My o2 sensor.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
When I brake, there are squeaky noise, is it time to change brake pads? Only happens when i tap it lightly. When I push it all the way down, no noise, brakes good.
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My o2 sensor.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
When I brake, there are squeaky noise, is it time to change brake pads? Only happens when i tap it lightly. When I push it all the way down, no noise, brakes good.
Hi TonyxTonyQuote:
Originally Posted by TonyxTony
Brake squeal isn't a problem. You probably have upgraded pads which will always squeal a little.
Check how much meat is left on them if you are worried.
there's a trick to stopping the squeakynessQuote:
Originally Posted by TonyxTony
$5?
hahah
Anyone know if DC5 Front and rear brembos bolt up to our EP3's?
I always thought jdm dc5r came with only front brembo's??? to answer your question no it's not a direct fit without the aid of upgrading to s2k rotors which will effect your offset.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
How is that so? Are the rotors not the same on the dc5 as the ep3's?Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry
JDM DC5 has Brembo and disc, pads etc are different.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
So then is it possible to swap JDM DC5 Calipers, discs etc to the EP3?Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
Some more info here about the brembo upgrade: http://www.ozhonda.com/forum/showthr...possibly-EURO&
Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
meh.. Im still lost, so you would need S200 rotors to fit JDM DC5 brembo brakes to fir on an ep3 etc?
If so why not use the standard DC5 rotors as it will not have the clearance issues? And to run s2k rotors and them have to use a low offset to clear the rim seems too much when wanting to keep stockish off set, but then again I think that any wheel with enough clearance would be good for the job?
You are missing the reason why the S2000 rotors are necessary.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
So if Im missing the point why dont you point it out for me?Quote:
Originally Posted by Twest
I thought it was pretty clear in the link I provided the other day?
If you thought JDM Brembo conversion required the whole DC5R driveline, you are sadly mistaken!
It didn't make sense to me why people had to change the entire knuckle, LCA, driveshafts etc. to do this. Then I heard that the problem was simply that the Brembo calipers centre line was some 7.5mm further out than ADM DC5/EP3/FN2/AP1 calipers. If that was all, how hard can it be? I sourced some DC5R Brembos for a decent price, and bolted it up. The standard brake lines and caliper bolts fitted with no hassle at all! and surely enough the ADM DC5/EP3/FN2 rotors were sitting too far inside by 7.5mm. At first I fabricated some 7.5mm spacers and that fitted fine before I realised that S2000 rotors have exactly 7.5mm less offset than ADM DC5/EP3/FN2 rotors.
So out I go to source some cheap S2000 rotors. When they came I trial fitted them on some spare DC5 knuckles and woohoo perfect fit, then I bolted it them up to my FN2, another perfect fit! The only downside to this install is you need quite an agressive offset wheel to clear the Brembo Caliper, I'm using 18*7.5 +30 and 17*8 +38 wheels to clear the caliper.
The main difference between the EP3 rotor and S2K rotor is the hat size. Which again is shown in the link. One is taller EP3, the other is shorter S2K. As the EP3 rotor is taller, it sits back too far to sit in line with the Brembo caliper. By using the S2K rotor, being 7.5mm shorter. It moves it out/forward to sit inline with the Brembo caliper.
The Brembo calipers are a bit wider/bigger, hence you need to either run spacers on the EP3 stockies, or run lower offset wheels to clear the calipers.
Im sorry man i just couldnt get my head around it when I read it, and couldnt understand why the JDM DC5 has the brembos and how it wasnt possible to use the DC5 rotors to keep stockish offsets and just use the DC5 rotors on the ep3 insteadQuote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
I wasn't have a go at you or anything just letting you know. You can keep the stockish offset if you really want to, just means you need to replace the whole driveshaft/hub. Guys are selling the whole kits for $699US on ebay. Check it out.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
All cool man I know you werent having a go at me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Twest
Hmm so $700 for the kit plus another 600 for the calipers, seems that I probably would almost be better off going to project mu brakes and rotors at that price
yeah in most cases OEM parts tends to be close to or as expensive as aftermarket items.
Guys, if anyone is interested I have all the parts u need for front brembo conversion, using your EP3 stockies as well. I know because I did it but have since parted it out because I need money to buy something else. :)
Willing to sell at a good price so PM me if interested. Be assured (and Perry can vouch for me...I hope) they are in very good working condition and you would not be disappointed.
Just repeat, the full conversion is what I am selling and the setup I had had minimal wear on my tyres and offset was just right if you are going to use your stockies like I did.
Package comes with excellent condition jdm dc5 brembos, near new s2000 rotors and minimal dust brake pads, spacers and camber kit.
I myself wanted to keep the oem look and this was the best setup. :)
So let me know! :)
Indeed I can vouch for you dude nice and clean, wish I had the funds Paul =(Quote:
Originally Posted by NightRyder
Anyone see any issues with running the following sizes on a EP3? Apart from being slightly a smaller diameter and circumfrence than OEM specs.
