***Official What did you do to your Integra today***

[Bludger]

look here
http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...r-is-born!-DC5

[tripleuse]

thanks.

[Indie]

Traralgon is only an hour to an hour and a half from where you live, charlie. It's really not far at all. Jump straight on the Monash freeway, easy.

[Lukey]

i put more jb weld on my lca

[blastnpast]

Cleaned interior, vacuumed etc

[stevo716]

gaped and changed my spark plugs today, cud be placebo effect, but it seems like it idles nicer, my idles always been messy since i changed IM and camed it

[45SET]

I should probably do a build thread...

*UPDATE*

So yesterday (5/11/2011) was d-day for the K20. I reved it out to 8,500RPM for the last time, and it still bought a smile to my face (Almost 5 years on)

I turned up at my friends place (Kurt) at 8am, and we waited for Jason to rock up before we started pulling things part.



The day started by by loosening the hub nut (Which is a 36mm for those playing at home). Now... Kurt has every tool imaginable in his shed (Including a hoist)... but didn't have a 36mm bit, so while Kurt and his dad drained all the liquids from the engine, Jason and I went for a drive to find the bit... the joys of working on cars!

We returned with the bit, and started to try and take off the bolts... simple right... wrong. After breaking two breaker bar in the space of 10 min trying to remove the bolts, Kurt decided he wanted to go buy a new ratchet anyway, so again, went out to buy parts.

He came back with a 600ft/pd ratchet, that removed the bolts in a matter of seconds. With his new toy in hand, when ever a bolt needed removing, Kurt was on the scene!

After this we needed to remove remove the sub frame. Now there are two ways of doing this. One, remove the brake assembly from the sub frame, or remove the callipers from the brakes, and drop the brake assembly with the sub frame. As you can see from the below, we chose the latter.



This process was fairly easy, and we have followed the RSX and TSX manuals for the entire process (Downloadable from the internet). I am retaining power steering and aircon. Aircon has not been removed from the car, and was removed from the K20, and then zip tied to a part of the engine so I don't need to worry about degassing it. As the front and rear engine mounts are connected to the sub frame, the engine was now only on the two side mounts.



Underside of the engine with no sub frame


Next up, we needed to remove the wiring harness. Again, if you follow the manuals (RSX), it's fairly basic, and just make sure there is nothing connected to the engine. Only problem we experienced here was that the knock sensor on the front of the engine broke as we removed it! But upon closer inspection, it had either been broken for a while, or just needed a slight touch to break. As we had a hoist, dropping the engine was fairly basic.



Then came the fun part! The Integra was raised on the hoist as high as it would go, and the K24 was rolled over on the engine stand so it was sitting next to the K20. So to save many headaches, I've decided that I'm going to run all the K20 pulleys (Crank, alternator, air con, power steering and water pump). So these where all removed from the K20 and K24, and swapped. One thing to note, you can't JUST swap the K24 and K20 water pumps, you need to swap over the entire gallery, as the pumps are slightly different (Out by about 2mm).

So, it was 2pm, we had removed the K20 from the car, the K24 was basically finished and almost ready to go in the car. Kurt, Glen, Jason and I were all getting a little excited at the prospect of actually doing a K20-to-K24 swap into a DC5R in 1 day... but... as everyone that has done something like this know, nothing runs smoothly.

Glen started putting the spark plugs into the K24 (As it didn't come with any, which I thought was rather odd, as it still had the coil packs). He spaced the plugs, and went to put the one into cylinder 1, when he said to me "Robi, are you sure these are the right plugs, this doesn't want to go in". I confirmed they were the right plugs, and that 3 people had looked over the part number to confirm it. So he moved onto cylinder 2, and it went in perfectly... as did 3 and 4. He went back to cylinder 1, and tried again... and confirmed our worst fears... the spark plug port had been threaded, and was like that before we even got the engine.

We sat around for about 20 min... all of us rather bummed at the fact that the worst thing that had happened during the entire build to this point was that we snapped an ABS cable while removing the callipers. While we were all sitting around, some options were thrown around:
- Loctight the spark plug into cylinder 1
- Remove the head and have it helicoiled
- Remove the K20 head and put it on the K24

Honestly, option 1 was never really an option. It would have meant that I would still have to remove the head eventually, and it would probably end up costing more in the long run.

Option 3 was considered for about 5 min. Then we realised that I still want to sell the K20 to recoup a little bit of money from the build, and I would still need to buy a new head gasket... so he wasn't going anywhere anyway.

Option 2 was the option that was finally decided on. So removing of the head begun. The TSX manual came in very big use for this process, as you need to remove the head bolts in a particular order, and only do quarter turns.

Here are all the valve train components.


Here is the head. Spark plug port on the left is the sinister port!


Here is the bottom end.


So during the week, the spark plug port is going to get helicoiled, and next weekend we'll put the head back on to the engine and fit it in the car. At the moment the car is sitting on the hoist, with no engine, and no sub frame. The K20 is sitting under the car, and the K24 next to it. It was rather depressing see the car in this state, as I have so much pride in it, and I was hoping to actually drive it home that day (And at 2pm, it looked like it was going to happen).

I'll update the thread next weekend once everything is back together. If anyone has any questions let me know.

Thanks

Robi

[Vvvtec]

Awesome work. Build thread please, I want to see more

[Bludger]

Did the thread strip?

If yes, is it worth helicoil on a perfectly normal port>?

I mean, please point out the benefits, that are not so obvious...

[45SET]

Did the thread strip?

If yes, is it worth helicoil on a perfectly normal port>?

Thread on the spark plug didn't strip, but it wasn't smooth putting it in.

Once we took the head off, we looked at the spark plug port (From the combustion camber side), and it had previously been threaded. I'll tell the workshop it is taken to to helicoil it, but if they think it can just be rethreaded, I'll have them do that.

[GSi_PSi]

Damn that sux dude, have you thought of getting another cheap k20a head and swapping it over?.

[45SET]

Damn that sux dude, have you thought of getting another cheap k20a head and swapping it over?.

Your post doesn't make sense... "cheap" k20 head... huh... I don't understand.