the more you know!
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the more you know!
Would rep if i could.
Hi guys, I am new here. Just wonder where is a gd place to have my ep3 tuned/service in Melbourne/VIC. Thanks very much
RevzoneQuote:
Originally Posted by chiseen
Seeker
Chasers
Modproject
Hi just wondering there is any threads on here about lowering springs? I'm looking at a set of H&R's for a drop of 30mm all round. Does anyone have any thoughts on that?
What are everyone's thoughts on Tein monoflex winding master? Too stiff for an EP3?
Their fine Will I run them..
And they're alright daily? Don't want anything too spine shattering lol
^^ or you could get Tein Super Street.. more than enough for street driving/minimal circuit..
I had a set on my previous car, their are quite comfy and price is cheaper than Mono Flex too..
Well I already have the monoflex, came with the car but not installed...just wanna get an idea of how rough it is, I think the spring rates are quite firm
Hey guys, how would my mate go about getting a new windscreen for his EP3R?
Go into honda and order one? Does anyone know roughly how much it'll cost?
Yeah mate I do, the window plus instal is $350-$450 depending on where you go. Can't remember where I got mineQuote:
Originally Posted by u mad?
wow thats alot cheaper than i was expecting.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackep3
Have a look at the yellowpages for local windscreen businesses. An aftermarket windscreen should cost around 250-300 to replace
Is the genuine EP3R a thinner glass like the DC2R?
just figured that because its not an aussie sold car it might of been harder to source.Quote:
Originally Posted by Benson
Will get him to check it out :)
this was also what we were wondering. I remember reading back a few years ago that the dc2/5r's windscreen replacements were like 900 bucks!Quote:
Originally Posted by EKVTIR-T
Reason being I reckon a local windscreen place would supply an EU3 windscreen which may or may not be thicker/heavier
obrien does supply windscreens for ep3, fyi.
nowwwww rep me ekvtir!
running bc coils
its pretty good for taiwanese made, just got one slight issue and that my tyres are 235/45/17 and now i cant do a proper wheel allignment like front wheels wont get cambered to 0 on the dot... cant lower will scrub heaps so i gotta fork out for some ku36s because broke uni student. oshcit
overall good coils!
good post mateQuote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
Running same coilovers. Only problem is that it doesn't go low enough!Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
what size tyres are you running? if i go lower, will solve my camber issue at the front but scrub more...
215/45/17 with -1.5 camber at the front and -2.1 camber at the rear. Still scrub in the rears under hard cornering but apart from that it's perfect. Could do with a little more low in the rears but the coilover on the passenger side has maxed out.
Man I scrap exhaust mid pipe on stock height, nasty spedhumps...Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
Where are you scrubbing? Camber doesn't really need to be 0 on the dot. Some negative camber may help if your scrubbing on the edge of the guard. Trim the splash guard? if you're game!Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
Haha, my mid pipe is now at least 10-15% flattened!Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
Ppl who did my alignment continued to drive the EP onto the hoist, even though it was scrapping. I even saw them trying to pull the car up by lifting it at the rear guards! Fail!!!
I can get over most large speed humps, sometimes I get a tiny scrape. I steer clear of the small short ones.
Hey guys.
Just got my ep3 mugen engine mounts installed by Dede at Top one auto. My car feels so different now! I can feel the difference in the acceleration its like a new car.
http://4.bp.blogspot.com/_MuP3FWl-ZF...ack-t13471.jpgQuote:
Originally Posted by bluey45
like i saw my left was 0.2 and right 0.08 at the frontQuote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
but my steering pulls to the right even after allignment... like bit more torque steer to fight with. do you have like any aftermarket parts installed for your front like control arms or anything? i was told my wheels too thick width and height so lowering it will scrub but will fix the problem 50/50
The only speed humps I'm afraid of are the little splitted ones. Btw Mike, update your build thread already! What's plans? I get bored at work having nothing to read lol.
Im running the same size wheels as you JOhnO dont have that paroblem, dont think my car is dumped as yours though.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
Hey guys. Have any of you guys changed LCA to f7 planning to do so, but just wondering if its a straight bolt on. Can I use the standard bolts. And what socket can I use to take of the standard bolts.