Front: 225/45/16
Rear: 215/45/16
On 16 x 8 +38 all round.
Also, probably a stupid question. But would you guys sacrifice 10mm less width/grip on a semi slick tyre to save 50% on its price?
What issues are u having??Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
No issues really. I was more concerned about running a smaller circumference tyre than normal. Would it have any adverse effects on handling? Would running a slightly taller tyre at the front effect the handling too?
I guess its like saying aus spec dc5r running 16's and jap spec running 17's.
Does anyone else' mid-pipe seem to hang the lowest in their EP3? Mine scrapes alot and when you look under the car you can clearly see the mid pipe. I went to my mechanic to see what he can do about it but told me its already high up near the body and any higher will cause heat and rattling issues. I've got the Apexi N1 exhaust.
This is common in most aftermarket EP3 exhausts. Your mechanic is correct also. Though some people do still tuck the mid pipe.
Anyone have opinions on Nitto Invo tyres?
guys
any ideas where to get oem stickers and badges for the EP3 ?
Quote:
Originally Posted by bennjamin
quick search tells me the part numbers -
PFKL814799 STICKER, R. SIDE (TYPE R) *TYPET1*
PFKL814820 STICKER, L. SIDE (TYPE R) *TYPET1*
PFKL814055 EMBLEM, RR. (TYPE R)
fyi some stickers are made for certain car colours
^you can try this: http://www.jdmconcept.com.au/product/red-honda-badge
Google gave me that lol. As for the 'Type R' side stickers, wouldn't it be the same as the dc5r?
Great minds think alike man! :D I was thinking about this the other day. Considering the US SiR comes with 16" stock I cant see why it would adversely affect handling.Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
Nope, the DC5R ones say 'Integra Type R'.Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Type R sticker and badge maybe sourced from UK but if you want the civic badge with union jack maybe Japan is your best bet.
I know my fd has a spare type r badge for the front grill if u are interested.
Yo RPS.13: Did the cusco front strut bar not fit with the GrupeM airbox?
nop. 100% sure.Quote:
Originally Posted by JDM EP3
personally i reckon the front tower bar is useless. there is actually a brace hidden behind the tower from the factory.
and the Cusco front tower bar is a pain to install. the air con hose is in the way for the driver side. after having one fitted, my conclusion is don't bother. save the $$ for something more useful.
^^^ Thanks Phil. Yes it won't fit. The Cusco bar sits in the path of the gruppe m, the Cusco bar sits very close to the top edge of the firewall. Hence why I've upgraded to the j's racing item.
I wouldn't say it's a pain to install, just there isn't a great deal of room to tighten the nuts on the drivers side. The aircon hose simply needs to be undone, lifted up to fit the brace, then bolted back down.
Was one of the first mods I did to my EP and I actually found it good, it made the steering and front end feel more refined/sharper.
Nice thanks for the info guys, I figured thats why your selling the cusco bar and didnt want to consider it unless it fit with the gruppeM.Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
Any difference between the J's and the Cusco? (unlikely as they are a metal bar, inanimate carbon rod anyone?)
I heard somerwhere Cusco designs bars for Js Racing... Correct me if Im wrong.
Hmm lately my car has been feeling sluggish, like it's lost power... Oil pressure is fine, I checked all hoses and they seem to be fine and tight.
I noticed it when going from a stop to 80km/h it seems like it takes forever (I usually shift at 3k rpm) unless I start hooning it up the revs through the gears. My clutch is fine, tested it out and it still grabs hard. It didn't used to feel like this... maybe i'm just getting used to it lol :/ Sometimes i get tailed from a stop by people behind me and even auto cars next to me were going past me without effort lol
K20s like high RPM manQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
your just used to it lol
I got used to stock power after about half an hour haha
140 ish in about two weeks
Did you check your engine oil level.. make sure its not running low :PQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
oil level is fine, serviced it 1000kms ago, so its still nice and golden haha I guess i'm just starting to crave more power lol
RotexQuote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
what fuel do you guys use? i tried 98 last week, get around 420km a tank. This week trying 95 which is doing around 480km.
power wise it feels the same (i dont hit vtec all the time)
but i heard 98 is cleaner for the engine or is it just bs?
BP 98 onlyQuote:
Originally Posted by TonyxTony
Some one correct me if Im wrong but being that the EP3 is tuned doesnt it need to use 98 only to avoid any issue with the engine and lower octane?Quote:
Originally Posted by TonyxTony
I've mostly used Caltex 98, only cause its usually on the way to where ever i'm heading so its a lil more convenient, and it does fine. I've tried BP but don't really notice the difference... I seldom use Shell V power cause I've heard it's all additives and not true 98.. :S
well thats gotta be a lie. v power is pretty much all i use and i dont notice any difference when i swap to ultimate or any other
Only BP is true 98Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
I believe Caltex 98 use's additives as well
what does it mean true 98?
