tell the workshop it is taken to to helicoil it, but if they think it can just be rethreaded, I'll have them do that.
Damn that sux dude, have you thought of getting another cheap k20a head and swapping it over?.
Your post doesn't make sense... "cheap" k20 head... huh... I don't understand.Quote:
Originally Posted by GSi_PSi
i thought u could pick up k20z1 heads pretty cheap aswell. i would go that way aswell, why pull apart a perfectly working long block, wouldnt it make more sense to sell it and buy the head and k24 and have cash left over?, but anyways nice build :)
ive seen the audm k20a2 long blocks go for like 1500 at a time.
I have a K20 long block, but I would prefer to sell this as a whole, instead of just the bottom end, and I'm not interested in the hassle of looking for a K20 head.
Plus, it was $20 to get the head helicoiled, and it'll be done today. Yonas has a head gasket, rocker cover gasket and honda bond in stock, so should be finished this weekend!
Fix puncture left rear.
remove tyre front chassis brace
Bought Skunk2 lowering springs
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dubstein
gonna get shocks to match?
what I did with my integra today:
drove it and enjoyed myself :)
I'm looking for a good set of headers but you wouldn't believe how hard they are to find at a 1k budget right now :/
TODA headers would be mad but out of my price range when new. J's look good but not a lot of good enough reviews to support them. Tri-y's are affordable but apparently perform like crap in mid-range.
No ones selling RMF's in aus for what I can see either :/
Order from US, the rmf rep are around 400-500 shipped
Quite frankly don't have the cash at the moment :/Quote:
Originally Posted by Super-DA9
As much as I love my RMF headers, I'd save up for TODA headers if I were in your decision Tim.
I'd bet you, if you do get RMF, J's Racing, TRI-y etc, give it another year or so and you will want to upgrade again. Just because you will read, TODA is the best.
I'm waiting for my toda headers to compliment my tune more. I know there are other headers out that make more fancy power than toda, but 90% of them you have to pull out your a/c p/s.
Bang for buck, I'd pick RMF all day any day.
took out of for a spin
filled up petrol