Yes you'll use the factory bolts. Probs be a 17 mm
how about tyre size perry? mines still on stock height!Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry
Maybe ask them to re-align it if you're not happy with it??? I'm running AKOM inverted rod ends, Todd's tie rods and Whiteline camber bolts, along with the BC BR coilovers. Go a 225/45 or a 215/45 that should help. As previously mentioned, more negative camber won't hurt, you'll most likely need it to tuck the tyre under the guard if you go lower. Trim your splash guard and roll your guards?Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
What width and offset are you running?
Haha, nothing really to update Tim!!! I'm still looking for a new low profile jack, it's either $160-190 for a cheap costco 'Arcan' one. Or a mate of mine can get a steel one at trade price for $280, not sure what brand though.Quote:
Originally Posted by Symphorced
i might try the 225/45 and lower it and get abit more negative if i can at the front, i've got bc br coils too and would i need the inverted rod ends or should be fine putting on 225? im only running 17x8+35 or 38. it was fine on stock suspension but after coils got installed problems started occuring and that front had issues.Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
Depending on how low you go, you don't really need them. They'll help correct the angle of your tie rods, in turn help prolong the life of the rack. I found them to help a lot with the bump steer, I no longer have to fight the steering. I'd buy them solely for that reason.Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
I was able to successfully fit 17x8 +38, with 245/40/17's on the front. But then again, I'm running -2.4ish front camber, rolled guards and removed the splash guards to make it fit.
I'd try lower it and adjust the negative camber first, see if that helps. Before forking out $$$ for the 225's.
Hey guys I think it's time we had another meet up, I was thinkin of pie in the sky?? On old pac, any thoughts??
Sounds great, I've never been there. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackep3
when when when not this Sat plz!!
Sunday would be pretty sweet.
Count me in too.Quote:
Originally Posted by Blackep3
What date?
Ok guys who is free on Sunday? It's the 6th, meet at thornleah maccas say around 10:00am sharp will leave maccas at 10:30 am
Anyone know of anybody selling the kiddracing headers anymore? I can't seem to find them, and the kiddracing website doesn't seem to exist anymore.
only means one thing. bankruptcyQuote:
Originally Posted by Twest
Not sure where to buy in Aus, but the US shop stopped sending to Aus anyway.Quote:
Originally Posted by Twest
Yea, I remember the guy that was selling them vteckid became very unreliable towards the end of last year. Alot of people reporting that they didn't recieve their headers or they came late... sighh.. A good reasonably priced header and i missed out :(Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
Who is coming to the cruise today, off to pie in the sky
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Acura-RSX...item45fc4937f6Quote:
Originally Posted by Twest
try ebay? http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Acura-RSX...item45fc4937f6Quote:
Originally Posted by Twest
does anybody know if the header would fit with the stock jdm catyl ?
I don't think it's bolt-on, I know ben has the kiddracing headers. Any input from someone on that? I know they come with a test pipe so my only reasoning for that would be it doesn't work with the stock cat, unless of course you had it welded on by an exhaust shop.Quote:
Originally Posted by Antv
Correct ^^^ you'll need an aftermarket cat to be welded up where the test pipe is.
The stock cat is a part of the 2-1 section from the stock header. It would be a lot of trouble to make it fit. Sure it could be cut it up to fit onto the Kiddracing item, but why would you bother??? Plus you'd have to cut up your mid pipe section to make it fit & your o2 sensor wiring probably will need to be lengthened/extended to suit.
Only pic I took of the install:
http://i613.photobucket.com/albums/t...g?t=1317641415
Are the gasket sizes common? I don't think mine came with gaskets...