They mean that the 98 octane rating is achieved from refining of the petrol instead of adding additives to increase octane. TBH I always loved optimax in my car tried caltex bp in the integra and just found shell to be the best power delivery out of the 3Quote:
Originally Posted by mocchi
Would anyone here be willing to part with there rear stock shocks, springs and top hats?
my friend has a set (f & r) of stock sussy (shocks, springs and top mount) off his old car and they are in Brisbane. PM me if you are interested and maybe we can work something out?!Quote:
Originally Posted by SHOGUNOVDDRK
Quote:
Originally Posted by Philip Lee
Champion.
shiiiiiiiiiiii-
I'll pm you from a mates account.
My inbox is waaaaaay tooo full ATM.
Shogun, is it just me but you've sinced moved to Brissy? How is it up there?
^ it's hot up here lol
Ok.. so parts of my center console doesn't light up when i turn my headlights on...
At first, only the rear demister didn't light up, so I took apart my dash and found that my bulb was out. I then plugged everything back in and now all the other things don't light up except the top dial that adjusts where the airflow will come from...
The led works when you press the button to show that its on, the pictures just doesn't illuminate. The fuctions work fine, i can still use the demister, but it just looks really odd at night haha.
I've read that this is a common issue with the ep3, but most of them have half of their gauges not light up too...
Well previously I only had half my odometer lit up, turns out had a faulty bulb and got that replaced now all good.
Did you make sure that when you put it back in there was no loose connections or any split wires?Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
Yeah, All harnesses clicked into its plugs. Strange thing is, I vtec'd last night and then everything was fixed haha maybe it was just craving vtec i guess :\
Bro it's been a while aye?Quote:
Originally Posted by NightRyder
Yeah man, been up here now 2 years :P
It's beautiful, accept for the weather changes we've been having.
What happened to "Beautiful one day, perfect the next!?"...lol :PQuote:
Originally Posted by SHOGUNOVDDRK
It's been crappy down here as well, sun, rain, sun, rain, rain, rain...
Anyone know the closest silver to match the interior door handles in our car? Mine is faded and all
Just take it into any panel beater, they should be able to match it :)Quote:
Originally Posted by UNA91
I had my whole centre console and door handle resprayed factory silver, they just match it as it is...
Hey guys. What type of spacer do I need if I want to put spoon calipers on? 5 or 10mm? I'm going to keep my OEM wheels so I'm not too sure how much clearance I'm going to need.
baller! spoon is quite pricey, why not ap racing? or wilwood?
Hmm spoon looks pretty good. But where would I source ap racing or wilwood?Quote:
Originally Posted by stienerv2
Wilwood will be your cheapest option from the states. Timmy bought his from EBAY.
Going full on with your ep3 hey Kev :)Quote:
Originally Posted by bluey45
Another option is brembo kit . . Lol I like red better!
Timmy pick up his Wilwood kit for less than 1K can't beat that.Quote:
Originally Posted by keepitlow
Are Willwoods any good? I heard mixed views on them.Quote:
Originally Posted by Perry
Hmm. Interesting dilemma. I think i may need a 5 or 10mm spacerQuote:
Originally Posted by Perry
5mm is border line, if your scared of rubbing issues just go 10mm.
Wilwood BBK for less than $1k? Or just the calipers?
Not sure could be jsut calipers even so with other brand rotors it still runs off cheaper than getting spoon new. The good thing about Spoon calipers are you could use alot of different brake pads.
Just wondering, isn't the stock brakes caliper good enough.. I feel its alright with slotted rotor and better pads : )
yeah?Quote:
Originally Posted by keepitlow
How many of you guys with the Gruppe M are using the replacement scuttle panel `cowl` supplied with the kit and who modified their OEM scuttle panel like the ones below:
http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/sh...before-posting
http://type-r-owners.co.uk/forums/sh...itting-help!!!
Not sure if I want to use the Gruppe M one or not. Is it really as bad as people say it is? Vibration wise.
I`m thinking of cutting the OEM one, as it looks neater and by the sounds of it will be less trouble later on.
For a bit there I was scratching my head trying to figure out what he did, but the jist of it, if I am correct was that he cut the original panel to make room for the GruppeM Scoop and allowing it to sit lower and for the purpose of getting an OEM fit with no vibrations?Quote:
Originally Posted by RPS.13
If thats the case I think the OEM solution looks quite good apart from the DIY involved, my only concern is that with so much bog in there it may crack over time.
Try the GruppeM one first I'd say for some time and see how that goes and if it doesnt work out do the mod to the OEM stuff, after seeing this DIY I will try that first before I decide to hack the original cowl.
I've got the GruppeM one. Bit of double sided sticky foam and no rattling. :D