Yep, it is a standard 2.5" 3 hole gasket. I got it from my local Autobarn, probably a tad cheaper if you go to an exhaust shop. The other side you use the doughnut gasket supplied. Pretty sure you can get them from exhaust shops too, in case it didn't come with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by will13
Awesome, cheers
guys im in need of tie rod ends, jdmyard cannot be of any use fml. can someone point me to the right direction? thanks
OEM or aftermarket inverted ones?Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
If the latter, email dc5jdm@yahoo.com from America who makes/distributes the Akom inverted tie rod ends.
inverted tie ends need short ones
Twest: Clear you inbox :thumbsup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Twest
Inbox cleared man! Was pm's in their from 2009 haha.Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
Anybody got better clearer instructions on how to install the front air spoiler/splitter? That’s the rubber strip under the front bumper..
The on-line workshop manuals vague as hell and of poor quality due dodgy scanning!
i thought its just drill new holes and bolt and washer it lol
lolQuote:
Originally Posted by JohnO
NO!
backyard style!
Does that thing come stock? Reverted back to stock lip from Mugen lip and I need to get my hands on one of those.Quote:
Originally Posted by Lukezen27
hey guys.. not an ep3 guy.. but a mate of mine needs your help ep3 gurus!
so he got ingalls camber bolts installed by jax, and they apparently couldnt get more than -0.1 degrees camber on the driver side, the passenger side managed-0.4 degrees.
this is the driver side bolt:
http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/9...160227copy.jpg
did they install it wrong? is the arrow on the bolt head supposed to point the same way as the washer tab to achieve maximum negative camber?
he is a bit hesistant to loosen the bolt and playing around with it as it will mess with the toe settings, wasting the alignment.
so can anyone confirm that the arrow on the bolt head is supposed to point the same way as the washer tab, before he tries to mess with it?
how can it adjust camber - if the actual hole itself isnt flared out to allow for a change in angle ?! Loosening this bolt will not directly affect TOE.
The top bolt has a slight lobe and with rotation pivots the wheels camber angle in or out
http://www.k-series.com/attachment.p...5&d=1293560924
http://www.tougedistribution.com/ima...3Q-EP3-004.jpg
Kk the bolt must be narrower than the hole to accomplish this- GW
With my whiteline camber bolts, the washer tabs sit the same as the ones picture above, the tab faces inwards. From what I saw, when I installed them the washer can only sit at one position to the bolt i.e. the washer locks the bolt. When you spin it, it will spin the bolt/lobe as well.Quote:
Originally Posted by itachi-kun
My initial camber reading measured at -1.08 (camber tops were maxed out), I forgot to tell the guys at Jax I had the camber bolts. They did a second alignment and got -2.4 out of them.
Hey guys,
Recommend a good site for getting brand new original parts . .
I was looking but to some new tweeter covers and interior plastic covers, some rusty screws in engine bay came across this site . . They have everything and yes I mean EVERYTHING, lol . . Worth a look if you looking for genuine stuff :)
http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/
Yep. I have posted it here before.Quote:
Originally Posted by keepitlow
Ordered a few things from them and they're pretty fast shipping.
Just be careful that some parts from UKDM and JDM can have different part numbers such as headlights,ecu, intake/exhaust manifolds.
Yahh Pete, staff there are great.. respond to your questions nice and fast..
I just order some bolts, tweeter cover, plastic covers.. nothing major~ : )
restoration on my interior!
Did they ask for you Vin number, when I asked about some parts they did?
No they didn't ask for VIN. Just as long you have the part number.Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry
The most accurate way to determine part number is through using HONDA EPC Japan. I've got a copy of it and it's all in Japanese. So it's takes a bit of guessing to navigate through the software. But I was able to manage to get the bits exclusive to our JDM model.
It basically has the same exploded view of the parts like as below:
http://autoepc.com.ua/images/HondaJap1.gif
That link is awsome I've been trying to find a parts manual for ages, thats even better. Like a work shop manual and I can either order from there or take the part number into honda and get them to order it :)Quote:
Originally Posted by keepitlow
Pete, do u need a Japanese windows to run that??
lol your inbox is full Perry~ :P
Here's the page for the parts, I'm quite certain its correct! :)
For Pre-facelift Model go here:
http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/ho...hp?mod_01=9511
For Facelift Model go here:
http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/ho...hp?mod_01=9725
Awesome. Thanks Danny. I think I can finally get those fogs.Quote:
Originally Posted by keepitlow